dirtytorque

petrol would not normally make it out of the exhaust like that because of the heat of the exhaust.It would more appear as black smoke rather than raw petrol. And on cold starts the car will run slightly rich,this is normal.And it has been very cold recently so maybe that is why it was running slighlty richer than normal.

ah,bit far for me really.If you find yourself near reading etc then just shout.

where exactly r u in ox'shire ?

spend your money on functional things before even thinking about cosmetics. You'll fall out of love quickly with a shiney car that breaks down alot. With the cold weather it would be using a bit more fuel on startup,but it shouldn't be dripping out your exhaust. Are you sure that was fuel?

they're breeding.

I'd say normal rules apply. I'd be looking at ignition components first as you say. When was the last service?

just sounds like it is nearly stalling when your pulling up at junctions etc.. The search will find a few examples of this.

Never ever had any problems bleeding my g60. Have done it serveral times. Normal rules apply.

Unfortunately this is where an Easy Bleed kit fails, for a fluid change you should be putting 500ml out per corner which will go through a few wheels using an easy bleed. You could try connecting an electric air pump to the wheel you are using for the easy bleed as it should keep 30+ PSI in the wheel. There is nothing in the VW workshop manual that states you need to have the ignition on when bleeding ABS, there was only ever one type of ABS fitted to RHD cars but just to see if this works here is the procedure for bleeding the other type of ABS system (it wont hurt to try!) 1. Switch on ignition (running engine) 2. Switch off igntion (fully off) 3. Depress brake pedal 20 times to eliminate pressure in accumulator 4. Connect bleeding appliance to brake fluid reservoir and turn 'on' 5. Fit bleeding hose to front left brake caliper 6. Press brake pedal slowly until fluid flows free of bubbles 7. Bleed front right caliper as described in steps 5 & 6 8. Disconnect bleeding appliance 9. Switch on ignition (running engine) 10. Switch off ignition 11. Connect bleeding hose to rear right caliper 12. Depress brake pedal 20 times to eliminate pressure in accumulator 13. Depress brake pedal and hold 14. Switch on ignition and open bleed nipple of rear right caliper 15. Whilst bleeding press rear brake pressure regulator operating lever towards front of vehicle 16. Continue until fluid is free of bubbles 17. Connect bleeding hose to left rear caliper 18. Repeat steps 9, 10, 12-16 19. Switch off ignition 20. Switch on ignition until ABS pump is no longer running 21. Top up brake fluid reservoir to max mark Do not run the ABS pump for longer than 120 secs, allow a 10 minute cool down if this occurs. Seems like you need 6 pairs of hands for this job though! thnks Yan. I was thinking maybe bleed it with the ignition on. Well I'm going to wait until the thaw b4 bleeding again. I tried reversing and stopping on the driveway today and i think it is a bit better,so i think it is going in the right direction.

well bled at pretty much 30 psi. Manually actuated the brake regulator and saw the flow increase through the clear pipe I'm using.Saw a few bubbles come through too which was encouraging. When I tried the pedal initially it felt good but once I tuned on the ignition I got that long pedal feeling.Didn't try them out because my driveway is full of snow etc but it feels like once the ignition comes on then the pedal feel changes. Does the ABS pump suck in a volume of fluid on turning on the ignition? Maybe it has air in it... :scratch: and yes I bled the MC first. :)

/\/\/\ yeah but the cold is killing batteries. I have had a relatively new one die in the cold.Serves me right for not buying a heavy duty one. Sounds like a flat battery to me.

cool. i think the standard master cylinder should cope too.

so I have jacked my car up as below.. The load valve that you guys refer to seems now to be in the "full load" position as the passenger rear wheel will now be pushed into the wheel arch. The part of the lever that I am poiting at in the pic is fully extended towards the car above. So this should be ready for bleeding now right?

you don't need another engine mate.

What a well put together car.

what an unfortunate sequence of events,the break up,the weather and the engine trouble. Hmm.. Would work let you work on it there for a while? I can understand why maybe all of a sudden it doesn't feel so important but it would be such a shame to brake it. Your so close.All that hard work. Ideally you want somewhere to stash it while you get yourself sorted. I really hope it works out for you.

never heard that from my missus :( i hear it all the time from mine :norty: but is she talking about you or her? :norty:

my gf thought it was too big,She'd been driving couple of years at that point:cuckoo: . Depends how confident a person/driver she is. Maybe people are selling her a bit short. However I don't think it is the best first car. And there is always the risk of falling in love with it etc as above. If you want a corrado wait and get your own one. 8)

They will remain sort after,so when the numbers for a good example start to dwindle then the prices will go up.Good examples already fetch reasonable money.

jammed intermediate/oil pump cogs :confused4: :shrug: Maybe think about dropping the sump and taking the oil pump out if you can't spot anything simple.....

:( oh dear. well your pretty much there now.

i always found that it tended to move during the tensioner tightening. I've lost so much time of my life to timing up my car.doing and then re-doing until i'm happy Must be easier on a VR seeing that it uses chains?!??? Is it snowing there?

well the oil would have to be coming past the pistons or the valves,unless the HG was fubard..

ok,thnks. Pedal is still pooh so i'll take the above on board. 8)