Supercharged

Not sure you do to fit the repair...

What was the make??

Yeah - was gonna say that Steve, the Slave will leak into the clutch housing but not sure if the fluid in the master has anywhere to go - inside the car maybe?? Also agree that if the MC is original, it would be a good idea to change it and you'd do the slave too as the new ones have plastic internals and don't fail like the old metal ones - also check the flexi pipe that feeds the slave. Anyway Eric, it could be worse - at least your clutch pedal hasn't failed!! :lol: - I assume Jim told you about that...

I reckon the repair kit may be do-able without taking the card off...?

Maybe but how old is your filter?

Yeah, thats the problem with doing suspension yourself - it will feel awful until its been set up properly... (I take it you have some spring compressors also!) You've got new VAG topmounts, good... you may want to change the rear top mounts also otherwise the shocks will outlast them, if it's a 95 chassis car you will also need the front upper springs plate from an early car. Rear Bumpstops - Either get mk4 ones from VAG (still foam) or Febi ones from GSF (rubber) which you just hacksaw down, I think these will last longer and not disintegrate like the foam... Anything else - You get a load of new bolts with the Koni kit and if you are changing TM's all round you could buy everything else you need (nuts, plates, bolts, washers) to do a straight swap without having a strip down the old units, this will add about £25-£30 to the job...

Sounds a bit expensive for 15's! - I thought they we're about £30 each... The local place I use quoted me £45 all in but thats for 16's - I've got them on the TDI at the moment and I agree Andy, very good all round performance!

LOL - who's Noris? I think he meant No Rice... http://www.no-rice.com/

VW used to always keep these instock (talking 3-5 years ago tho) so worth a look...

Sorry guys, I was talking cack and only thinking about the early ones... must drink more coffee!

Very good on decent roads but it is also quite 'crashy' on bumps on poor road surfaces... depends on what you do most of your driving on but they really come into there own along nice flat but twisty country roads!

Ok, So no power to the Head Unit in the Corrado... First off, did you take an existing stereo out of the corrado to make room for the new one? - if so, did it work? As for power there are 2 feeds, a Perminent Live and a switched live (red and Yellow cables on the look) - have a look at these first and check for the 12V with the ignition. If you can't find a fault you really need to compare the wiring between the 2 cars with a meter...

Looks like im talking sh*t then! :lol: (Sorry!)

Hi there, what I meant about the clocks was that they don't have 'Corrado' written on them as they should do with the red needles...

Get them to check it again - they are about a tenner or just get one from a scrappy (same as Passat or MK3 Polo)

Looking good!! - needs some G60 arches and Big Bumpers tho...

Nicedice, should be the same as the old ones, the spindle taps as you tighten the nut on you you need to get the allignment correct first ideally... I had no probs pushing the caps on but i'd get new ones as they are very cheap from the dealer...

What a load of arse - the clocks have been changed too...

I'd say it sounds like a switch or relay fault...

G12+ will mix ok. G11 and G12 will 'gel' but as RW1 says best just to do a complete flush and refill!

Yeah your right - I think the best finish will be from a bodyshop with a proper lacquer on top...

Get some new plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap for starters...

Just top up with water and do a full change with G12+ before the cold weather kicks in...

You really need to clear the codes and scan again after driving...

Dealer only then really but try VAG parts, OEMPARTS.co.uk and GPC...