seanl82

My current fave!

As above. There isn't an idle screw on the VR as such. It's just the throttle damper which you can wind in or out if required.

Unless you have any oil leaks, I wouldn't be too concerned with replacing seals unless you want to for peace of mind. Cam cover gasket and sump gasket are easy enough to do, but you've gotta start stripping lots of things down to get to anything else. A simple oil and filter change with 10w-40 Quantum from VW will be perfectly fine, but if you want to lavish a bit more money on it, check out the Opie oil website for some 10w-50 like Fuchs Titan pro or similar. Check suppliers forum for discount code. 6 litres needed.

Judging by comments earlier in the thread, if it doesn't sell by the time it's due to air, a member of the crew "buys" it.

Its been listed on Sky as an Alfasud the last few days.

Get in touch with trimsport. There is one in the sale section I think that has the logo missing, and they were willing to make it up at a cost iirc.

Still available from the dealer iirc. Part number 535 853 393. You need 3 mate.

Good stuff, good to see its in good hands and you're on top of it already! :thumbright: Not sure who suggested 2-3 hours for the ignition switch, it can be awkward but its not a difficult or long job provided the screw comes out ok.

Having had both, I've been lucky that apart from an aftermarket immobiliser issue on the valver, and the rad going on the VR6, I've not had any problems at all. The VR isn't a daily though, but that said I'd have no qualms about using it daily if the need arises. It depends on your commute as to economy though. If its mostly/all town driving, the you'll be lucky to see low 20s in a VR6. With a bit of a leg stretch, then mid to late 20s, and mostly motorway driving will return late 20s to mid 30s. Remember, that 38 mpg was probably taken with a warm engine and the trip computer reset on the motorway. Again, it all depends how heavy your foot is too. If you do a fair bit of preventative maintenance on the valver, I'm sure you'd carry that on with a VR too. Its not a complicated lump so most things are easily fixable.

Glad you've got a quick sale and its going to a good home Sean. Hardly surprising as that was a mega cheap sale price considering, even with exterior defects taken into account. Keep us updated with what you move onto though mate, and don't be a stranger! :thumbright:

Looks pretty simple mate, give it a go. I would do yours, but I'm not gonna get chance to do mine til January I reckon!

Jamie you mad *******! My brother in law trashed his car when we had the floods. He had it in his head that if he kept revs high it wouldn't cut out! Cue sized engine, and he asked me to look if it could be fixed. One plug removed told me there wasn't a chance!!!!

There was another thread recently which showed how to rebuild one using another, as it's generally just one of the two brushes that wear. I've got 3 old ones at home so hoping to make a usable one from those. Fingers crossed it's just that!

I have the same problem Chuggs. You can't use the Golf mech though unless you're not bothered about the interior sunroof trim tilting, as there are hooks on the corrado mech to make it lift up, which are not on the Golf mech as the whole trim just slides back by hand whether tilting or sliding.

I can't see the pic but if you find an offcut of the colour you'd like (or just the trainer), send them up to furniture clinic to match. I did my beige interior, and sent them my headrest to match. I got the kit and my headrest back less than a week after I sent it, and the match was absolutely perfect! :thumbright:

Should be easy enough to do without removing it. Just use a bit of APC and an old tooth brush or something. The brisles will stay within the groove on the side of the roof where the seal meets then. Gentle rubbing will be enough to get it back to looking like new. :thumbright:

Yep, 100k is pretty damn low for these cars nowadays. It'll probably soon require some preventative maintenance with chains, guides and tensioner replacement (if not done already), but that'll probably see you through for another 100k provided its looked after. :thumbright:

Welcome to the forum, great progress as said, its always good to see lots of attention being lavished on these cars! As for what to do with the engine, it depends on your own long term plans really. If you're planning on any sort of return on your investment, I'd say forget it if you do lots of engine work or swap it out. If you're in it for the long run, then there are plenty of options! Pretty sure the cylinder walls are too thin to bore it out safely to 3.2, so an R32 is an option that has been covered a fair bit. Forced induction brings some fantastic results, but budgets tend to keep going and going unless you really do your homework and are realistic about how much you need to spend. Either way, good luck with whatever you choose mate, and hope to see some more updates along the way! :thumbright:

Its not illegal, its just that later (I thought it was April 92) are subject to much tighter emission control. Therefore it'll very likely fail the MOT on that, unless you have a friendly tester...................

No don't do it Sean! Do you still have the stock suspension? Cant you put that back on and sell on the Bilsteins? It may be at a slight loss, but far less of a loss than what you've put into the car surely.............

I snapped mine getting them off Rob. The captive nuts are held in by the plastic guides so break very easily. Some don't have any problems though, and I managed to get a good second hand set no bother in the end. Definitely worth soaking in penetrating fluid as Chris says though mate.

Bloody hell Sean, sorry to hear about this. I didn't know about the issue so had to read back on your thread. I'm still yet to fit mine either, and by the time I do they'll probably be outside of warranty so I'd be stuffed. I hope you can get a resolution though mate, who is it you've been in contact with?

IronX. Bilberry wheel cleaner. Bilt Hamber Clay. Meguiars all metal polysh with 0000 wire wools on exhaust. CG Jetseal 109 on Wheels & exhaust. A good diminishing abrasive polish for bodywork if doing it by hand, is Ultimate compound. AG SRP is very good but is filler heavy, so it'll never really last. Carpro Perl for tyres, as its dilutable so you can choose if you want glossy or a more matte affect - This can also be used on interior, exterior, and engine bay plastics too, as well as hoses etc. I currently have Carpro Dlux for exterior plastics which is excellent and gives you longevity, but Perl is good for a short while for the reasons above. I have but have yet to use Carpro Cquartz for bodywork. Again I'm hoping this will give a good finish and will last a long time, but I've used Collinite 476s recently as it also lasts a while and gives decent results. I did have some CG Petes 53 black pearl which was immense, but it didn't last very long and had to be re-applied every couple of weeks. The level of gloss was the best I've personally used though. Its really easy to apply and remove though, so unless you're lazy like me, its not much of a chore.

Get some electrical contact cleaner and give the element in your MAF a good going over. Leave it off for an hour to ensure it all evaporates then try it again. I've had juddering under load in previous VWs and that was the cause. If you can get a good second hand one to rule it out all the better.

You won't get big power without forking out for it in G60 guise. Just get a VR6 for the same price as a G60 and you've already got a head start. That, or a cheap 16v with tidy bodywork but knackered engine, and do a 20vT swap. You won't get the induction or supercharger noise, but the 20vT is very responsive to a bit of tuning so it'll make good numbers (especially with a k03s/k04), and there are tons of em about.