1xshaunx1

I wouldn’t recommend anyone use the cheaper fuels on what is an old VR6 set up especially from a supermarket. People have been known to have rotted out fuel gauge senders as well running issues with cars that have used such fuels.

Looks like you’ve looked after it well all those years. Some cars get through in a month the miles that’s done in a decade.

You are definitely not compromising on anything looking at it at the stage it’s at now. Can’t wait to see more 👍

There isn’t anybody else who can map the Corrado’s Ecu up north, I tried to find someone a few years ago. Vince is the only one who can within a 100 mile of Sheffield, as far as I know. Plenty say with a stand alone ecu they could play. Loads of options out there for the journey you are about to go on, think carefully and buy once is my top tip, good luck with it Matt

All electric motors will pack in at some point, which the obd2 tb incorporates, some call it a step motor. Some last a lot longer than others. I had a second hand one initially fitted which I found surged at 2k revs, a new VDO one cured that and gave 10 more bhp after fitting, before and after power run to see if any difference. My point is if you want it to run better obd2 will help same as the coil pack mod, can be done and fairly easy. If you are happy with a duff sunroof motor don’t fix or use that either.

And still available new

It’s a bit like in the film Marathon Man when the White Angel asks “is it safe”. what does it mean, what’s the right answer 🤣😂😝

CTEC do a good range, I think I’ve got the 10amp one but you wouldn’t need that for trickle charging only. They also have a reconditioning battery setting, well mine does. Clever stuff when you read up on them.

What a collection, love it My first car was a Land Rover. Stripped it down and put it back together with my dad. Sold it to my sister after 3 years and bought a XR3i, 3 years of that and then a G60. The Land Rover was a lot of fun to drive @ 18 but very cold in the depths of winter

Open to offers

Yours is pretty too

Made up for you mate

The electric windows started playing up at the weekend, plenty of clicking but intermittent up and downy issues. So had the back panel/card off and fitted another control unit, that solved that, fitted the new drivers seatbelt while the rear quarter was in bits too. Put all that back together. Then turned my attention to the drivers door mirror, again plenty of clicking but this time absolutely no motions. This was solved by swapping the motor out for a used spare I had, problems solved, the motor must have been seized on the old one. All clicking for power getting there but no motion. FYI motors for the passenger and driver door mirrors are exactly the same and the back of the motor tells you what colour wire pin goes in which hole Very easy to swap, 4 wires, 4 screws and the mirror, simple fix. About 3 hours of messing so not long to diagnose and fix, spent more time psyching myself up for the jobs 🤣😂🤣😂, so pleasantly surprised that it went so well and only cost only time today as I had the motors and window controller already. so all electrics working again, AGAIN This luck with these speedy fixes can’t last 😖🤣😂. It would be nice not to have any for a while though🤣😂🤣

Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours

Put a photo up of the back of the horn connections

Put a photo up of the back of the horn connections

The wire coming out of the centre of the boss should be connected to the brass bit in the plastic housing this connects to the horn positive feed, the metal disc with the tab goes between the steering wheel and the boss as you say, this then connects to the horn negative/ground. Hope this helps 😉

Can you send them your old rack for refurb ?

Been for 100 mile test yesterday driving on mostly B roads and no issues, The cars is really behaving nicely. Keyo With a bit of research the Bosch coil pack I’ve fitted is also for the Ferrari F50 amongst other motors, say no more on that one. Not really tested the PCV too much yet but all seems well at the moment with it. This is a copy part for £8.55 off of EBay of 06A129101D. I don’t think it’s of much use to you standard set up guys though as it’s a 90 degree set up and you want 180 degree. You’ll also may notice I have a disconnected plug hanging there, this should be plugged into the bit that goes just before the pcv valve. It’s a dummy plug it does nothing, if you unplug yours, you will notice there are no pins in the bit it plugs into. Mine was removed as it does nothing and there is no room for it. I’ve moved that jubilee clamp a bit too since the photo.

Found time at the weekend to look at some intermittent running issues. Although it’s a lot smoother with new coil pack it still wasn’t always what it should be. So bought a new air filter and took everything to bits from the filter to the turbo. It seem a fair bit of oil residue etc coming into the intake from the crankcase breather. Cleaned all the air pipes out with break cleaner and sprayed the MAF with 10k Boost MAF cleaner. Also put a pcv vale off a 1.8T Audi on the breather Jackpot Running like it is brand new. Cold start, hot start, partial throttle, idling and boost, all as you would expect. The best thing I got out of this is that you don’t need to search for months for a new MAF if yours is a genuine Bosch try spraying the MAF cleaner on it first, it may bring it back to full life.

I hate to say it, but I would have had them drilled before polishing. You want something like they stick on the side of new cars when transporting them from the factory. It’s sticky but not tacky. They look very nice by the way 👍

The handbrake works mechanically via the leavers and such, if you’ve checked by hand on the levers and they operate differently the fault with the handbrake is in the callipers. This is why I needed new/ refurbed callipers and went for new Mk 4, a link in my thread. The drivers one did next to nothing as much as I try. With the new ones all was well I also put new cables on while I was at it.

I had a Jetex on my vr6. The bloody thing ate part of my rear bumper it moved about on its hangers so much, I had to use bits of rubber tube/pipe and some jubilee clamps to hold the the hangers in place as the brackets for the Jetex aren’t the best. Then when I’d fixed that I got an unmolested bumper 😖.

Certainly does

Worth the effort then. Nice one 👍