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Everything posted by fendervg
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I think the consensus is that a working ABS system is better than just hydraulic and no ABS is better than no brakes! The Teves 20 is slightly better than 02/04, but mainly because it's more reliable and easier to work on. I've driven Passats and Mk3s with the latter and there is very little improvement over a well set up and refurbished standard VR6 system - the Mk4 and 5 systems are a vast improvement. If you plan on a full resto or strip down, then it makes sense to upgrade if you can get hold of the parts, but don't expect miracles. As I said earlier, I think if you replace or refurbish the master cylinder and make sure that there are no leaks from the servo and piping, a lot of the sponginess we are used to goes away. Problem is that you can't get the master cylinders new any more.
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The 2.0 8v system shouldn't be that bad - it's a more reliable systems than the VR6, which is where most of the trouble lies. Do you have an all in one ABS pump and master cylinder assembly?
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AFAIK - if there is not a trace of the previous ABS system to be seen, i.e it has been removed completely, it will not be a fail. I've heard of passes where just the ABS light has been removed, but wouldn't chance it. Teves 20 is a good bet, but hard to find at this stage. It won't give you much better braking though, just more reliable ABS with easier parts availability. Just replacing or refurbishing the brake master on these cars makes a huge difference as the one that's there will be 20-25 yrs old and the seals will be weeping. There was a long discussion about this on here before, and the consensus was that you will never get a modern brake pedal feel on a Corrado without a lot of work and fabrication to the pedal, cylinder and servo as it's a matter of the mechanical advantage provided by the position of the pedal acting on the cylinder which is different.
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Ok - so you could probably just hook it up to the coil or splice into the RPM signal to get it to work?
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Not sure about the colour - the only one I've seen in a while was on German Ebay a while back, and that was a whole ECU box, a direct drop-in replacement for the factory unit under the rain tray. Here are some pics of the whole shebang - and they show a black control box, but my understanding was that the ECU had to be swapped out as well. https://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7040123-FS-VW-Motorsport-(VWMS)-VSR-Intake-Manifold-components Also, the first post here ins a translation of the original German write-up when the VSR was being marketed - note that it refers too an additional output wire from the new ECU to send a switch control signal to the black box. Yhis is what I've seen in the past, whereas the Schrick is just a standalone control box hooked up to an RPM signal from the coil. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?25285-VSR-Explained
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VSR requires a dedicated replacement OEM ECU that would normally come along with the manifold. This has a different map and a control wire on it. There should also be a green vacuum reservoir and hoses with t-piece, this operates the flap inside the manifold. All other work is exactly the same as removing and refitting the standard intake manifold, same gaskets, so you can either reuse your old ones or fit new ones. Everything else will match up and you will even be able to access your spark plugs, unlike on the Schrick VGI. My advice is to send me the VSR and I will show you how to fit it on my VR6! ;) Seriously, though - Vince at Stealth knows these inside out and should be able ot help, even if you are missing the ECU. I have seen VSRs being run wit the Schrick control box and mild remap.
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Apparently Hella don't own the license for the later lights, they were a once-off for VW, so they can't go and remake them without VW approval or at their request - god knows where the designs and moulds are anyway.
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I think Chris had two types made - one was mineral glass, and the other acrylic plastic. Laat I heard he was also working on a new improved version. My opinion is that if we are just talking about re-manufacturing the lenses, then that is already well covered and there are options available - unless the plan would be to use hardened/tempered glass so that they wouldn't crack in the first place. If on the other hand we could get the whole unit with fog light remade by Classic Parts or someone else, then that would be worth shooting for.
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Lenses for the late fogs were never available separately - they were sold as part of the whole fog/indicator assembly that sits in the bumper cavity - pretty sure that was more than £50. There are at least three different sources of re-manufactured lenses that you would have to fit yourself to an old unit, and these come in at 100-200 for the pair. For a whole new unit I would be happy to pay up to 250, less if possible. All the remade lenses tend to have some issues such as the markings and light pattern are incorrect or they can only be used with LED bulbs, but let's be careful not to duplicate effort here by repeating somebody else's mistakes and effort. If potential buyers are just interested in replacement glass it might be better to see if we can organise a group buy to bring down the price.
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Good to hear - you won't regret it. You'll be looking to buy all your parts back now!
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Available new from VW Classic Parts and VW Heritage, and a member on here used to sell a Chinese version that had an LED bulb instead of a filament, so would not heat up that much. They all run a bit hot, due to the centre bulb being on all the time, and because without a separate headlight loom they carry a lot of current. They can also fail in a nasty way when the switch toggle tracks come out of alignment and melt one of the earth wires, posing a fire risk. I'd say replace yours as soon as you can.
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Sounds like there could be an air lock in the system that then clears - I'd have a good look at the pipes around the fuel filterand change the filter if it hasn't been done recently. Is there any smell of fuel during this?
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Awesome Mix #1 (and always keep a pencil handy!) Also found this https://www.cabrio-aigner.de/radios/radios-d/gamma-d/
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Ha ha - yeah, when those tape mechanisms go wrong all bets are off! I once had to remove and open a unit up to get a jammed cassette out - that was fun, not.
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I think most went for CD changers as an upgrade at the time, as there were still relatively few reliable single DIN CD players available. VW did have a Gamma CD (extremely rare) that only worked with the Aktiv powered speaker system as the head unit had no end stage amp in it (probably for space reasons). I think UK cars never came with factory head units installed, most were specced by the local dealers, hence why you would see a lot of Sony and Panasonic as well as Blaupunkt units in UK registered cars.
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Fleabay, as always: https://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Sony+XR5509+&_sacat=0 IMHO though the VW Gamma 4 head unit which was original equipment in Germany looks much better in a late car - quite a high spec unit for it's time green illumination, 4x25w, RDS, speed sensitive volume, telephone mute, anti-theft LED, and CD changer control. The are getting expensive though as the retro/restoration market has picked up. German ebay is the best source and make sure you get the code.
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Was just over 1k, but that was 2004 with a group discount - so 1300 was a fair asking I reckon. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?5556-Was-Schrick-VGI-GB-now-show-us-yours!&highlight=schrick
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Corrado fogs will be either early or late - the late ones that are integrated into the fog/indicator housing are NLA, and can't be had for love nor money - there's a guy in the states looking for over $1200 for a set of new old stock ones. Second hand they can fetch 250-300 a side if not cracked, which is the most common reason for a replacement in the first place. A lot of people have had some luck in replacing the lenses only - rakes a bit of work, but worth looking into. Plenty of info on here and the rest of the web, and there are even guys selling re-manufactured glass and refurbished units, but they are not cheap. Early seperate fogs can still be had new if you look hard enough.
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There was a group buy for them on here a few years ago, does anyone remember what they were new at the time?
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For Golf or do you mean late Corrado?
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Ha Ha - that made me smile. I think we've all been through something similar, I know I have: 3 kids ages 3 to 8, rain, rush hour traffic on a 3 lane orbital motorway, the sweet smell coolant seeping gently out of the heater matrix and some form of dodgy hot start issue where the car might suddenly cut out and then not start again for 30 minutes. Ah, Corrados - don't you just love them. You'd forgive nearly anything when the VR is on song over 4500 RPM!
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for sale VR6 in good condition
fendervg replied to Alex_G60_Fanatic's topic in Cars for Sale [Corrado]
Lovely colour - glws. -
Good points Dox - the codes can be pretty basic and are not always definitive, especially the valve related ones, which are rarely the valve but more likely to be with the PCB or wiring loom. I'd check sensors, rings, pedal position sensor, loom, ECU and pump unit - in that order. I'm not really sure what BBA-Reman can actually do to repair them, apart from testing and cleaning. When I was dealing with them, they first sourced a unit that turned out to be unrepairable, and I then bought another and sent it to them for testing and it checked out ok. In other cases I've heard they can clean out the valves to free them up, and sometimes carry out some solder repairs on the PCB, although in at least one case they simply swapped it out with one from another unit.
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35761411 looks to be different and has the ABS pump unit integrated with the master cylinder and reservoir. RHD drive VR's have a 6 outlet pump unit located behind the coolant bottle, and a specific master cylinder with two outlets.
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G60/16V user a different pump setup - the one we have here is RHD VR6 specific, Teves04. I've never seen any codes mentioning the diff lock valves , but I had outlet valve error codes on mine when it was faulty and the only thing that fixed it was a replacement pump. The real issue though is that you have no way of knowing if any second-hand unit is ok without testing it.