seanl82

Heater only working on 4 is also a sign of a failed blower resistor. If you have a search in the wiki I think there is a guide on replacing it, and its pretty cheap too.

Wow, you're a bundle of joy aren't you!

Its not a snag with what you've put up mate, its the work security crap that blocks anything on any image hosting site from being shown. There are very few pics I can see on here unfortunately. I'll check it out on the ipad when I next get wifi. :thumbleft: Edit: That other one works! looks a cracker mate!

Not a Honda Jizz then.......... :lol:

The photos are blocked for me, so I don't know what you've done Jamie! I'm assuming its a rear wheel drive German sports car............

Utter bargain that, someone should bite his hand off!

Fingers crossed you've finally cured the leaks Rob! Look forward to seeing the end results of all your hard work mate. :thumbleft:

So what part does the control unit that sits behind the dash play then? The collar plugs into the control unit, then another cable goes from the control unit to the ECU.

You should be able to get your hand up if you drop the drivers side under dash trays. Alternatively if you remove the clock surround you may be able to see it with a torch, and get your hand in to at least check. Its a bit of a faff, but do-able.

There is also an immobiliser "box" type thing that sits next to the spoiler control module, up behind the drivers side dash. Worth checking the two plugs into that are pushed home as well mate.

Should be beside the battery, behind the headlight. The resistor is bolted to the inner wing, and the yellow connectors attached to that.

Standard and standard. Seats have had replacement bolsters (drivers upper and lower), leather replaced where required and all have been re-coloured. Steering wheel will be re-coloured shortly, but is in decent knick.

I think it sounds like ChrisL's old car. Was it a Blackberry coloured one? If so, it sold quite a long time ago. You honestly get what you pay for, and what you are looking for would probably cost between 5-7k I'd imagine. There are a few exceptions though, and you may find a peach for a bit under. Prices seem to be firmly on the rise at the moment though, so I wouldn't hold out too long.

Be very careful when trying to close it! Watch the exterior panel doesn't rise as its being slid forward, or else you'll scratch it all as it raises up when the mechanism is broken!

Dymo all the way. They are the Rolls Royce of Label machines! Tons of em at various price ranges too Chris.

That one above is passenger side as the bleed nipple goes to the top.

That one above is a 280mm caliper. The 288s have a triangular cut out at the top unlike the rectangular(ish) one as above. Both types are marked either Lucus or Girling 54, as that is the Manufacturer and piston size iirc.

Good luck!

Tis my oil of choice too! :) dr_mat, I've found that unless you are completely draining the head, removing sump, oil filter housing, etc etc, 6 litres is perfect to do a full change so you shouldn't need to get an extra litre after your free litre. :thumbleft:

I painted mine and it looks pretty good I think. Iirc it was Hycote Aluminium but can't be 100% at the moment. Its not chipped off, but its not completely chemical resistant as I used petrol to get some CV grease off of the bottom when I changed the drive shaft, and it took a bit of the paint with it.

If they've put a bit of gasket sealant on the chain covers, maybe removing them has caused the gasket to split there. I'd be reluctant to change it though Jim, can of worms and all that. Its adviseable to have the head skimmed every time its removed due to slight warping when the tension comes off. (Its microns, but that is all that is taken off the head when being skimmed anyway). But its another expense, and the valves would need to be removed to skim, and coupled with the very shallow chamber on the VR6 you can only get away with it a few times as well. I'd just put a bit of gasket sealant on the affected area and leave it as is mate, or it could end up causing more problems than its worth and the niggling thing could seriously snowball!

There are a 4 of them iirc, all located behind the glove box.

Yep, print off the buyers guide and take it with you! Classic insurance policies are generally only available if you are over 25, and they tend to be for SDP only. Most have limited mileage too and obviously the lower it is (1-6k miles max usually) the cheaper it'll be.

Pretty sure they are a long time obsolete, and particularly difficult to get hold of. I remember speaking to VR6South about it, and I think he retrofitted headed seats to his car, and had quite a mission trying to get a set of relays on their own which he managed in the end from a scrap yard. That was quite a few years ago too I believe, when there was more likely to be a Corrado (or Passat he got them out of iirc) in a scrap yard.

If you put the sunroof in the tilt position, the panel should just slide up and out of the rear when you push down on the retaining tabs each side.