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lol: Some horrible looking plastic surgery items on that site - good for hiding rust though.

@dragon green: that's some collection of indicators there - nearly one for every day of the week! I suppose the Inpros look reasonably close, but I think it would depend on the condition of the head light lenses - didn't Inpro do headlamps as well?

Interesting - the angle on the fogs looks all wrong though, like they are recessed too deeply. Better than nothing maybe.

Yes, he does very nice reproduction glass/plastic lenses and is currently working on a new version - but I think at the moment you can only use LED bulbs in them for heat reasons - but the feedback has been very good. Have you ever tried cracking and removing the old lens? Not a nice job. I'd happily pay 200-250 euro a side for a new OEM set, but not the same for second hand cracked items that you see come up very often. I think it was a poor design decision to build the fog light into the indicator housing for the later cars.

You need to source a time machine first!

Checked my old sensor there on a 93 dizzy VR and the plug on the probe is black and rounded at the edges, marked "44" on the connector and has four wires, in a 3+1 arrangement. I'll try and grab a pic and part# for you later - probably won't get a chance to check the connector on the car though.

Yes, I believe that there are at least two different plug variations on the VR and I've seen some cars with the wiring changed to take a different plug. I have a spare one that came off my car at home, so I can take a look later to check.

Don't know about the difference between the two, but the blue ones were still available from VW until very recently so worth a try and there are plenty up on fleabay. Maybe the black ones are 3D print jobbies - and in that case it really depends on the material that is used, though I would have thought injection moulding to be the best way to make them.

Yeah, I'm absolutely not an expert on this - I've only ever run standard wheels and prefer the looks and handling they give, but each to their own, so I'm sure with the correct mix of spacers and mods you can get it to work. I'll get me coat so ;) Not sure what is going on with the thread though, as the original post I replied to went AWOL,

I'd say get some more reasonably proportioned 16s - stock wheels are ET43 offset. Do you have a big brake conversion or are they standard 280/288s?

I used to swear by the Pirelli P5/6xxx series - had them on my Mk2 GTI, Audi Quattro and 5 years on the Corrado, excellent grip and feel in wet and dry, but you can't get them any more in 205/50/15 sadly. Currently running Michelin PS3 slightly stretched at 195/50/15, but have to say I'm not overly impressed. I'll be considering both the Hankook and Uniroyal Rainsports when it next comes time to change, but the selection in the original size is getting very slim. I guess that's another reason a lot of owners are putting 16 inch rims on their cars as there is a much bigger choice at decent prices in that size.

Could be a Storm-a-like? Easy to do with the green and beige cars as that combination was available anyway. Only way to find out is to check the VIN with VW.

The rollers might not fix a loose window, but are a wise check and easily replaced. Clean and grease the rails as well if you can. There is a rectangular metal runner/guide bracket on the B pillar side of the window mech that is supposed to be bonded to the bottom of the glass and runs up and down a vertical rail as the window opens and closes - if the glass was ever replaced following a break in then it's possible that this was not bonded back on as it just sits at the bottom of the rail - this will cause a lot of rattling and a loose window. It's easy enough to locate if you but your hand behind the skin on the right, locate the rail, and check bottom (loose) or top (attached to glass). Some have just fixed it in place at the bottom of the rail, as it's well out of the way, just to fix rattling, but the secure the glass properly it need to be bonded back on.

That's great news to hear - good to be back up and running I bet.

Fair enough - I would have thought about 200-250 for the four rims on their own. I never consider tyres when buying a set of rims and would rather buy without as you have absolutely no idea of their provenance or real condition - there's a lot more that can go wrong apart from thread depth. Better to put a set of new ones from a reputable source on yourself - they'll also weigh less for shipping!

Not sure - the listing mentions Mk3 Golf, so that would make you think they would fit. They look nice, the lip is a bit wide but I still like them over the splits. The asking price is another matter though!

They are a nice wheel, but I personally don't like bolts on wheel rims, would rather a cleaner look - if they came as a one piece I'd prefer them. What is the attraction with split rims apart from the cosmetics anyway?

A few years back I had fairly similar issues on my VR after driving up a flooded motorway off ramp - ended up being related to the wiring to the cat being wet and corroded - there's the 02/Lambda sensor, and I think there's a temp sensor too, so worth getting a look underneath and checking it out.

Not as rare as the 2.0 8 valve, if you exclude special editions.

I had a 1990 8v GTI 3-door, with the PB Digifant engine for over 10 years, and loved it - it was a cracking car to drive, and the low down torque made it perfect for a daily. It didn't have power steering, which was a but of a pain, but I retrofitted that a couple of years before I sold it on. The VR is a completely different car, if based on the same chassis - it feels much more modern and comfortable and more planted. It has wide track for a reason, so a good PAS set up and wide track conversion would be needed to get the most out of a Mk2 running a VR6 - you can always fit G60 arches to make it look a bit better. The Corrado is much, much easier to drive at speed and on long journeys (a true GT car), both both handle really well on back roads and twistys. Having worked on both and had the interior out of both, the build quality and attention to detail was definitely better on the Corrado, but it was built in a dedicated factory by Karmann as a premium car. Mk2s were built in lots of different factories and probably vary more in quality, but then some Corrados do as well. Not sure, but maybe all GTIs were built in Wolfsburg? If it was me I'd stick with the 8v or 16v in the Golf to keep the original character of the cars.

Ah lads, crazy money! Much as I would love one, a Schrick is worth no more than £1000 (there was a group buy on them on here, and the I think they were well less than that), and a VSR maybe £1500 - and that should be with all the ancillaries present and fully working order. A lot of the ones you see for sale even when they do come up don't have everything with them and can cost a fair bit to put right. Unobtainium they may appear to be, but remember that they actually do very little to the VR6 performance in practice considering how much they cost for the gains - so hard to justify the outlay at these kinds of prices. There's a smell of scene tax about it really.

Good stuff - you have me wanting to go dig those old JBLs out of storage and change mine out now.

Problem is that if you don't use it regularly now and leave it, it will definitely fail the first time it's operated after a couple of years.

Interesting - what a pain to be ripped off like that. I thought there might have been other tell-tale differences as well? I suppose there were not part number stickers or other markings on it anymore.

Ha ha, understood. Just unplug them and be done with it! But looks like both Alpine and JBL should have decent replacements for the rears.