Wullie

Been thawing here over the past couple of days. Keeping my fingers crossed it stays that way. The snowman's head fell off tonight

Front passenger seat, fully back, reclined 50%, kneel in footwell and, well, you should be able to work it out from there, or in as the case may be!

I was told years ago to take of as many hoses as you can get to to allow any presure to be bleed off. Makes a mess when it starts to thaw out of course. It was on a Austin 1300 and allwas well afterwards. Don't know whether taking the hoses off helped or not to be honest.

If you can find me some sample images (themed images) then i can work something up for you, it should be fairly simple now as i can use mine as a template. I had to massacre my old (early) dials to get the marks in the right places, but i didnt need them anyway :lol: What i'll do is remake the whole thing for you but in the exact style used here but ill make it as a vector image so it can be resized etc but i will save it as a pdf (which will be the correct size) so it can just be printed out onto your choice of backing material :) I love the way you say that as if it was just like lighting a cigerette. I'd be footering around for days while strangling the mouse and headbutting the monitor

The little animated guy jumped on it's roof. Kill him quick. Seriously that is really clever, enjoyed it

lol! quite a difference! why anyone would pay that for a few rubber hoses is beyond me! Because they last a long, long time. I replaced my first hose after sixteen years. The GSF replacement lasted two if it was lucky. Needles to say a visit to VW was the next step.

KR engine needs 98 octane or it gets stroppy. If you're using that get the ignition timing checked

Try taking out the plugs and dropping a splash of petrol into each cylinder, then replace the plugs and see what happens. If it's sparking OK it should fire and run for a few seconds. If you're really lucky it might just give it the incentive to keep running.

£120 is a lot of dosh when you've dropped from 36K a year to zip through redundancy and relying on a pension and shit minimum wage working as a domestic in a care home to keep paying the mortgqge on a house you can't sell because of the recession. Horses for courses.

Just had two pints of light ale and paid a taxi £15 to get home. This is a reminder why I don't mind paying for the taxi, even though tonight was trip and a half fares. This should be shown once every couple of hours on all channels.

Watched Tiff throw the Corrado around and thought. "I thought I was near the limit, but shiiit" Need to find some wide open space to see how it does after all these (and mine) years.

Where the blade hinges there are two lobes, one on each side of the casting, that stop the arms from returning and cause the loss of pressure on the screen. If you lift up the wiper you'll see them. Dremel them down, I cut away until the lobe had disappeared, they're alloy by the way, not plastic and you are better taking the whole arm off to do it. Makes a difference.

Bought and fitted a new starter motor. Bump starting down a snowbound cul de sac is ar*epuckering stuff. Still trying to thaw my hands out.

A small boy wrote to Santa Claus: "Dear Santa, Please send me a baby brother." Santa wrote back: "Send me your mother..."

You could say they've got the rare Karmann interior! :scratch:

Check this out, with a bit of luck you may find an easy fix here viewtopic.php?f=23&t=55679

It's because the light are so cr*p you don't actually know if they are on or off anyway.

Not sure what effect the WUR being disconnected will have, but I had a similar problem and cleaning out the ISV sorted it.

Replaced a dodgy connector on one of the temp sensors, adjusted the tailgate lock so you can open it without jumping up and down on it to get it free. Contemplated doing some other wee bits but the pub called out to me about a real ale night.

It's the getting it moving though. Try getting in or out of a tight parking space or even slow speed maneuvering. It feels like the steering wheel is going to break off! Just occurred to me when writing that. As all the assistance is provided at the rack the loading on the column etc is reduced. How long would all the bushes, joints etc last with the extra loads put on them.

A couple of the manifold to downpipe bolts are a pain in the ar*e to reach but can be done with the car raised securely on stands. The manifold to head bolts can be frozen and may require a good soaking in WD40 or suchlike. I always as a matter of course plug up any openings as I strip anything, usually with a greasy rag if it's a "big hole" or whatever I've got kicking around that will fit. I tend to collect all the covers and bungs that are fitted to new parts or are part of the shipping bits on anything that's delivered to the house such as washing machines. The compressible rubber bushes used to stop the drum moving during transit on these are great for plugging the inlet ports on the head!

Back in the dim and distant past, when working on cars with carburettors, I would do as you did and block the exhaust but in addition would disconnect the vaccuum hose drom the distributer and dip it in a can of Redex. The Redex (upper cylinder lubricant) gets sucked into the inlet manifold, gets burned in the cylinder and would cause lots of white smoke which will pour out of your leak. I suppose you could do something similar to make the exhaust smoky.

Got into it, started it, drove to work and thought. "i must get that fixed, and that, oh, and that as well" I love my C

If you read the posts he had the work covered by his insurance - that's what it's for afterall :wink: But how much does that add to everyone else's insurnace? just because insurance quotes are based on how much the repair is inflated"because it is covered by insurance. A never ending circle springs to mind.

If it's a KR they just pull out, there not secured with anything else.