g0ldf1ng3r

ahh if the alarm is recent then yes I would call them. they may be able to tell you how to rule out if it is the immobiliser or not. however, as per seanl82 post I would try putting a known good working battery on it & retry before calling alarm company. as he mentioned, if the current battery is completely dead it wouldn't be able to hold any of the charge being put into it from the jumper has your battery got one of those health window things. small clear covered round hole which IIRC shows as green if it is healthy or black if dying/dead

excellent thank you

hi david I have a similar thing with my drivers window on the valver - could you pls divulge more about the motor windings refurb? is it a DIY or a send it to specialist kind of job? thanks

sorry I must have gotten the fuse location wrong IIRC the immobiliser shares the same fuse as the rear spoiler but I checked here & couldn't see it https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+corrado+fuse+box+diagram&biw=1328&bih=775&tbm=isch&imgil=BAKYcaGqZixa9M%253A%253Bfm6ZxfLsIu42qM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.vwvortex.com%25252Fshowthread.php%25253F3214717-corrado-fuse-box-picture-diagram-with-all-the-numbered-fuses&source=iu&pf=m&fir=BAKYcaGqZixa9M%253A%252Cfm6ZxfLsIu42qM%252C_&dpr=0.9&usg=__pkJigk9uqZ-iJ4NWIuHpjOpY094%3D&ved=0ahUKEwj3ycLC3avKAhVJXRQKHY3ECRQQyjcINQ&ei=QdqYVrelGcm6UY2Jp6AB#imgrc=BAKYcaGqZixa9M%3A&usg=__pkJigk9uqZ-iJ4NWIuHpjOpY094%3D I don't have my Bentley manual to hand sorry EDIT: FYI it does sound like it is immobiliser related though & possibly that it is not getting power to it. reason I say is that when an immobiliser has power & is working, if for example it has an issue with the ignition collar not reading or verifying the key chip, the car will start but then cuts out after a second or two. rather than not start at all hence why I suggested a fuse issue. do you know an auto electrician? or are you able to confirm the immobiliser unit itself is getting power & is earthed correctly etc?

have you checked the fuse for the immobiliser? I think it is position 9 when the gf's old storm wouldn't start it turned out to be the fuse, changed it & bingo all was ok again

ok thanks sean I have done a little of plumber soldering but not wires etc. I will put it on the potential list & then ask Zak nicely if I do change them

good thinking it is easy to spend too much you might be lucky though & have someone from here in your area who has a VAG-com if you check here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?4948-VAG-COM-scanning-amp-help it lists forum users with them & their area if there is no-one local try putting a new thread in the wanted section to ask if someone could help you with a scan in return for some beer tokens or a cuppa & biccies etc

hi m8 just give them a call to ask about an ETA - I have spoken with them quite a few times & they are always helpful...or PM anna on here but phoning probably better

nice, thanks sean I may ask to purchase some of the relays if you get another batch hopefully, if I don't think I can tackle the relay swap myself, I may be able to twist Zak's arm into letting me send him a loom back to swap the parts over do they wires need soldering into the relay housing or are they a kind of push fit? if the latter I think I would be able to handle it lol

lol brilliant m8, well done! absolutely no disrespect meant towards him but I have seen quite a few posts on this forum from users who have had issues with his looms. plus, with only 2 relays on them, they are potentially dangerous in terms of if the relay powering dipped beam fails when you are out at night you will have no lights other than main beam out of interest - were the water proofed relay & fuse housings easily available? it has made me think about if I could disconnect the current relay set up & then wire in the water proof ones - though I have no electrical engineering or wiring type of experience at all so no idea how I would remove / refit said relays

I think it is the drivers side as thought the passenger side has one too it can be accessed ok

ha ha who'd of thought! did you tell him you wanted them to make a 3 relay loom for here? lol

possibly but with the headlight & slam panel in situ it would need a drill bit which is around 6 to 7 inches long so as to physically reach the screw head then once the head is drilled off I don't think you could get the light out without first removing the thread part of the screw - which I don't think you could get to so as to push it upwards & out the hidden screw is in a mother of all awkward access places I was thinking along the lines of if it would be possible to get an tiny angle grinder to put a new slot in the screw head so as can then screw out. im not sure if that would be possible even with the slam panel off but maybe with some persistence & a hack saw blade you could get a slot in it

when I ordered my sill repair panels from them it was about 3-4 weeks I think IIRC heritage get a delivery from them every few weeks but it can then take them a few days to sort it all out & get it shipped to the customer

I had heard that the OEM connectors are difficult to get hold of - I believe that is why KUR2Y looms came with spade connectors however rayne automotive guy seems to have found a supplier as his site actively sells them with OEM connectors

thanks SR_Neale I think it would need to be tackled with the slam panel off so as you can access it from engine side how apart is your front end? if you could take a look I would be grateful I have a feeling I may need to take the VR front off again so as to change the rad fans as they have gotten rather noisey but im going to try some WD on them first to see if they quieten down (ive a fire extinguisher in the boot lol)

it does sound like battery the valver took a bit more starting than usual last weekend. although interior light came on & the time was ok when I got in the car after a couple of failed cranks the time reset to 00:00 fortunately I managed to get it started but the juice in the battery was the last it had I think ailing batteries can cause lots of funny issues also, your radio & headlights all could of worked as the battery had enough voltage to light them up but not enough to turn the starter motor over possibly

they do look tidy m8!! well found brushed chrome VR's too :) oh & thanks as that page gave me inspiration of what to do with my stock VR cams, removed when had 263's. I was thinking book ends or shelf or something but those lamps look mint

sorry, my 'seriously wrong' bit was probably not the best descriptor I should have typed - the need to give throttle when starting points to a definite issue somewhere as it should not need such could just be a sensor or fuel starvation or blockage or similar have you VAG com'd it to see if it throws any error codes?

hello m8 Longlife exhausts produced an awesome result on my VR 2.5" SS from downpipe back with high flow CAT, custom fab'd on the car (which is lowered & took him 7.5 hours to do) pics, video & info on my build thread if you want to see & hear

exactly what the gf's used to do I will contact her & ask if it persisted after she had her aux water pump changed - but then I know the temp sensor was not changed at the same time

bearing in mind the above - the slightly longer turning over before firing up when warm didn't cause any running issues on the gf's storm once it was started. it simply took a few more cranks than my VR

that used to happen on the gf's storm but has never happened on my VR it still did it even after cam sensor, coil pack, magnecor leads, plugs etc also, as per one of my earlier posts, the manual says never to give throttle when starting as can cause problems.....http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?93383-Back-to-my-VR6-again-but&p=1096088#post1096088

I would say that indicates something serious is wrong, or potentially reason I say that is if you read the user manual for the VR6 it states NEVER to press the throttle pedal when starting. this is due to it causing an issue with the fuel mapping & can cause an engine to run terribly rough. I believe it is due to the live fuel mapping on the 12v VR. the same rough running can be caused by a dead, or almost dead, battery as there is not enough voltage for the ECU to retain the fuel mapping info it saves once the engine is turned off. Vince explained this to me when my VR had all its work there as my battery was pretty much kaput I have experienced the above personally when I forgot to tell the paint shop to not apply throttle when starting & to make sure it runs for a good few minutes once started, as it also doesn't like to be started & then shut off very shortly after. when I collected it back it ran log a dog for the first couple of miles. jerking & stuttering etc. I let it warm up for a mile or two & then switched it off, left for a few seconds & restarted. bingo all was good again as such there is no way you should be having to rev the fk out of it or give it gas to get it firing FYI my normal VR starting sound is a kind of chukka, chukka vroom. every time. 2 chucks & off it goes. it is a sound I have grown to very much like on my VR lol the gf's storm however would very often take maybe 6 to 10 chukka's & then fire up when it was warm but again wouldn't require any throttle input to get it going I know that doesn't really give you any technical input but hopefully it will be of use

got one in the VR & one in the valver - both are excellent :D