Wild-Animal

if that does not work then a tow start might be a best try, since its been sitting for so long

While your steering wheel is still on you can look on the underside of the steering wheel between the wheel and the indicator/wiper control stalks, there should be a copper strip that has to make contact with the the brass ring on the back of the steering wheel to allow the horn to operate, if you have had the steering wheel on and of alot it may have been bent so there is no longer any contact. Worth a wee looksy before dismantle

Hey, I popped the cover of the back of my central locking pump when mine was not working, the little plastic tags hold it on, and I could see moisture was sitting on the circuit board I presume that was why mine had stopped working. So I replaced the unit with a second hand unit it could be worth a looksy . Also the foam it was sitting in was damp so I dried it out and wrapped it in a clear polly bag to prevent moisture reappearing.

The cable is connected to the end of the throttle pedal by a small hook onto a rubber bushing, what to do is disconnect the cable in the engine bay so you have plenty slack. remove the interior trim right next to throttle pedal, this will allow you to remove the lower dash, once the lower dash is removed you will be able to squeeze underneith and see the throttle cable and a bit of wiggling the cable should be able to unhook. from there you work remove the cable. Work it free from where it enters the scuttle area , not sure about the rest as you VR6 will be different after that ! "Yes everyone, the cable will stretch. At least two of you seem to be scratching your head over whether a few strands of steel wire will fatigue over time. Ummm........" I think its more to do with the cable chaffing rather than stretching, like I said there is a sharp 90 degree bend and the cable is pulled through the corner and it rubs onto the cable causing the cable to adventurely fray

Hey I stripped down my rear brakes recently and the pins for the carriers I had removed cleaned, resealed and greased up. The the pins with the flat tapers went to the lower of the two carrier holes so if you place the carrier where they should sit, onto the car ,the pin closest to the ground should be the one with the flats, well thats they way there were on my car ! Hope this helps

Hey, it could be the same issue I had, there was a delay in the throttle response. I put it down to the throttle cable. I removed my throttle cable to see if I could put a bit of grease down it, but on closer inspection the cable had started to fray just ever so slightly and it was causing the cable to stick. Mine is a 16v but there is a sharp 90 degree bend just inside the cabin and that was the point were the cable has started to fray. What a differnce once I replaced it ! So if your unsure about ordering a new throttle cable , whip it out first and have a look at the end with the 90 degree bend is where you should find the fraying. The symptoms sound exactly like mine Hope this helps

how about green callipers ?

Blasting anything that has heavy amount of rust is a job for a place that has the proper equipment, I use a heavy grit blaster at work and some of the stuff on my raddo took a while to blast and this is in a steel room with a like deep diving helmet on and a fireman's hose firing the grit out of it, and you have to brace yourself against the grit firing out . It will be worth taking it some where they have these facilities, it will be worth it you get a nice silvery finish. If any one is considering a finish other than Powder coating. As powder coating well it must be put on with no moisture underneath the coating on your blasted surface rusts underneath your powder coating and you wont know for a while! Other option is Zinga , cold galvanisation pure zinc paint works a treat on blasted surface I highly recommend this stuff

Hey, my company do alot of alloy wheel repairs, as a blacksmith a wheel secailist comes to us for T.I.G welding, in all cases its the same as your alloy they crack from the outside edge in. When a new alloy costs £1500 each then a repair is sometimes a nicer choice, as far as I am aware we have not had any problems from the repairs.

fantastic work! Looks like your not hanging about, are you still running the original rear callipers? I have upgraded mine recetly to the MK3 ones with the internal spring, my original ones were causing major problems, due to lack of hand brake effiency for the M.O.T, big differnce now Look forward to more photos!

hey looking good, have you changed the fuel filter recenlty that could be your problem for your stuttering

Hey looking nice(apart from the welding if you can call it a weld), I take it your head thats pitted is beyond skimming?

Hey nice work, I am sure someone on here will give you some advice about you loosing oil, only thing i could say is check your expansion bottle and make sure there are no traces of oil getting into your coolant and check there aren't any visible leaks on the block.

Hey I had this exact same problem, It started like a dream when cold but a nightmare while warm, I put it down to fuelling, as the dizzy rotor arm were all changed the ignition timing was set up bang on, so I decided to change all the injectors. What a difference the car now starts bang on ever time, I reckoned the injectors were leaking. If your in doubt about changing them as they are £35 each just pull one out, have a loo,k mine looked well past there best Hope this helps! [

nice work, I bet you will be loving driving it in this weather!

yeah well it works so thats good, try phoning up some local blacksmiths they will have blasting equipment.

liking the work! Zinga works a treat, it works best on blasted surfaces cold galvanising! looking forward to more photos !

If you have the kit then fair enough, but it might be easier taking it somewhere local to get the pieces blasted, I use a heavy grit blaster at work, and its like the size of a firemans hose and I have blasted the same pieces you have and even it took as while.Let me know how you get on Also once its blasted the surface will be prone to rust even in dampness, so be sure to throw some paint on it straight away!

Hey, thats fantastic the sealed headlight wiring kit, it will be sooooooo worth it , the amount of hastle I have had from my uprated kit due to water killing the fuses or the relays! Also what are you planning on using the sand blaster kit on ? Keep up the good work

yeah that reminds my uncle was wondering why his van was making a funny clunking noise, he checked everything and it turned out later on his front driver side wheel was completely slack, woops Good luck with the m.o.t !

callipers look nice! The axle stands are pretty handy, no pins required! I stripped back my callipers then painted them with red heat temp paint, then you can buy a clear coat that is resistant to brake fluid, you do have to oven bake them so the paint cures, just so the brake fluid does not ruin the paint.Also I hung them by a wire through one of the bolt holes that way you can paint booth sides at once !

oh, wow really liking the door cards, the white sticthing just adds that nice little touch. It will make the car look a lot more modern. Nice one !

if you find out where you get your power steering pipes from please do tell! The dealers is well far to expensive !

your plug looks like it has had better days, it certainly would help changing them.

Well i used power flex bushings on the whole front end of mine, wishbones and anitl roll bar. Just while i had mine in a million pieces thought i would change them Some say its worth sticking to genuine bushings but its up to yourself. I