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About Philly-R6

  • Rank
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
  • Birthday 08/30/1920


  • Location
    South Manchester + Hazel Grove


  • Occupation
    Software Engineer


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  1. So you can visualise it, the parts page is: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Window glasses (oemepc.com) You can see the positioning wedges as item 16. The ebay item gets you items 11, 12, 13, and 14. I think the part number you supplied is item 14 here: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Radiator grille air guide grille (oemepc.com) I've only ever seen these broken, so don't really know how these fit to the three trim parts...
  2. Further to Cressa's post, you can see the part on oemepc (item #9 - 1H0129833): 1991 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Engine Air filter 1.8ltr. 4-cylinder: PG (oemepc.com)
  3. Hi and welcome! The window rattle - you are on to the right chap. Sit tight and I'm sure he will get back to you. The exhaust would probably just need adjusting to clear the rear beam properly. Something you might be able to do on your back with the car in the air (on axle stands - with a mate?). Loosen the exhaust clamps and twist the section so the loop bit goes higher... Can't help you with the gear knob, but see if someone chimes in here, or create a post in the Wanted section? What year and colour is your G60? Phil
  4. Philly-R6

    Stereo connectors

    Pins and colours are on wikipedia: Connectors for car audio - Wikipedia. Don't forget Constant and Accessory power are the wrong way round in the 'rado radio wiring!
  5. Philly-R6

    Stereo connectors

    Those were the car side connectors. These are the radio side: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142427857851
  6. Philly-R6

    Stereo connectors

    You could try these, if you have a proper crimper? High Quality 16 Pin ISO Car Audio Female Terminal Connector Block Kit HIFI Loom | eBay
  7. Bruno, Are you sure it doesn't need the camber setting up with the two bolts on the strut/hub? There is plenty of play there when the two bolts are loose. The other thing that tripped me up was the location of the bottom ball joint - there is a bit of adjustment there too.
  8. VCDS can code the transponders to the immobiliser (if you have the passcode for the immobiliser): Immobilizer 1 - Ross-Tech Wiki (You can read the immobiliser passcode using vag-tacho, if you don't have it) I can do this with you - if you are around Manchester...
  9. I'm sure the micro-switches and harness are connected "inside" the handle mechanism. I've not meddled with the handles other than to replace the lock tumblers to match the key... Is the wiring still in the door - up to the three-way connector? One of the wires is permanent 12v and dabbing one or the other wire locks/unlocks the doors. If that works on both doors, it may be worth investing in C/L door handles?
  10. From memory: I'm sure that connector is for the MFA switch.
  11. If your engine is cranking on the starter motor, but not running - it will be either no spark or no fuel. Whip a spark plug out and does it smell of fuel? While its out can you see it spark? The fuel pump is turned on by the Engine control module, through a relay on the fusebox (position 12). The power is fused (fuse 16 - from memory). When the ignition is first turned on, the fuel pump is pulsed. Note: Checking for 12v across the pump isn't simple in this scenario. When the engine is cranked, the fuel pump is then turned on. You are best using a 12v bulb (or preferably an LED) on wires so you can see power across the fuel pump. If you have spark and the fuel pump wiring seems ok, you could have a stuck fuel pump (hit the underside of the tank and see if you can free it off), or your fuel filter could be blocked? Your factory immobiliser is Immobiliser 1 - which is what you see in VCDS - there is a transponder in the key: Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Where this immobiliser is a problem, the car starts and cuts out after a second or so... Good luck and report back with your findings.
  12. Here is what I have - I'll send you photos directly. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/877/subcategory/182020/part_id/3695293/lang/e#sec_1 Item 1 - 1h0 898 017a (repair kit for guide for steel sliding roof - left front) & 1h0 898 018a (repair kit for guide for steel sliding roof - right front) Item 8 - 1h0 898 014a (guide with cable for steel sliding roof - left and right) Item 12 - 1h0 898 020 (repair kit for water guide plate for steel sliding roof - left rear) & 1h0 898 019 (repair kit for water guide plate for steel sliding roof right rear) Item 17 - 1h0 898 151 (gate guide - left) & 1h0 898 151 (gate guide - right) Apologies to totallyoriginal for hijacking his wanted post.
  13. Code 00285 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Right (G45) This wont cause your lumpy running, but could be caused by a bad sensor or a wiring problem. Be cautious with this as I replaced the sensor on my car with a new one and I still kept getting this error code. I checked the wiring and all seemed ok - I was getting a resistance of 1200 Ohms for the sensor. A few months of headscratching and dithering I bought another sensor with a resistance of 1500 Ohms and all is now well with my ABS system. Code 00525 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Lambda Sensor (G39) It may not necessarily be a faulty sensor, but something else may be wrong and this is a symptom - rather than the cause. Code 00552 Volume air flow (VAF) sensor I can't find much on this code, so probably an intake leak, or could be a wiring problem or a fault sensor?
  14. Hi fla, I have a new set of sunroof cables which I bought from VW many years back. I haven't got round to fixing the sunroof as I have larger problems to sort first! I will loan them to you if it can assist you to make the bits??
  15. Updated link: How to fit / wire / install obd2 - [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)
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