Erny

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2086592 get ya tools n bank card out, n expect everyone to be wondering were you are for awhile this doesn't cover everything, but there's shit loads of syncro conversion build threads online, pour yasen a cuppa n try a few things in google

I've got a few aircon pumps gathering dust in the corner of my garage, never had them on my car so can't contribute a useful reply, but feel free to drop me a pm if you want one cheap

Not tryin to be a funny cu*t, but if you don't trust em for major work why waste your time takin your car there for small jobs? Te sub-contractor sounds honest enough, take his number and take your car to him from now on. See how that goes, end of the day you are his bread an butter, he relys you on your good recomendations

I was waiting for someone to say that, haha, everyone on the road is a potential race ha, were in Rotherham are you from? I'm eastdene/Clifton before I jumped ship to sheff, don't know why I bothered I still spend beat part if my time back in roth

Some people enjoy modifing/converting/spending every avialable hour in the garage, under the car, pulling there hair out, drinkin tea, dippin biscuits with oilly fingers they've just crushed n skinned there knuckles. Almost as must as they do driving there car

Easiest and simplest is to get the old syncro set up from a mk2 g60/rallye or passat b3, you can also get vr6 syncro boxes from german mk3 vr syncros alternativly you can go with the modern haldex system from 24v 4motions/r32s tts etc even using this set up you will possibly need some parts from old syncro systems, boot floor pan etc unless you ho your own way with that or you could use the set up your lookin at on eBay, with alot of work like this guy has done http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19402 non are all that easy, and none are cheap, but don't let that put u off, ied like to go four wheel drive, I'm still geekin up on it, reading as much as possible still not got my head around the best parts list yet

Valver as in 16valve engine, tacho as in rev counter, you can put your speedo cable in the vr6 box. Are you askin if you can use a wiring loom from and ecu from another vr6? Yes with no modifcation if it is an obd1 loom with no distibutor. Plug straight in fine, with the correct relay. Everything you want to know is readily available online, the link I put up on my first post is a real good source of info.

Asking as the engine isn't damaged from the fire it will be fine, and will definatly plug straight into your fuseboard, make sure u get the correct relay in there, as you have a donor corrado the swap should go swimmingly, not sure if g60 clocks are like valver clocks if so your tacho will not read correctly, if your any good with wiring you can connect up to two points in the coilpack to get a correct Reading, my freind did this for me.

I forgot to mention your ginna want the vr relay aswel 108 I think. Can't remember it's been awhile. know very little about gearboxes to be honest pal, alot of that stuff is over my head, I can do simple mechanics, I'm just learning as I go, I'm a plasterer by trade. the vrs gears are realy long which I actually like, but I've not drove a vr with shorter gears to be able to realy comment, ied realy like to tho, I keep seeing mentions of people putting the g60 final drive in there boxes, but realy cannot comment on that at all, the longer gears have chilled me out behind the wheel, but as the acceleration is so smooth I find myself speeding before i know it

They all use the same ce2 fuseboard so the vr6 engine loom will plug straight in were your g60 is. Nice and easy, make sure your get the all the imobiliser bits from around the coloum because some earlier obd1s had them, all obd2 engines had them, u need engine, gearbox, subframe, corrado vr radiator and fans, and corrado top rad hose, exaust manifold, ecu loom at the very least, You can use your running gear from your wishbones and driveshafts outwards, your front cross member is fine and will drop the height of the engine that will help you with bonnet clearance but u will need an uprated mount, I have a solid mk2vr6 mount but it drops the front of mine more than I like it to, you can also use full mk3 vr6 running gear which will give you a wider track and alittle more caster which helps reduce the feel of the engine weight, but your then forced to run five stud hubs which means new wheels. my friend is doin the same swap your talkin about in the next few weeks and were expecting a need to trim alittle off the rear engine mount so he can continue to use the earlier bonnet that u have. This is common practice when doin the same swap in to a mk2 golf, only thing I can't comment on for sure in your case is fueling, 16pump setups are fine but I have no knowledge of g60 pumps. Mk3 pumps are no use to you, probly beat to ge a corrado vr6 pump. mk2vr6.com use that website, pretty much exact same swap, feel free to pm me if your in need of any info.

Ben vrs are a treat, don't worry yourself, a for porting throttle bodies abdul, there's plenty of info n guides online, the corrado 2.9 one barely needs work, as it's a big bore and there's little to no restrictions in there, the 2.8 ones have a huge hump in them and are very differnt The hump is simply there to help increase low down torque, i recently cut open a 2.8 manifoldas they hold less air than 2.9 items, we cut it open, and re-welded a plate over it to make it like a 2.9, and since putting that on my car I noticed a massive loss of lowdown torque, so ied be alittle intrested to know how the 2.8 item reacts with the 2.9 engine, I think the only time people would do this is when they go obd2 so it wouldn't be a fair to say as obd2 managment alters things alittle aswel. If your wanting to tidy your bay alot move your washer bottle n battery to the boot, get a BMW battery cable set up from a scrapyard. Hiding all your wiring isn't the most simple of jobs tho, as you have all the fan over run module, there's also the abs which isn't too attractive too, again it all comes down to what your goin for, my freinds tryin to smooth and hide as much as poss in his vr bay at the moment without compromising any features like most show cars do, Its proving to be keepin him on his toes. Anyways nuff of my yappin, good luck pal, look forward to seeing the results

I've not bought one of the tools yet, there's a few of us with vrs round ere and we all look after each other and try to keep each others car running, halfords etc definatly won't have one, Vw might still be able to get em, we had a plastic one amongst us which was fine(altought I've read few bad comments regarding them) my freind Perksy bought the last one don't know were from, I'll ask if he doesn't comment on ere. As for the coolant pipes I figured there an extra place to gain an airlock esp considering there a similar height to the header seem pointless, I cut the block completly off the throttle bodie the other week. Can ya tell ice not got much work on at the moment, ha

If you don't have the ht lead removal tool simply remove em at the coilpack but take note if where u pulled em from, worth buying the tool tho and keepin it in the boot for when you take it to garages or roadside assistance as people rarely have em, get the bay steam cleaned, give it all a good wipe, and buy a spare cam cover and inlet manifold to paint and polish in ya spare time so u don't have to stop driving, if that's what your hoping to do, you can get a new mk4 header tank nice n clean good upgrade, I port n polished an inlet manifold the othe week and barely notice a difference, (i've a 2.8 in mine) I also ported n polished a spare throttle bodie I had and noticed it picks up alittle better, I got rid of the water hoses to my throttle bodie too as there un-nessacary the heat you get under that bonnet makes it impossible for the throttle bodies to freeze up at all, to do that I used a mk2 water pipe from the bulkhead to the back of the block and cut the hose from the top of my rad at the T and directed it straight to the header. All depends how tidy a bay you want? Weather you want a tidy oem bay or a fancy less is more kinda affair. My cars White so the bay will always look messy,

Could be chains/guides/tensioner, Mine are more noticable at different revs n loads

Mines also the same as kev n rob bs, I was planning on loosening the rear axles to see if I could shuffle it over alittle, I know last time I fitted a subframe there was a fair but if play around the bolts and you should be able to get away with loosening the bolts and moving the subframe across, don't expect it to be easy with an engine sat on it,

Yeh I've had a good read thru your thread, I was Thinkin ied get my mate to weld all around to stiffen it up. Thanks

Yeh the interior Is a let down, but I love the exterior of the car and love the wheels,

Cheers James, I thought theyed be more than 4 spots in there, I'm guessing you did more than 4 spots after, I can see hammering the inner arch up tight to the outter one being a pain,

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/05 ... rrado.aspx this car looks mint, 15x11 on the rear, don't think it would be much fun to drive above 30mph that low tho,he's done a real good job of extending the arches so the 15s don't look too lost in there, I've got 16s on my car and as it's being used as my work van at the moment it's not nearly as low as ied like it, and I still have to avoid speed bumps big time, I drive my car like a prick I could never drive it on 15s I had it on 15s for a day between wheels was a nightmare. I regulary think about goin back to 17s because drive quality is the most important part to me, I personally think corrados drive better than they look it's why I bought mine and can't let it go no matter how much trouble it gives me. do what you want, all depends on what your lookin for. If ya want a car to rag it's not gunna be much fun on 15s if you want it to be slow n low to look good parked up crack on, either way your winning

James what did you do to seperate the two skins? I've not dug the old sealer of yet to see what I'm goin to be workin with, did it require much heat when hammer and dollying? When I did the ones on my mk2 they were a doddle much like corrado fronts I guess, little to no heat just pateince n no fear. I'm a little scared of the rears, it will be one arch a weekend. Start on A Friday night n hopefully be drivin to work Monday morning job done just a sloppy paint patch up

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=23730&hilit=16v+g60 worth a read,

Put my mk4 header on today, only problem I'm having I that altought the ware level light stops flashing when starte up, it doesent flash wen the level is below minimum, am I missing something blatently obvious? I've tried the wire either way around much to no avail, any pointers much appreciated My bad!! It does work but you the water realy is low when it starts flashing, almost empty even

Is it a valver by anychance? There a pain fir airlocks, On ya drive or on ya street, take the header tank cap off, open the heaters to hot, and run the car on the spot, rev it alittle to help warm up faster, let it bubble over, keep squeezing pipes ere and there but be careful as to not burn yaself, untill the fan kicks in, switch the engine off and leave it cool with the header tank cap off. make yasen a cuppa n come back after eastenders, Top up to were u feel nessecary cap on should be good to go, I hope

A mate of mine had a heatwrapped 4branch, not done too many miles wants 100quid for it and would rather collection from Sheffield, but I guess you could arrange courier, I've put it ip on the parts for sale section, pm me if ya want his number passing on

I can't find any pics, I might have some in my email out box from when I sold the doors, if I get chance this week I'll be goin to the scrappy for a new set of Audi handles and getting em on the car asap because previous owner of my car smoothed the passenger handle off, so I'll take loads of pics of the process and parts for ya, I'll keep my eye out for a sprinter vent for ya too. As for keyless entry I'll just get a button on a key fob.