Supercharged

Ouch - glad your ok.... It looks like there is a corrado in the crash pic travelling in the opposite direction...

Yep, I love those wheels...

M8x80

I take it you've read the knowledge base artical? Deffo do gearbox mount and oil, also look at flywheel maybe...

Jesus - I need to get some more of that soon - is that trade price? - last time i paid about £18!!

Here is a better pic of the finished artical...

No worries Mr Geezer...

Black mastick / silicon sealent is the stuff to use (B&Q) and gaffer tape to repair any rips but if it's behond that then VW now sell a roll of foam for about a fiver that will do a whole door and you just have to cut it to shape and seal it on

Yeah cheers - it probably took me less time than yours but you'd done all the ground work for me, the template was excellent and the wiring saved time too... I might add my notes to the KB artical but keep them seperate to yours as cuttting the circuit board of a new part is not something everyone will want to do! - just a shame that motor takes up so much room!

Yep, unfortunatly you need the whole regulator assembly that also comes with a motor - not cheap i'm afraid! Rivets - halfords do a set for about £15 I think...

LOL - well i'm not going to lock this actually as I was about to post a similar thread because I can't find anything to do with part numbers / specifications on here... (I think Dave PM'd me a while ago but i've since deleted the info) I've been playing with the LEDs again recently and all the switches use 3mm ones, for the early sunroof switch I used a CJ70 from maplins which is 12v and I deleted the resister- this one is fine and nice and bright... For the early door switches it seems easier to just cut the leds and solder new ones to them (leaving the resister in place) - I did this but the light is not really bright or dispersed enough... I've got some maplin WL32 and WL34 reds but neither seem to be up to it and I can't decide which one is brighter than the other - it's very hard to tell and the specs on the maplin site are inconsistent... Although they are mostly easy to change, it's tricky to get the postioning right, I also noticed the resister on the sunroof switch is on the neg side and on the window switches they are on the pos side... Perhaps Dave (GradeAFailure) can post a list up please of what parts are best and the difference between high bright and superbright etc... I also wonder if I need wider angled ones for the window switches as the red seems to shine thru the middle and leave the surround pink...? The other thing I did was change the lighter surround to a red (orange) seat one I found in a scrappy but then found the bulb had gone as had my old one, I decided to solder a 5mm red 12V in there (CJ63 - superbright) but this is very dim and you can only just see the difference at night when it is on...

Few things to check... Fuel filter been changed recently? Check battery voltage Check alternator output Change fuel pump relay

mike_g60, also don't rule out a bad tank of shell fuel, I've had 2 'slow' tanks in the last couple of years...

sikaa1, have yo still got vag com - can you post up what fault you are now getting - ie what is says underneath the code

Hello - sorry only just saw this... BTW Kerrinmay - The generic code readers are £9.99 in halfords at the moment but they are faily cack compared to vagcom and not even sure if they report ABS fauls - they also only come with pins not a proper OBD2 plug... sikaa1, try unplugging the abs connectors at the top of the suspension turrets and measureing resistance accross them - compare one side to the other and report back...

NickVR6, not sure what but i'd look into some sort of protected payment method if you can...

I'm liking that BBM fuel rail!!

steveo29, Yeah but you'll find they will do 5x5 ltrs for the same price and you don't need the pump... Depends what is easier but I like to have the containers for the waste oil...

Kongo...!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Map sensor?

Whats actually the problem? - what happens when you pump the pedal?

Yeah it will be fine - your more likely to damage the maf by re-oiling it...

No loctite needed and 20Nm is spot-on - just put a layer of oil round the gasket / windage tray to help it seal... When I did mine I dropped the oil pump to take of the old tray but i think they can just be broken off - I assume the windage tray can then be slid on but if it doesn't go over the pump pickup then just drop the pump down - only 2 bolts... I wrote this that should help... http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... &rcid=1039

They are on all the time but are fairly subtle and they are receessed pointing straight down so don't seem to annoy...

Right, finally got round to doing mine and it's in and working! Just been out in it and i'm very pleased with the results, I managed to mount it the right way round but this was not easy - involved hacking the socket and some of the circuit board on the new part to clear the (early) sunroof motor... after alot of trail and error tho it fits really well and I think this is one of the best custom mods I have done and not felt I would have done it better if I had another go! JMC - Instructions were excellent - would have taken me twice as long without them! A few notes on how I did it and pics below... - I used JMC's template from the KB but the hole ended up being about 2mm closer to the rear of the car I think as I had more clearance with he straight edge. (this also helps to hide the 'lip') - I left the 'legs' in place but had to cut close up to them - I removed the metal bracket and rubbber bushing from the sunroof motor, I replaced with plastic washers - Because I had to cut away the socket I also had no room for the plug, I hardwired onto the connectors and insulated with heatshrink. - I used a PC molex power Y adapter for the above as it had the correct gauge wire and 4 of them in pairs, I then used the plug to do the same at the Corrado side of things,.. - I didn't have to cut the headlining at all - I got the fit very close but noticed something (the sunroof motor) was snagging on the board and putting pressure on it so the buttons would not operate, I found I had to dremel it away on one side near to the LEDs, I did this and it was still too close so had to cut more away and hardwire the LEDs together as I had to cut into the power track (see pics)