Wullie

too far lol :wave: Not St Monans perchance? Was through that way last month.

You say you refilled the matrix, did you refill the whole system, could simply be an airlock. Just a thought.

Simples, as a certain meerkat would say. Get a Corrado. No point in getting the Priory's number. They won't accept Corrado addicts as it's an incurable condition.

Get a No 99 relay to replace the existing 19 relay. Programme it by switching on the intermitent wipe the switching it of for the required delay them back on again. You can get a relay from older VW's for 50p - £1 in a scrappies.

Glad too see you're back on the road. I felt as if I waiting for a birth while it was in. Pacing up and down and forcing myself not to phone to see what was happening. Daft I know, but.

The C passed it's MOT today, only neded a new front number plate and the brake compensating valve freed off as it was sticky. Hooray. Just wondering what's going to break next.

I made up a tool for the tensioner by getting a scrap piece of steel bar and putting two pop rivets in it at the right spacing. Drill the bar with the proper size bit for the rivets at the same spacing as the holes in the tensioner. Put the rivets in and tighten them till just before they snap off, or feel tight enough, then cut the shank off (the bit that fits in the pop riveters jaws) leaving about half an inch ir so protuding. It's strong enough to get the right tension on the belt, only takes five minutes and saves a couple of quid.

The one that looks like its for pipes is the centre rocker cover seal. It''ll be apparent as soon as you remove the cover. You'll also need the manifold gaskets unless they come off with no damage.

As above but I usually try a "rocking" action back and forth rather than just trying to unscrew it in one go. Grab it with the grips and just move it back and forth till it starts to give. Best of lick with it.

Cut the wallpaper roughly to size and shape. Paste it well and allow to soak to make it supple. Apply a coat of paste to the car and carefully offer up the paper. Use a wallpaper brush to smooth out and trim with a sharp blade. Allow to dry and give a coat of clear varnish. In the mini in the picture I used a strip of chrome tape along the top edge and some checked stuff down the centre of the chrome just to finish it off. It's just like papering a slightly curved wall, and it lasted really well. I think I changed it about fifteen times all in all. See a wallpaper I fancied, buy it, strip the car and repaper. Different car for the weekend.

The Mini was pretty easy, especially just using wallpaper. Vinyl is more difficult and I used slightly soapy water sprayed onto the surface before applying it. The Mini sides are pretty much flat and that makes it easier though an extra set of hands helps. The process is something like this. Really give the area a good clean. I used Cif cream and plenty of water. It's cheap and effective, but keep it away from areas you don't want to have to rewax. Fill a spray bottle with tap water and a couple of drips, no more, of Fairy liquid. Remove the protective backing from the vinyl. As you are removing the vinyl, you want to spray the sticky side lightly with the soapy water solution. Spray the car thoroughly with the soapy water where the vinyl will be applied, then stick the vinyl onto the vehicle. Spray the top surface of the vinyl with water. This provides a lubricant between the vinyl and the squeegee. Now squeegee from the middle outward to take all of the air bubbles, wrinkles and excess water. If the surface has curves use a hair dryer to slowly stretch and work the vinyl around the curves. Best to let the vinyl dry on the car for 24 hours before taking the car for a drive to allow the vinyl to fully adhere to the vehicle. Don't know exaclty how it all works but with a bit of care you get there. The soapy water let's you work the vinyl as it stops it instantly adhering to the paint. As with all these things try it on something you don't need to get a bit of practice

Was raking around some old photos and came across this. Slightly different from vinyl. Take one packet of Solvite wallpaper paste, one roll of wallpaper and a small tin of varnish. Twenty minutes later you had a new car. I think I changed it about a dozen times beforre I got rid of the Mini. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfMiini.JPG[/attachment:2plyuvue] Oh and a dream that nearly came true. Went to a Farm Closure sale in backstate Ontario and bough this Stingray for $200. Left Canada before it was fully restored and sold it for $8000 to a guy in Toronto. Can't find any later pics of it. Stingray.JPG[/attachment:2plyuvue]

JR 's where I take mine though I have the advantage that I live just up the road from him and can almost coast to his door. Hope everything goes well for you

Power steering belt needing adjusted/replaced. Mine made a high pitched screeching sound when turning the wheel when stationary or on full lock. Worse when it was wet

Whereabouts in Refrewshire are you? I'm in Paisley and have a mechanic who is well clued up on Volkswagens and doesn't charge an arm and a leg. He's done a few jobs on my C and I have no complaints except sometimes he's a bit tardy sending out the bill.

Have you tried a different relay? I had an old Polo which did wierd things, horn sounding in time with the indicators occasionally as an example. Turned out to be the relay. 99 relay, £1 from any scrappy, or less if you''ve got baggy pockets.

Or nobody would buy one.

There are currrently some in the For Sale section, might be worth a look.

Especially if R. Stornoway is the jockey.

On the KR 1.8 16v the alternator and steering pump are independent of each other. Looking from underneath the car at the PSP it is surrounded by brackets and bolts in generally confusing array. By poking around you should be able to identify the adjustment bolt, it is on a bracket on the wheel side of the pump and is exposed for it’s full length. It runs through another bolt at right angles to it. There is also a long bolt which iirc is a bit of a bu**er to get at which is the top swivel and two other bolts on the bottom of the pump which need loosening as well. Spray the whole lot with WD40 or the like, have a break, loosen the top swivel and bottom bolts, no need to remove them completely. Loosen the nut and bolt on the adjustment arm and then turn the adjustment bolt to loosen tighten the drive belt. It’s been a long time since I done this and don’t take it as gospel. Things will be tight and reluctant to move but patience will out in the end. PS Check that the belt is loose/worn before starting. If the bottom of the pulley that the belt runs in is shiney it a reasonable sign that the belt is worn out.

If you've just bought them why not take them back and change them?

The little rubber bush on the centre seat runner fell off causing the seat to rock about. Went to scrappies, got on along with relay 99. Total cost 22p No change for a fiver so took my change for the piggy bank. Went home, fitted them and felt real chuffed with my variable speed intermittent wipe. I’m easy pleased. Then discovered the tinny horn had decided not to work and discovered I hadn’t the faintest idea where they hid. After a search on here I discovered they were behind the grill so went to remove it and discovered that it only has two outside clips and a really awkward screw in the centre. Got the grille off and discovered 2 horns. Cleaned up all the contacts, tightened the conectors and no more weedy horn. Nice harmonic blast.

I wonder how the people who originally programmed the chip in the first place are faring. Noy nice to spend a loy of time doing it for someone to rip you off.

Two threaded rods and a flat bar was a common way to secure batteries and I dont see why it shouldn't be satisfactory now. All you need is somewhere secure to screw them into.

Glad to have of somewhat limited assistance. What you have to do now is make up reasons for having two temp gauges! :)