seanl82

ABF was 150 bhp standard..........

There was a thread on here regarding these a couple of days ago mate. Came well recommended by quite a few and are very cheap! I have one on the passenger side, and although its good for the money, I'd recommend getting it powdercoated as its bare metal and corrodes quite quickly.

Not looked through it myself, but pretty sure everything you need will be listed in this thread somewhere mate. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36117-The-Forced-Induction-20V-Thread

I got some from ARZ tuning last year. If you can stomach the postage price, they were actually good value. I got quite a bit from there so the postage cost was offset over the lot which helped.

Proper cheap and nasty chinese rip off parts on ebay. I've seen front sensors for as little as £4 on there.

Rear top mounts are obsolete now. Can't remember how much individually they were but front top mounts, bearings and top plates cost me around £80 this time last year! Edit: should have read your post properly, you've been in contact with Thursdave so know this already!.

No I didn't send it off in the end. I didn't realise initially that you cannot reset ABS error codes on VCDS from the main page. You have to go into the ABS specific menu and do it there. Once I'd done that, there was no other fault code beside the pedal position sensor which fixed the problem. :)

I got a quote for an ABS pump recon from BBS Raman about a year ago. Iirc it was around the £150 mark but cant be sure. Turns out my pump was good after all anyway.

Do we know for sure the car hadn't already had them replaced???

I'm gutted I won't be able to watch it. :( Still, its being recorded on series link so at least its there for my return in December! Lots of info on this thread though please fellas, I'm not worried about it being ruined for me when I get back, I want to know what they have to say and do!!!! :)

Hard to resist that slight tweek despite how good they look standard eh Daren. Either way, it'll look fantastic with whatever of the two options you decide mate. :)

That is extremely impressive but its what a car of that caliber deserves I think, which is why its in good hands now too. Mine was a bit sketchy before I took ownership, with just a few random receipts scattered over the years aside from the service book which also has a bit of a gap for a couple of years. I've since kept all receipts for work I've done obviously, but written a record when/what I've done with servicing and maintenance routines, and even kept a log of parts I've replaced with second hand bits and dates, just to build up a history to show the car is being looked after finally.

Congrats on your purchase! I preferred the 1.8 over the 2.0 16v personally, but you do need to rev it to get the best out of it. The 2.0 has more torque low down but felt very flat to me. The 1.8 really pulled well above 3.5k rpm. For some reason, parts are a bit cheaper on the earlier cars too which is a bonus. Gets some pics when it arrives, and what are your plans with it mate? :)

Not at all mate. As long as you can get the multi spline bolts out then its really simple. Just remove the large hub nut behind the wheel centre cap, remove the 6 multi spline bolts from the gearbox end of the drive shaft, and it should pull straight out with a gentle tap.

I have one of these on my O/S. Its ok, but the driveshaft is just turned steel so corrodes very quickly (just looks a bit unsightly I suppose). Worth getting a bit of paint or powdercoat on to preserve them, but yeah its a great price. I just needed an outer CV boot, but as I find it easier to remove the entire driveshaft to fit them, I just thought why not do the whole lot!

Ok I didn't know that, I stand corrected!

Its very common the reading being low on the gauge. Change the appropriate temp sensor (cant remember which colour sorry!) and check out what the ECU is reading too, as that is off of a different sensor. Very much doubt there is anything wrong with any part of the cooling system, so just keep an eye on your oil temps through the MFA, that'll dictate which map is running and have the effect on engine wear.

I wouldn't bother with internal work like that. Waste of money for negligable gains tbh. The 9a cams are very restrictive, so the KR or ABF cams make a real difference, but other than that its not worth doing. You could spend a grand on port matching, polishing, reboring, etc etc for about a 10 bhp difference. If power is what you're after, FI is the way to go hands down.

"I bought one" :shrug: I thought you'd bought a few now Chris!?

Iirc, a set of KR or ABF cams in your 9A will see you to about 170bhp on their own too mate.

1.8 20vT from a mk4 Golf, Leon Cupra R, Audi TT/S3 etc, with the K03s or K04 Turbo will see you well. Tons of info as its been done loads already, and with a remap you'll have more than enough power. Loads of these lumps available or even a decent donor car for reasonable money now too.

Yeah the heater box where the matrix lives is just a series of flaps. Sliding direction and heat controls just moves the bowden cables and closes/opens the flaps mate.

Beige leather trimmed A,B,C pillars As title. Look awsome when fitted. All in perfect order although some areas could do with being bonded to the plastic again. Also as pictured, there are a couple of small holes where alarm sensors have been fitted previously. They have been stripped back and re-coloured using the Furniture Clinic restoration kit. The colour was matched to my factory beige leather, of which I sent the headrest to them for matching. This has ensured they matched an area that had no sun bleaching, so should match brilliantly if you have the same coloured upholstery. All I'm after is what I paid for them, and they're now in better order than when I got them. More pics on request, and I can also deliver to the National Day at Bruntingthorpe, or Bristol Volksfest in the next few weeks as I'm attending both. Any questions and I'll be happy to answer. Cheers! Bump for price drop. List Date: 5/15/2014 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Beige leather trimmed A,B,C pillars -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?100.00 -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Beige leather trimmed A,B,C pillars Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

You mean the rear stub axles Rob? If so, check the mating surface to the rear beam first, as it really needs to be perfectly flat so any corrosion could cause the alignment to be out. If you are happy to re-use them, just make sure the corrosion isn't too bad by chipping a bit of it away. If you're in any doubt about its integrity then obviously change them as a matter of course.

No thats correct. The raised bit ensures it makes contact with the steering wheel for the horn.