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ABS pumps for VR6 have been extensively discussed, and are sadly hard to source in good working order. What do you believe is wrong with it? Have you pulled the fault codes from the ABS control unit? Only asking this as there are plenty of other parts that can fail in the system that are cheaper. If you've just won the lottery, VW are still selling them new for just over £1000. Other options are a second hand one, but many of those are also fauly, or some have had luck getting a company called BBA-Reman to chekc them over and refurb. however the feedback seems to be mixed. This will still cost you a couple of hundred with no guarantee that the donor unit is repairable. Some have opened them up and noticed that bad solder joints on the PCB on the bottom could be causing the problems and have had these repaired. Or, ever more popular, is to do an ABS delete, or upgrade to a later more modern system from the Mk3/Passat, but this is not a two spanner job and you need to source the parts. Hope this helps a little with the options, you might get offered a part on here, or other helpful info.

What type of engine C is it for as they are different - G60/16v/VR?

Are the solenoids and hoses new or did they come off donor cars? Cheers.

Hey Keyo - where exactly do the solenoid valve and hoses go? Interested, but can't seem to find an equivalent on my car unless it's under the airbox - nothing deleted as far as I know. I did read that the pcv system was different on later cars though.

Stick me down for a set as well please. Classic Parts should know that the potential market is a lot bigger than just the forum and the UK as these parts are not RHD specific.

Actually it's not that bad as we don't use salt on the roads in winter, just grit if anything. Most older cars get neglected though. Yeah, Kev was one of the core users on here, part of a group of which most have left - he sold up a few years back for a MkV R32 I think - over the years he did pretty much everything to his Corrado, from super charging, VRT and R32 conversions and always had something helpful, funny or controversial to say. He still checks in from time to time.

No worries - was only joking! Used to have a lovely 3 door Atlas Grey big bumper 8v and wish I had held on to it - was an original Irish market car as well, which is a hard thing to find.

Get a cover or a carcoon - or, seeing as the Gold panels are that cheap, swapsies and leave that outside! You know you want to...

It's two on the heater unit itself, and one for the air duct from the blower motor (this doesn't necessarily have to come out if you take the dash out, but with dash in you'll need to move it).

Stay away from Topran, especially for the heater matrix as you won't want to get in there again in a hurry! Had bad reports about Topran oil coolers too - Valeo and Hella are the best if you can find them.

There's definitely two, kind of one above the other, and another holding on the duct from the blower - trying to find a pic for you but no joy. Have a look at these links as well: https://www.vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19713 https://sites.google.com/site/stoyneff/engine-general/heater-core-replacement-on-a-b3

It's not a difficult job in and of itself, but time consuming because there is so much that needs to be moved to get access, and the potential for breaking hard to replace parts. It's a lot easier on a Mk2 because the centre console just lifts out. When I did it took me 2 days, but with practice I've heard it can be done in about four hours. Mine was made more difficult because one of the shoulder nuts in the bulkhead was spinning in place and it took a long time to finally figure out a way of removing it.

Ah, shame you are moving on the C - best of luck with the sale and hang on in there, you'll be back with another one soon I'd say.

You can do the heater matrix with the main dash frame in the car - if you want remove it, there are some screws (x2 I think) on the engine side of the bulkhead. Before you do anything, make sure that you can undo the two shouldered bolt/nuts that hold the heater matrix to the bulkhead and are fastened on the engine side. Then you need to remove glove box (pain in the back side unless it's been out before or modified), a metal bracket to the right of the glovebox, all lover trim panels left and right, air vents and housing, radio, ashtray, heater control panel, top vent tubing and clock fascia and vent there. Then the ducting that runs from the blower motor to the right of the matrix. Also check, and consider replacing the felt lining on the heater box flaps and the control cables - oh and don't buy a cheap ****ty matrix - you won't want to do this job again in a hurry. But really, google is your friend - there's plenty of info and how-to's out there (a search on here is useful too) and it's essentially the same job as on a Mk2/3, except access is more tricky.

Not today, but yesterday - fitted a 1A in line cartridge fuse to the illumination earth wire from the headlight switch to prevent a faulty switch from starting a dash fire. Nice to have peace of mind now, and a really easy fix - would be a shame to have the Corrado to be lost to a preventable fire after all the blood, sweat and tears.

Good news that yo got it sorted - there's a sliding plastic clip along the back of the fusebox rail that is meant to stop the plugs from falling out. It's often not pushed back into place.

The pin-out should be on a sticker on the radio - but if there's no voltage on the ignition wire, then that's most likely the issue.

I'm confused now - what is meant by "safe" here? Is that not a battery earth? Any VW radios I've seen only have a permanent 12v+ feed from the battery, and the same from the switched ignition (s-cont) when key is turned to position 1. This turns the radio on and off. There is no third 12v wire. It sounds like you might have a faulty connection back to the ignition switch - and the fact that you have a lot of tape there looks like maybe an alarm installer was at it. You'll need to trace that wire all the way back and test. Alternatively, you can fool the radio into thinking it's alive by splitting the battery feed into two and connecting the other to the s-cont on the radio - you can still turn it off using the power button.

As far as I know the seals are attached to the glass and the whole window unit is bonded in to the panel aperture - they can be cut out very carefully, but I would imagine that they would only really fit back into to the original panel as there will be some residue left.

Yeah, hope it works out - I think with car restoration, the rule is that you can repair anything if you have enough money and time as long as the core chassis parts are not rotten through. The problem is that a lot of the car resto shows make it look easy and straightforward but don't really go into the cost, labour and skill required to do it properly.

Rear arches always stayed the same over the production run = according to ETKA the inner rear panel changed at the early/late chassis# break. Yeah those classic panels are not cheap, but considering you get the whole rear quarter, it's not that bad - one problem will be removing and refitting the rear windows as well.

My thoughts exactly!

Wow - some car at a great price! Good luck with sale.

Just over 10 years now - June 2009.

Sometimes the distance between the striker and the latch it has to hit to operate the lock mechanism is to much - this can get worse over time. I've had some success in the past putting a cap or cover over the end of the striker to extend it slightly.