captainredeye

It seemed like the switch is sealed in at the factory, one is for sale on eBay so got me thinking that they could be replaced. I have all the wiring in the door but no current, I’m thinking I’m going to have to do some more investigative work with the wiring as the alarm wasn’t reconnected to the locking again for full closure.

Has any one ever replaced or fitted a micro switch to a door handle? Not seen any info from multiple google searches. My handles don’t have them, the central locking was activated using the alarm fob which has now been disconnected and I’m now trying to rewire so that the locking works off the key. on a couple of occasions the car has locked turning the key but I’m assuming this is from a pressure change on the locking pump.

Was thinking this just the other day.

Just found this nugget from 10 years back on the gti forum . Suggest there are different cam part codes but maybe still the same . Have also seen a post from the br6oc that the duration is different . from other sources I was under the impression they are all the same. Last edited: Dec 15, 2010

I have used that glue that dox posted the link to in my van, I found to much in one spot can cause ripples or not enough, it’s hard to get even and I think works best with thicker materials. what I would suggest is bowing the panel slightly then apply the material when the tension comes off The panel will stretch the material slightly and reduce any wrinkles.

I have 3 sets of vr6 cams, after checking all the part numbers they all finish with a B or N depending on which cam, after a little research these part codes relate to 2.8 motors and the 2.9 cams end with A or M, all my blocks I have had are ABV 2.9, so am I looking at the wrong code? have I been unlucky and every single block some how has had a head change with a 2.8 including cams? This would include my car which I have had for 11 years. also are there are changes between euro and American markets? i have some 268 cams so it’s not the end of the world but I’m curious to know if I have been running the wrong cam for over a decade. cheers Ben

Those guide Plates look mighty nice and one of mine is broken, I have cleaned up and plated my old pins just waiting for the springs I ordered, we will just have to wait and see.

Found this site https://www.iltisshop.be/bodywork/bonnet-lock-complete-set-new so may help any one else who is looking. part number 431898550

Yo, I’m looking for a spring that goes on the bonnet guide pins on Either side of the bonnet, one of mine snapped and can’t find any info on the part,

I have a schrick manifold already so that should help matters, I have come across an afp 2.8 complete engine it requires some external parts swapping but from what I understand it’s the same. i was quoted around 300 for a rebore a few years back, you need to find somewhere that has the machinery to bite at an angle

Are the mounting points for the afp block the same as the abv? 4 bolts on the back for the aluminium bracket and I assume the front mount by the starter is the same.

Very light scoring but yet to check if its that time of the month😝 (sorry couldn't resist, spell checkers a T**T), need to get my hands on a gauge to test if they have ovalized.

I had a complete block i bought that had been in storage, rather than strip it i just put it in, some how a brake line connector had fallen into the chamber (through the spark plug hole at a guess)and when i cranked it with the starter to get fuel pressure it ruined the piston. i have started stripping and the whole block could do with an overhaul as the rod bearing look a little tired, a previous owner had also gone to the effort of doing a head gasket but not the tensioners and they have disintegrated so maybe a bit of a blessing in disguise ,if i can get a 2.9 block complete i will just go with that. I would rather stick with the 2.9 as im sure it would niggle at me.

Im having engine woes and debating starting from a fresh, although i would prefer to use a 2.9 block from a purest perspective i have come across a decent 2.8 small block and was wondering if anyone has used all the 2.9 parts i.e ecu, cams, throttle body, manifold, on a 2.8 block and if they have had it dynode or can even tell the difference. i suspect there will still be a small amount of difference as its a smaller displacement, but would the ecu map needed remapping to make adjustments for the displacement change? even though i would be using all the 2.9 parts, just looking for some feed back to make my mind up on what direction to go in. Cheers Ben

The one they have for sale the code ends in AD which says it’s for a sharan so I would of thought the loom lengths will be different, I’m pretty sure I got the last one they had for the Corrado last year. Also £360 is a lot for that loom they were only a 120 a few years ago. There is another loom ending In AA which says it’s for the golf which again the wiring is a little longer, one thing to consider is the looms for sale are they OBD2? The rear engine loom is different by I’m not sure about the injector side loom.

Oh no, within 7 hours you have gone from restoring your corrado to selling it!!!! Whats happened?????

Just stripped my cylinder head and I have some cracked valve guides, I had new ones put in and they had the shoulder on them, now I have ABT 268 cams so I’m guessing this is the issue, Has any one else run high lift cams with shouldered guides and if so what was done to compensate and stop them from being crushed. Would. Have to source none shouldered guides or possibly stick with an original untouched cylinder head.

Just got my self some forst leads from heritage, definitely a lot better quality and solid than the cheap leads you get from euro car parts.

No, all good now got a sensibly priced one from eBay, been trying to reply to people who have offered to sort me out but the site has gone screwy and i can't access most of the content or send messages. Cheers edit: "well this worked"

I’m after the large tube that fits to the throttle body mines cracked, If any one has a spare elbow at a reasonable price give us a shout. Cheers Ben

VW heritage sourced it for me from germany, i think i got the last one which was lucky as i held of for sometime before purchasing it.

My VR is an early 94 so I have found a few variations in parts from late to early cars Be interested to know what cars had the 4 pin and 5pin as I’m sure the MAF has a different number of Terminals depending on the model

Been looking at the loom side of the lambda sensor and i have a 5th wire not connected its part of a sealed rubber casing containing two other wires and 2 other wires that are separate, its 4 pins for the sensor so im unsure about the 5th wire, i have only checked as i have had a ground fault thrown up for the lambda. The red white wire and brown are the separate wires, the white wire has been cut into black on the plug and the black wire from the loom is left cut. Any ideas on what sort of bodge this is? did some lambdas have a 5 pin plug?

Recently replaced and repaired all the wiring in the engine bay and this seems to of cured the issue of the temp readings, i bought a new front engine loom as the old one was seriously knackered.

I bought a Henry Mini last year, little blighter is awesome.