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I've had hassle before with the really cheap ones (your mileage might vary, lots of others have had no problems with them) - in the end I went for either ATE, Bosch or VAG originals and haven't had any problems since. I think if you stick with a decent brand like the above, or Bremi/Valeo/VDO you shouldn't really go wrong. There is a big difference in price though, from about £30 to over four times that - so you could rationalise it and say that even if the cheaper one fails, you can buy several more for the same price provided you don't mind the work involved in replacing them.

Sound - thanks for the advice. FPR won't need replacing - have done that twice already, and it's a real pain getting it out without damaging the rail or the FPR body. The earths are a good tip - I'd forgotten about them.

No one? I must be doing it right then hopefully!

You need easily accessible storage and lots of time to take everything apart cleanly. Check out your local delivery companies and see what's available in terms of shipping/postage options - if you build up a relationship with them they will likely cut you a good deal. It's possible to ship almost anything - just a matter of cost and how much the buyer wants to pay for the convenience - after all you're not paying for it, simply arranging it. Your bigger problem is secure packaging to avoid any damage in transit and insurance - otherwise these things can turn nasty when things don't arrive as expected. If you are located fairly centrally a lot of people are happy to collect, as they will often want to see what else you have and this can work out well for you as they might buy more.

Yeah, it's in the second picture - you can't see the other part that hooks under the trim, but that's the it you're looking for. It might be the case that someone fitted a mechanism from a moonroof onto your car as a replacement and then put the metal panel back on instead of the glass one to keep it looking original from the outside.

All the mechanisms are the same - just the motor is different, but both can be made to work.

The car I know about in the south is a red January 1990 Rallye, from Smith, Knight and Fay in Stockport and last had a reg of "G60 HOT" before it made its way to Ireland.

I know of one - I'll check it out.

There are two little silver "S" shaped pivot bars that lift the internal cover, one on each side near the front of the mechanism - check that these are present on both sides and correctly located.

Some car. What colour/year was yours - I know of a few down south here and might be able to get a lead on it if it is still alive?

Hi all, planning to change out my injectors for a set of refurbished ones, will also be replacing the fuel pump (happy with that job as I've had it out a few times before), and while I had the intake off I was going to look at replacing the rocker cover gasket as well as I have an oil leak from the valve cover on the aux belt side. Was looking for advice or anything to look out for. Rough plan was: - run engine with fuel pump relay out to empty the rail and pipes - disconnect battery earth - remove all wiring to intake manifold including leads and lead guides - disconnect intake boot from manifold - undo intake bolts and remove - remove injectors and rail - clean and install new injectors in rail, refit - etc. I have new intake and throttle body gaskets and a rocker cover gasket. Are there any tricky bolts or things to look out for and will the injectors slip in easily with a bit of fuel on the new seals? What is the torque for the rocker cover bolts? And if I am that far in, is it much more work to inspect the condition of the chain guides? Thanks.

If you take look around there should be adapters with a longer bolt that allow you to keep the heat exchanger - most just get rid of it. I'd keep both if I were fitting an oil cooler, as part of it's function is to actually help heat up the oil from a cold start and get it to the correct operating temperature, and then to regulate the temperature once it is hot. That's why the correct German description always translates to "heat exchanger" as opposed to "oil cooler". I've also seen oil cooler take off sandwich plates fitted to the oil filter housing, which is a different option.

Did you replace the aux belt tensioner or bearing? This can be quite noisy. To be honest, a VR will be quite noisy until it warms up, and I've replaced tappets on quite a few other engines, and except in one case they never made quite as much difference before and after as you would expect. I think we tend to compare with newer cars that have a lot more insulation and sound proofing. 10-40 is semi-synth is the correct grade of oil. Have you checked oil pressure and the pump pickup?

Ah - ok, sorry, don't have one of those spare (only on the car) - maybe air con cars had en extra take off on this pipe?

Which one is this - is it the top rad hose?

Ha ha - well, I am currently a network architect, and have worked in IT networks and security for nearly 20 years. Before that I was a chef, and before that a musician. None of these really help in running a Corrado...

So jealous of you guys being able to go to a proper Corrado specialist like Stealth, even if you have a fair way to travel! There's nothing like that over here in Ireland.

Yeah, with less cars about there is bound to be less activity - but we should be able to keep it going. The UrQuattro forum worked quite well with a lot less cars on the road. A bigger problem is that this forum has lost some of its most experienced and knowledgeable members in past few years, and that can be hard to replace.

These used to be available through VW Classic Parts in Germany or VW Heritage in the UK - did you check there? They are very tricky to get off without bending them, so the problem is that most second hand ones won't be in great shape - it's one of the common parts to replace during a respray. There's a video on YouTube showing how to remove them without any damage.

Some cars only have two senders rather than three, hence the blanks.

Is TT not backward compatible with Vb 4? There must be some way of getting it to work.

Yeah, would totally second all this. With the radiator off it's also easy to get at all the temp sensors, and in addition to the thermostat housing, pipe and stat, it's worth looking at the oil cooler/heat exchanger, and either replace it altogether if original or at least consider replacing the two small coolant hoses to it and the seals to the block, as these are a common source of oil leaks. The parts bill will seem expensive at first, but when you consider that for access to any of these areas you need to remove the bumper, lock carrier and radiator it makes sense - and with cooling systems, once you renew one part, this seems to inevitably lead to a failure somewhere else in the chain.

https://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?type=radiator&id=VW328&model=CORRADO&make=VOLKSWAGEN Got one of these a while back and it was a genuine Hella item. Valeo are also good. It's worth checking with them what make the part they currently have is - a bit like GSF.

These are all good points - I think a merger of some sort with another site like CCGB would be worth considering. It would also be nice to host a lot more reference content - for example. take a look at the German Corrado forum, there's a lot of info to browse on there before you even dive into the forums.

Welcome along.