1xshaunx1

I had a Halfords cover on mine while I had it parked up on and off for 6 years. In fact I think I had 2 and that one was goosed when I took it off for the last time. They certainly stop the weather beating your paint and rubbers up. You do have to keep an eye on the weather though as it’s best to remove it for a bit if 70 mile an hour winds are coming, the car covers don’t like that high wind speed.

Are you selling any bits off of it Dox. I’m after after a set of rear lights that aren’t scratched to death or haven’t been badly painted 🙏

Not all of I notice 😂😂

Won’t it fit where the switch and the blank goes and relocate the headlight switch

When it’s all back together, leave the two bolts that attach the hub to bottom of the shock absorber loose. Put the wheel on and you should be able to move the top of the wheel in and out, toward the engine and away a fair bit. Set to where you think best tighten the two bolts up drop it back down and have a look. Repeat until your happy it’s something like

I had a new shroud powder coated that I jb welded the plastics on and it’s still on after using it for 5k miles before I put my new fans on a couple of years ago. In fact the things in the loft with the radiator should I want to go back to standard set up.

Just rough both sides up before with sand paper and you’ll be good. I got the inspiration for mine looking at that kit

You won’t need the studs with jb weld. Just a dob of the stuff where the stud was. Is this the kit. https://phenixengineering.com/shop/corrado-vr6-fan-shroud-kit/ you could make that yourself and save $300.

Have it coated then use JB Weld to glue it back on in position, this does work. if you went the spall fan route using the kit you refer to it gets its signal from the rad sender so you could loose the big relay and wiring for it above the gear box.

The slims aren’t massively better but quieter, it’s also that with them being new they should be more reliable. As you know I have a turbo fitted and as such more heat in the bay and a big fat intercooler infront of the radiator doesn’t help either, the fans were coming on a fair bit. I read up on spal fans and their abilities and went for 12” fans the best slim and a very powerful not so slim. This set up really does draw a lot of air when both are on. My cooling is definitely better than before and hopefully because it’s new it won’t matter how often it comes on. If new OE fans were available off the shelf I might have stuck to stock but I think this set up works well for the heat I’ve got to get rid of in slow moving traffic on a hot day. Having said all that my previous Corrado was a stock set up and I never really had problems with that, over 20k miles but I did change the thermostat, housing and sensors early on and the correct coolant with not much water. But these days the fans are nearly 30 years old so it’s a problem you might have to solve one day anyway. My 12” set up when nearly finished. It does fit but that’s about as big as you can go.

Some grease and and a big screwdriver. Put it on a cloth on the floor and sit on it while you do it.

Nice one cressa, won’t be log I’m sure.

Are you sure the switch on the door card and plug on the motor end are good.

Link to my posts about my rear brake upgrade parts.

Yes that’s what I thought when I saw them. I asked for them done originally but he only did the rear ones by the looks of it for some reason.

Did my gearbox oil seal and drive shaft swap. Seems the passenger SKF inner cv I put on 10 miles ago has gone really tight for some reason, so probably a good job I swapped it out maybe, for a whole J & R drive shaft. Be interesting when I do swap the drivers one out as that was a J&R inner cv that’s done at least 1k thousand miles on the oem shaft. I didn’t attempt the drivers side shaft as I thought I’d quit while I was ahead as that side doesn’t need doing, I just wanted to pair them up and test them. the oil seal that caused the swap and the really tight new inner cv on the oem shaft. So tight I couldn’t straighten it by hand. Also noticed I need to change the front wishbone bushes. Got it all back together, gave it a quick wash and went fo a 20 mile run with no problems to report, was really nice to go for a first decent run without issue and no drops of gear oil on the flaw this morning. So quite pleased with it all this morning. just needs the above, a good wax and the wheel alignment sorting. So not a big list for a change.

I’ve got mine to swap on Saturday. Good to know that the outer isn’t serviceable, although you had a hard day finding that out. I’ve had both mine off without taking the sump off in the last 12 months by removing the drop links and bottom ball joints from the wishbones.

I just didn’t think it looked original enough, although it was close and had I not had an old original one I would have sprayed it and fitted it.

It’s seems difficult for the fitters to get a screen in correctly on the first go. The problem is getting it all in place and lifted up before the adhesive goes hard and the game is over before they are ready. If your screen is ok and you aren’t respraying it I’d leave it for now.

Cheers for that. The mats were from a guy called Gunther on here from Germany. I was well impressed with them when they came. Dr_G60 is his user name. I don’t think he is a paid member so can’t post, but I think he can still get PM’s. He did me a full set and 2 spare drivers mats for £150 delivered which I thought was pretty good as it’s always the drivers mat that looks tatty first. Nearly as much as the new carpet from Newton. But I think it was all worth the money and effort. I’m soooo happy not to have my car spread all over the garage and house anymore. I’m going to do the driveshafts and have a damn good tidy up and clear out after. I’m going to be ruthless.

I bet you didn’t get much for it over a decade ago. That would be about the time I bought my Aqua. I think mint ones with recaros were going for £6k tops

Funnily enough I changed my drop links and bottom ball joints while I had it in bits this year.

On the bright side there is a good chance the knocking noises you could hear were coming from that.

both cheap items to replace but the boot is a git and will probably knock your wheel alignment out too

No worries my friend. Keep at it you will get there. It may be a short on one of the powers to the fuel tank