Philly-R6

They should all be the same. Have a look at a2resource.com:Central Electric 2 (a2resource.com)

No, there is no self test feature for the brake system (the ABS does a self test). The brake system lamp on the dash is probably illuminated because the handbrake is applied. With the handbrake off (and brake fluid in the reservoir), the brake warning lamp in the dash is 'off' as you turn the key. The water and oil temperature lamps flash and the alternator light is 'on' until the engine is started. You could also place a paper clip (or a bit of wire) across the pins of the reservoir connector and check the lamp illuminates. Same with the handbrake connector...

I'm not sure that disconnecting the connector from the brake fluid reservoir cap is the same test. With the float inside the reservoir pushing up against the cap, the "switch" in the cap is open circuit. Take the cap off completely and the float drops down the cap switch is closed. If you have a multi-meter, check the cap does switch. There is a button on the top of the cap to test it - but you need long arms or two people... On the base of the handbrake, there is a switch which has either fallen off (simply clips on) or broken. Again use a multi-meter to check the switch.

Hmm interesting. What is the box under the seat? It looks aftermarket as it isn't part of the normal wiring looms...

So you can visualise it, the parts page is: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Window glasses (oemepc.com) You can see the positioning wedges as item 16. The ebay item gets you items 11, 12, 13, and 14. I think the part number you supplied is item 14 here: 1995 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Body Radiator grille air guide grille (oemepc.com) I've only ever seen these broken, so don't really know how these fit to the three trim parts...

Further to Cressa's post, you can see the part on oemepc (item #9 - 1H0129833): 1991 Volkswagen Corrado Europe market: Engine Air filter 1.8ltr. 4-cylinder: PG (oemepc.com)

Hi and welcome! The window rattle - you are on to the right chap. Sit tight and I'm sure he will get back to you. The exhaust would probably just need adjusting to clear the rear beam properly. Something you might be able to do on your back with the car in the air (on axle stands - with a mate?). Loosen the exhaust clamps and twist the section so the loop bit goes higher... Can't help you with the gear knob, but see if someone chimes in here, or create a post in the Wanted section? What year and colour is your G60? Phil

Pins and colours are on wikipedia: Connectors for car audio - Wikipedia. Don't forget Constant and Accessory power are the wrong way round in the 'rado radio wiring!

Those were the car side connectors. These are the radio side: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142427857851

You could try these, if you have a proper crimper? High Quality 16 Pin ISO Car Audio Female Terminal Connector Block Kit HIFI Loom | eBay

Bruno, Are you sure it doesn't need the camber setting up with the two bolts on the strut/hub? There is plenty of play there when the two bolts are loose. The other thing that tripped me up was the location of the bottom ball joint - there is a bit of adjustment there too.

VCDS can code the transponders to the immobiliser (if you have the passcode for the immobiliser): Immobilizer 1 - Ross-Tech Wiki (You can read the immobiliser passcode using vag-tacho, if you don't have it) I can do this with you - if you are around Manchester...

I'm sure the micro-switches and harness are connected "inside" the handle mechanism. I've not meddled with the handles other than to replace the lock tumblers to match the key... Is the wiring still in the door - up to the three-way connector? One of the wires is permanent 12v and dabbing one or the other wire locks/unlocks the doors. If that works on both doors, it may be worth investing in C/L door handles?

From memory: I'm sure that connector is for the MFA switch.

If your engine is cranking on the starter motor, but not running - it will be either no spark or no fuel. Whip a spark plug out and does it smell of fuel? While its out can you see it spark? The fuel pump is turned on by the Engine control module, through a relay on the fusebox (position 12). The power is fused (fuse 16 - from memory). When the ignition is first turned on, the fuel pump is pulsed. Note: Checking for 12v across the pump isn't simple in this scenario. When the engine is cranked, the fuel pump is then turned on. You are best using a 12v bulb (or preferably an LED) on wires so you can see power across the fuel pump. If you have spark and the fuel pump wiring seems ok, you could have a stuck fuel pump (hit the underside of the tank and see if you can free it off), or your fuel filter could be blocked? Your factory immobiliser is Immobiliser 1 - which is what you see in VCDS - there is a transponder in the key: Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) Where this immobiliser is a problem, the car starts and cuts out after a second or so... Good luck and report back with your findings.