seanl82

Its good stuff Chuggs. Definitely brings it back to life, and although doesn't look quite like new, it certainly makes a good deal of difference. I've used C4 before, and I've currently got Carpro Dlux which is on at the moment. Exactly the same thing and fingers crossed will last just as long.

Whip the rear card off and have a gander at what the culprit could be. Relays are no longer available and apparently like rocking horse poop, but if you're confident with a soldering iron, they can be fixed sometimes if its just a dry joint from age. May just be the relay isn't seated correctly though...............

Its not permanent as it says, but will last a good 18 months - 2 years though before you'll need to re-apply it. Its good stuff but won't give quite the deep black you get from new plastic.

Get someone to try starting it whilst you have the bonnet open mate. Sounds like arching from the HT Leads to me, and if you start it in the dark, if that is the issue you'll probably see a nice little fireworks display around the culprit from the arching. Thats my first thought anyway mate.

I'm at work Richard, (literally live here atm!) and most image hosting sites are blocked, so I don't see many of the pictures posted on here. Not something you've done wrong if others can see it mate.

Can't see the pictures, but I'm assuming its the anti-vibration damper. It should be a tight fit, and help stop any vibrations at speed. If its loose and you're having no noticeable vibration, just cut it off mate.

Get a multimeter on the mech when in situ, and get someone to operate the button. That'll rule out the switch and wiring for sure, which will only really leave you with the mech or motor as the culprit. Does it seem stiff retracting it on the manual butterfly shaped nob thingy?

Glad to hear its all sorted and no one was injured Max. Good to see the garage being fair too, there are too many that will just turn their back on you regardless of if they are at fault or not, in the hope you'll just go away.

There are a lot of add ons like that for the ai606, so give one of the dealers a ring. (Just google it, there are quite a few around the country). Good system from what I've heard and very reliable.

Have a look under the seat base if you're unsure if they're heated Phil. You should see a plug mounted to a bracket with the wire going up to the side of the seat base if they are mate.

Worth noting Mike that KDS are regarded as one of, if not the best detailers in the UK. Cost for respray per panel seems very reasonable, but worth calling them first and having a good chat, as costs will likely mount up. They have their reputation for a reason though, and with being so well regarded can lead to high prices and long waiting lists. As mentioned, you get what you pay for mate though mate. Is there no one near you then? I'd recommend visiting a few places tbh. Always good to get a feel for the place and the person who is doing the work. You can actually see for your own eyes their work too, as pictures won't show clearly enough the end finish, and a reputable paint shop will be more than happy to show you the quality of their workmanship.

Preferred colour, mileage, modified/original, budget????

The 1st set of sliders are different on a mk3 golf. The mk3 golf uses the manual sliding trim panel rather than auto tilt and slide like the Corrado, so it won't raise the inner trim unless you swap them all over. In which case, you may as well just repair yours.

Seeing as there is a lot of mention of ignition switches, I'll give my 2 pence too! I've done two of them. One on my old valver which I had an utter nightmare with, and cable tied in as others have done. The switch I replaced on the current car was actually really easy. Didn't need to bend a screwdriver or anything like that, it went in an absolute doddle. Didn't cure the intermittent (non)cranking issue I still have (probably starter motor), but the key turn feels much more solid now so it was obviously well past its best. Both times I did it from below with seat removed. Shame I can't see the photos, but I'll have a look when I'm back in the UK for a couple of weeks, in 6 weeks time. :thumbright:

I got Vibratech mounts Rob, which worked out very slightly more than getting OE ones from the dealer in the end. Quite a few "which engine mount" threads about so worth a search and read if you're not sure whether to go OE or not. If you do mix it up a bit, stick with standard rear and GB, and get a fast road front would be my recommendation mate. They were still available from the dealer last year, but certainly not cheap. A good branded aftermarket manufacturer would be sufficient.

Chuggs, the gtechniq is fantastic for slightly faded trim, but don't expect miracles. The best thing about it is its longevity. You shouldn't need to touch them for a good year after application. Its similar with Carpro Dlux and a few other semi permanent trim restoration products at the top end of the market.

I'd get a rear bias valve too Rob. Easy to replace with the beam off, and its probably not too good if its the original. I got an ATE one (OE) from ebay for about £65 for the aqua before I sold it mate.

Just caught up on your updates since I've been gone Rob. Unfortunately I can't see the pics though, but good progress all the same. I need to do my steering wheel too. Its the only part of the interior now letting the side down! Look forward to seeing it when I'm back mate, keep up the good work!

Cheap non hubcentric spacers would certainly cause this mate. I'd sugget getting it booked into an alignment specialist too as your geometry will probably be way off now, especially if you've gone quite low.

I bought one of these off of ebay as my CV boots had split. It was too cheap to not replace the lot so I thought why not? I plan on sorting my original shaft with new CVs eventually, so did this in the short term. Only thing I'll say is that the shaft is slightly smaller in diameter, and its bare metal so quickly gets rusty, unless you have it powder coated obviously. Just looks ugly quickly, and eventually the rust will weaken it so its not a permanent solution imo.

Kyle, do you have a larger brake setup? I only ask, as I had a ticking noise after having new tyres, and it turned out Protyre had put the weights in direct rotation to the closest part of the caliper, and it was catching ever so slightly. Worth a try mate. Sean.

I'm a fair way away from Libya actually. I'm in a very cold place in the South Atlantic, where on this date 33 years ago we were having a bit of head to head with a certain South American country. I'll hopefully be free to attend some shows/meets from Spring next year though, and hopefully be able to see your not so new anymore Corrado Daren! Hope you're all having an enjoyable day, look forward to seeing some pics guys! :thumbright:

Enjoy chaps, wish I was able to attend. :(

Congrats on getting it all back and top work with the brakes Chris. Hopefully catch up with you and finally get a look round next year! :thumbleft:

It runs straight from the switch down over the top of the fusebox iirc Wayne. It's not too difficult if your careful to replace the whole loom. JusJust trace the loom to the block on the fusebox (top right iirc). Slide the fuse block retaining bar across, pull out block and remove. Refitting is reverse of removal mate. Well worth doing judging by the state of that cable!