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aide

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Posts posted by aide

  3. Posted

    i used boiling water at first, problem i found was walking backwards/ forwards to the kettle all the time :D meanwhile i felt the strip was cooling which makes you paranoid about pulling at it - does work tho

     

    i got a cheapo heat gun from b&q, cost me like £10/ £15 and has been invaluable for loads of stuff

  7. Posted

    try the buyers guide mate, but in general;

     

    - door handles all models

    - sunroofs and spoiler all models

    - arches, sills and boot gutter all models

    - mechanically comparable to golfs, vr chains, cold start issues, idle issues etc

     

    actually.... tbh the list can go on a fair bit yet :lol:

     

    ur best reading the buyer guide!

  12. Posted

    *IF* you can find one, the metering head/ airbox can be replaced with one from a volvo 240t which is a yanky version, or (i'm told) the volvo 760 - these have an integral pipe which you can then stick a cone filter on.

     

    i've drilled one 16v airbox in my time, but wouldn't personally do it again. basically that nice noise you get is resonance from the induction system as the inlet valves open, as part of the induction system that resonance helps 'cram' more air into the cyclinder, one function of the airbox is to help reflect that resonance back into the system - drilling your box or having a cone filter without a cover lets some of this resonance escape - my opinion from reading round this subject :dorky:

  13. Posted

    the 2ltr has different management/ ECU as VW had to meet stricter emissions regs, this meant bhp losses which vw offset with the 2ltr displacement. the 2ltr ports are slighlty bigger on the inlet, with smaller exhaust unlike the 1.8 kt which is the other way round - kr therefore revs more easily whereas 2ltr has better low down torque - as a mkII man hopefully you noticed difference low down!

     

    oh, and you probably already realise that sitting a car too low makes your car more unstable, benfits of lowering only go so far!

  20. Posted

    Need to find some cheap gearbox oil and fill the box up, fit the new pivot and release bearing arm and get that ready to fit. Then need to do up the con rod bolt, swap the chains, tensioners, tappets and cams, and put the new oil pump in the engine, wack the sump on, and maybe fit the filter housing. Then I can bolt the engine and box up.

     

    sounds like ur gonna have one hell of a weekend :D keep posts coming i need inspiration

  22. Posted

    agee with the above, defo no point doing a vr transplant, go the charged 16v route, but as someone a lot deeper than me said; "a 1.8t or 20vt is the heads choice.... a 16v turbo is the hearts" :D

     

    also, i read it sooo much on here that i want to make the point that a lot of 16v owners have had vr's, and now have 16v's as weekend cars, having to make the transition from a 16v to a vr6 isn't some sort of one way right of passage for the worthy :p

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