Wild-Animal

If you pop the relay out check the terminals off the back off it sometime they can be corroded.

Check your relays and check your earths I take it when you dont get a spark from the coil everything else still works, i.e lights and ISV buzzes?

I have a spare bracket if you want it?

Hey for your power steering pump I found that you have to lossen all of the blots that hold the pump on. To move the pump itself. Even if one bolt was still tight it would not budge. Thats what I found with mine anyway. There are a good number of bolts to slacken off

I know rear MK3 golf brakes are a direct fit, The MK3 rear calipers are also a lot better as the spring mechanism for the handbrake is internal unlike the MK2 callipers, which are on the outside of the calliper and are open to the elements. As for your brake balance, that could be to do with your brake compensator, its siuated above your rear axle at your passenger side, this can be adjusted, if you do adjust it the car really has to be on all 4 wheels with the weight of the car on the wheels.

check it could be worth checking your relays

I have always used normal drill bits, that way if they snap then it doesn't matter. Usually when they snap its down to the operators fault. The part thats tricky is sharpening them properly if you have a grinding stone and the ability to sharpen them properly then I would go for low cost ones.

Put me down for 4 rollers please

You could use an old oil drum thats cut in half to use as a container to blast into, but to be honest for hastle its worth it could be easier just to get your collection of bits drop them off aand pick them up later on once they are blasted. I use to use a heavy grit blaster, even that sometimes took a while to remove old paint or heavily rusted pieces and that thing had good bit of kick when you turned the hose on. One thing I would say is once you items are blasted make sure you get some paint on top of the surface pretty quick.

Hey okay rob I will take you up on your offer! PM me of how you want payment Thanks, Calum

Hey looking for a warm up regulator for a 16 valve KR engine preferably in good working order Thanks, Calum

They are serviceable VW do seal kits for them, you could completely pop out the psiton and have a look at the pistons if they are really bad then price up new pistons as well, if its gonna be expensive price up a new set of callipers and see what they would cost, other option is to get a decent set of second hand ones and strip them down and reseal them, that way you might save on haveing to replace the pistons, as I am not sure how much they would cost. If you are replacing the seals then you will have to factor into the price a piston winding tool. It depends on your time also, if you need them ASAP then buying new ones would be alot easier

If your temp gauge is going straight up then check your wire of where it connects to the sensor is connected and MAKE sure its not earthing out as if it is earthing out then the temp dial raises to the top of the gauge. Also if you think it could be sensor is at fault then unplug the wire and see if the gauge still rises. I changed a sensor recenlty I had the wire unlugged but touching the engine block and my dial rose to the top of the gauge as it was earthed out. The sensor is located below your dizzy cap there are 3 wires that go to 3 sensors, the sensors are all the same so you can swap the wires around to see if its a dogy sensor. 2 are for your ISV and 1 is for your temp sensor

Hey looking for a cold start injector for a KR 16 Valve engine Thanks, Calum

It runs perfect once warm, thanks for the heads up about the cold start injector ! I will give a look at once the tail end of the hurrican weather passes, I have unplugged the cold start injector and had seen no affect. Thanks !

Hey, I have a 16 valve KR engine and I am always having to turn the car over for 10 seconds before the car stuttuers to life. Even once it has been started it likes to dip its revs when its cold.The car runs perfectly once warm. I have checked everywhere to see if there is something I have not tried! I have -new lift pump -in line pump -new accumulator -new injectors -fuel mixture has been set up to 2.0% -fuel tank cleaned out -new fuel filter New dizzy-spark plugs-rotor arm New earth cables Battery is fairly new Timing has been checked for the 3rd time Ignition timing has been set up correctly I have swapped the Isv for another but it would not allow the car to start so I swapped it back

Hey if your at the dealers you might be able to get a discount , the last time I was at an Edinburgh branch the guy gave me a discount. He thought I would be a part of a car club. aperently all you have to say the magic words of "I am a member of scottis V.A.G " Bingo it saved me a bundle!

if you have checked your earths, then try even if you can borrow a set of ht leads just to rule them out

Yep thats the best method cut it out, that way its done properly and it will give you piece of mind that you wont need to do it again! plus the wings are off so to it this now will be a lot easier ! If your weldiing a plate in try and weld a small section then give it time to cool down, that way there wont be to much heat, might save your paint on the front of the wing a lttile

from what I have heard its hard to get them off without bending them, would VW do a discount for you at all?

looking very nice, did you stop all the traffic to take that photo ? it looks like your on a motor way and just decided to hop and take a picture!

hmm for your rear brakes you could do the Mk4 conversion, you can pick the callipers up pretty easily from scrappies, reseal them and then you need the different brake lines, but if you get everthing sorted out before hand you could do it to a low cost. The standard rear brakes ,are well a nightmare the spring for the handbrake is on the outside of the callipers, so they are always bad for having problems, as I know first hand. There should be a guide for the MK4 brakes on here.

Also if your throttle responce was not the best, then look into replacing your throttle cable, I noticed someone had one for sale on here, not sure if its still here. The cable frays causing delayed responce

em you can check to make sure your getting a spark, take a park plug out then put it back into the ht lead, earth it out onto an engine compontent, turn the car over and see if your getting a spark SO you tested the injectors, your getting fuel through fine other ideas, your fuel filter that was put on the right way ? If your sure everthing is correct sometimes a bump start is the option, if its been sitting for a while ---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ---------- Oh yeah also make sure there is a I think 3 pin plug bellow the distributer cap make sure thats properly plugged in ! Mine was not and it would not start

nice one, be sure to throw some pitures up for us lot!