Supercharged

Fronts are a little more involved but that is way overpriced! - should be an hour each side labour max plus the parts...

Also allow for new front top mounts and rear bump stops - maybe an extra £40 tops

About 2/3 hours fit plus the geometry set up...

Yep, delete the OE heat exchager and fit a Mocal, I was a 20degree drop in the higher temps!

You need to take the alternator and charger off and the charger bracket, then its just the same as an 8v GTi Make sure you buy the whole pump not just the impeller and a new thermostat and plastic housing with O rings and some G12+ of course...

Way out of date mate plus the VW prices have gone up....

Yeah GSF do them -£35 I think.... You don't need a different FPR with the latest SNS Maps tho...

Vauxhalls are renowned for leaky racks - if you can't see the leaks then it's probably leaking into the gaitors, give them a squeeze and they will 'squelch' if full of fluid....

Never heard of them and the URL doesn't even work! kangaroo, just hang about in the garage and watch them do the work, you'll learn loads and they don't mind giving advice while working...

Its only availably from the dealer so you might as well get them to look it up...

Hmmm - not much luck there, that long number is not a part number apparently, they work on the E number and the digits below or beside it, I went out to the car and wrote evrything down for all the lights then called them back but hardly anything shows up on there system as its all made under license for VW They only sell the early lamps but they are more expensive than VW and the same with the side repeaters... Looks like Bosch is the way to go, If Kev gives me the part number I'll call them up tomorrow....

Cool, I'll ring em now

Don't VW sell special camber adjustment bolts...

Nice one - I was thinking of just ringing Hella too with there part number...

GPC are £85 for the late ones... ETKA list some 'dummy' foglamp units - anyone know what exactly these are...?

Ok, a few people have mentioned that the late fogs are rebuildable but I cannot find any info on where to get the lenses... Hella make the original units for VW but the Haywire reckons you can get a Bosch lense to replace but they are only available in the States... New units are £90 each and I refuse to pay that amount for something that can break so easily...

I think the standard fan switch is 95/102 for stage 1/2

To make it easier to read... ++++++++++++++++++ Hi Guys Thanks to all who attended the RR shoot-out last Sunday, was a good day and a good turnout. First of all on the Subject of intake temps, VR6 engines are very heat sensitive and can loose up to 10bhp between a cool run on the rollers and a hot run. The intake temp figures we put in to our RR software for horsepower correction are as follows.. Start temp set at ambient and end temp about 3-5 degrees higher, this takes into account the intake air temp rise during the power run. Rolling road testing is not carried out in a totally controlled situation to achieve 100% accurate figures, close or very near close is the best we can hope to achieve. Force inducted cars by their nature create much higher intake temps, on these cars we generally monitor the actual temp through the diagnostic port during the run then input that figure into our RR software. Flywheel BHP vs Wheel BHP.. I read the Puma racing coast down losses a few years back (shortly after purchasing our dyno) interesting read and I agree with most of what is written.. BUT Since then I’ve had 3 yrs + dyno experience on VAG cars and this is what I have found. Totally standard Golf 2 16V, VAG say 139bhp Stealth measure nearer 145bhp, we all know VAG engines just get better with age. Totally standard VR6 OBD 1 VAG say 173bhp: Stealth measure under 180bhp (but high 170’s) Totally standard VR6 OBD 2: Stealth measure 185bhp-192 bhp. VW quoted BHP same as OBD1 but you only have to drive one to realise straight away the OBD2 is quicker. Corrado VR6: VAG say 193bhp, Stealth measure 190bhp-195bhp There is always the exception to the rule, I’ve seen some standard cars produce way over standard spec BHP, maybe a Monday morning engine? I know I used to have a Friday afternoon 16V Golf, poo power horrible to drive no matter what I did to it tuning wise. Note: All of the above are Flywheel figures…… The above figures satisfy me that our rollers produce a reasonably accurate flywheel figure when compared to what VAG state, if I did not think that this was the case then I would change it. OK, now down to power at the wheels. I’ve had long drawn out conversations with some customers about this over the years and one guy in particular, he was adamant he was right and the figures I gave him were wrong. (he kept referring to what he read on Puma Racing) His argument was that only a power at the wheels figure was the one which had any real meaning, anything else was crap!! This prompted me to do some testing of my own, and in front of said customer.. Figures I am quoting below are simplified for ease, (mainly because I can’t remember the actuals). You should get the idea though Took a car and carried out power test. Wheel bhp: 100bhp. Transmission loss 40bhp Flywheel figure 140bhp Took same car and put tracking out by 6mm then back on rollers for power test. Wheel BHP 95bhp Transmission loss 45bhp Flywheel figure 140bhp From this my assumption is that no matter how inaccurate a “Rolling Road Flywheel” figure may be, in my opinion it can calculate any discrepancies in the transmission losses therefore showing a repeatable flywheel figure. There are lots of things that can affect losses, Wheels/tyres, brake disc weight, driveshafts, etc.. change any of these and you will affect your power at the wheels bhp, if however measured on our rolling road then your flywheel figure will remain the same but will be calculated differently.. On RR days there is one thing that you all suffer from, that’s high-ish Transmission loss figures.. Why???? Most of you have all your bonnets open trying to get your engines to cool down and get rid of that dreaded heat soak, and why not, everyone wants to see good power from their car.. I then get the car on the rollers bring engine up to a safe temp to carry out power run but your gear oil is stone cold and very thick, just another contributing factor to a lower power at the wheels figure, my dyno measures this though and adds this higher loss to the power measured at the wheels and gives me a repeatable flywheel figure. I’m happy with the way our Dyno works and with the figures it gives me at the flywheel, (my preferred way of measuring) I feel the accuracy is close enough to be comparable with what VAG say their cars do. Like I said I’m happy but I would change it if it were not the case.. Hope this answers some questions for you? Although I’m really crap at explaining things so you’re probably more confused now than before? Sorry to go on Regards Vince

Flush the cooling system with fairy liquid and hot water if posible, then hose cold water through it before filling back up with G12+

Yep, they do or if your a member of ClubGTi you will get 10% anyways

They all bulge out for some reason... ETKA is the dealer parts system

It's listed on ETKA but probaly mostly for the american market, what does the midle bit do - is that a trailor warning light? Looks like it's been replaced at somepoint looking at the screwdriver marks is the photo.

Yeah, deffo his car!

It depends where you go and where you are - thats why I estimated time

If its just 'sloppy' and changes ok then it may just be a missing circlip on the lever...