fendervg

The standard BKR5E or BKR5EKU work just as well and are easily available. Those Bosch ones were recommended by Stealth I believe, but I haven't heard any reports of them in action yet. Maybe someone else on here has tried them? Thee's not much point in putting long life super spark++++ etc. in a VR, just change them every year or 10-15K and you'll be grand.

That's a good shout - it might be losing it's memory if there is no power to it with ignition off, hence it won't know which song was playing last.

Hah - I think I'll be paying that site a visit! After doing some work on my fuel pump the other day I noticed that a 50cm length of line I put in about 2 years ago for a non-return valve was all cracked and perished, in some places right down to the inner braiding - you could even just peel bits of the outer housing off. Bought in a reputable motor factors with SAE/DIN ratings, but was only R6/7 - so be warned. Seems strange, because there is no heat or contamination in that area.

Does it need to build an index of the mp3 files on the stick in order to keep resume in memory, or maybe there's some special formatting required?

Yeah, not always the case as storage space is limited and expensive.

The problem is that the data can only be recovered if it is actually still there - deleted data will still be there unless actually overwritten, but the methods used to retrieve it are intrusive and can require systems to be shut down and will take a long time. Hacking into systems and retrieving sensitive stuff is a slightly different proposition as the target data is definitely there as it is needed - it's just a question of how well it is protected. Do you know if the mail was just from one sender to one recipient, or were there multiple recipients? If so, each should have a copy, so that might be worth trying. Hopefully this gets resolved for you soon.

It's attached to the ABS pump unit, but I'm not sure if it's actually part of it or just mounted on it - it's the same on mine. The actual ABS loom is the oval connector you can see at the bottom underneath the pump unit, whereas that's a two-pin connector. Can't find any reference to it in ETKA, but the RHD ABS system isn't very well documented - sorry I can't be more help - I'll take a quick look at mine in the morning.

Yeah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news - especially after paying lots of Corrado tax - but better not to skimp on these as they tend to prevent annoying rattles and the exhaust dropping without warning!

I think I remember these were reckoned to be probably the best all round saloon car available at the time in terms of reliability, build quality and driving experience - well wear.

If mail is being archived it will have been copied to the archive as it traversed the server (i.e. being sent), so it will still be there even if the recipient and the sender have deleted it from their inbox and sent item folders. How long it is then kept in the archive will be a matter of IT/HR policy. The archive may just keep a copy of the message text and the names and details of any attachments, but not neccesarily the attachments themselves, for reasons of space. If Exchange and Office 365 have auditing enabled, you may be able to see when a message was deleted there. If a mail has been deleted it will stay in the trash folder until that is emptied, even after that there are forensic ways to recover these from the server or a local Outlook .pst file. This is the point at which you would involve a specialist and your IT department and it may get expensive. If there is any whiff of things getting legal, don't mess around trying recovery yourself but get IT. HR and some experts involved. I've been down this road a few times professionally and you would be surprised at what can be recovered and reconstructed from any media such as a disk or USB drive unless it has been overwritten with random data several times - but as I said, if it is going legal, chain of evidence and tamper prevention of the original data is vital when it goes to court. My two cents - hope it helps.

That's what I was going by.

I think that's what they cost for decent ones from the likes of VW or even Miltek.

There's 2 on the engine and one on the gearbox as far as I know - 16v might be different so worth checking with another owner, but I think it's the same as the Mk2 Golf. It's not a difficult job, but you will need to get the car into the air securely, either on a lift or on axle stands and then have some way of lifting and supporting the engine and gearbox, either a hoist or a floor jack. The main problem is you might run into some stuck bolts that have seized. If you have the space and the tools, it's not too difficult, otherwise any competent mechanic will be able to turn it around very quickly for a couple of hours labour.

That's a good point - could be quite a viable option. How did you get it shipped and was there any hassle getting the rear glass and seals out intact and into the new one?

Here's some more pics, showing the different parts of the VDO pump - left to right, full pump body with swirl pot, sender unit, swirl pot and pump disassembled, pump body and then the complete unit.

The swirl pot is the white plastic part that sits around the actual pump (the body in effect) and locks into the bottom of the tank. The actual pump is just a metal cigar shaped cylinder with an inlet/outlet which is mounted inside the swirl pot. There's a couple of Torx screws on top, if you undo them you can remove the "lid" and take out the pump body. The fuel level sender clips into the side of the swirl pot, and comes off as a separate part. The pump body looks something like this:

If your sender is working fine and is the correct late one for the VDO pump body, I would just swap it over - they tend to be pretty clean sitting in petrol all day long. Just be careful when removing it from the old swirl pot, as sometimes the plastic can be brittle and breaks easily. or for peace of mind and at that price I'd get a new one (I had to anyway as mine was a Pierburg) and keep it as a spare or give it to someone else who is upgrading their pump.

That's a good price for the VDO - but worth checking with them directly to see if they can match it. That site also shows some mad cheap ones that are also rated 4 bar and look superficially identical, but not sure about Vemo/John's etc. as brands ;)

Yeah, that's the correct one, identical to the one I fitted yesterday. The cost price over here in Ireland was €185.00, ao I don't think you will get it much cheaper, but worth checking around. Have a look on German eBay with that part number. If you can get the pump body insert on it's own, it's very easy to swap over but I wasn't able to find one. The sender unit on your old one should be a white plastic rectangle with the float arm attached that clips into the body of the swirl pot, you'll need to swap this over.

Ouch - an expensive way to get a 3rd brake light once you factor in the paint and swapping everything over. But tempting.

I was gonna say did you check with Classic Parts - but it looks like they only have the early off side: https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/kotflugel-corrado.html Bummer. Pretty sure these were around up until last year. Someone somewhere was making a carbon version as well.

Any motor factors or TPS, GSF etx. should be able to get hold of some quality ones. Look for Febi, Bilstein or Lemforder - the last generally being the best. Here's a link from a supplier here in Ireland, someone on here should be able to point you in the direction of a good equivalent in the UK: http://www.ottocarparts.com/shop/100538-engine-mounting-bracket

Ouch - if it's going through insurance you may still be able to get a new one from VW - around £600 a side the last time I checked.

I thought the micros switch on the handle was only on the driver's side to send the lock/unlock signal. Could be on both sides though to avoid having different parts for RHD and LHD cars. The other loom bits will be for electric window, mirrors and switches as well as speakers. The central locking is actually vacuum operated, using a pump in the boot on the near side and there should be vacuum pipes going to all the different locks including the one on the passenger door. Does your boot operate correctly? In that case it might just be a loose connection in the door.

Definitely worth replacing both engine and gearbox mounts. Personally I would go with VAG or equivalent rubber mounts before looking at poly ones if ti's a daily driver. Think about it, if they are original in there, they are going to be 25+ years old and well past their prime. It's also worth bleeding the clutch system with new fluid to see if that helps.