seanl82

As Hasan has said then, check you have power to the terminals on the pump (Lift the boot carpet and open up the inspection hatch), and go from there mate. Its pointing toward the pump though by the sound of things.

No fuel pump has a separate relay. 67 or 167 depending on date manufactured mate. Pop the fuse cover off, and put a finger on the relay whilst you turn the ignition to position 2. You'll feel it energising by a little ping if the relay is working mate.

If it was the water pump, its on the left hand side of the block as you look at the engine bay. Should help pinpoint where the noise is coming from. Put a request for help out to forum members in the area. If you're not too far, I'm sure someone would be willing to help mate. Good luck with finding it, whatever the problem is.

Unless you can get a diagnostic check through VCDS, its a bit difficult to diagnose other than throwing common faults out and hoping things work by a process of elimination. I think you mentioned it sounding like it was arching, which would point to ignition (coilpack/distributor, or leads), or possibly even MAF with the juddering symptoms. If you can go to someone relatively locally who has VCDS or even if they are willing to be a temporary donor of parts if they have a working car, then it'll be easier to diagnose. Its one of those things unfortunately, and you could have a car thats a year old and have problems, at which point you'd probably be spending far more than £130 unless it was covered under warrenty mate.

Might be worth just stripping them down if you don't want to go mk3/mk4/TT etc bigger brakes Rob. As long as the pistons aren't too pitted, rebuild kits are available all over the place, and you can get the caliper blasted and zinc coated or something for much less than a new set. I think BigRed may do them already refurbished, but they're not too cheap from what I can remember. I think ChrisL had a set done by them iirc.

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the forum mate. Get a members gallery going and get some pics up. We all like a few pics! Go to know its in good hands too judging by what you've done previously!

Nice little trip down too Rob. Will be up for it again at some point next year no doubt!

Ah I remember the hole where they are supposed to fit now. I've never had them on mine so didn't realise the clips kept them in place. They look exactly the same as the clips that hold the weather strip onto the bottom of the doors, and if they are (ETKA lists them too so have a look), then they were available about 9 months ago as I bought about 12 of them. I'd check ETKA or my receipt for you, but I'm not home for another 3 weeks mate sorry.

They look like the clips that hold the weather seal on the bottom of the door.........? I can't picture where they are on the seat runners though, can you give more of a description where they go please mate?

May be just some foliage if its been left out in the elements for a while. Take the foliage cover off and have a look down inside the fan. There are a few aftermarket ones on ebay as I'm not sure they're still available, but can't imagine them being too cheap! You can buy the resistor from ebay too if you need it. Have a search as I'm sure there are details of exactly what you need on the forum somewhere.

It won't be the relay if its getting some fuel. Remember a relay is effectively just a switch, so it'll either be on or off.

Early fogs won't fit and are just the light unit itself. The later ones have a plastic surround for the indicator as well, and sit slightly more forward than the early type. Edit: Sorry, its still early for me, didn't see easypops reply.

Your old crank sensor looks correct. I had a faulty cam sensor on the aqua too btw. It started and idled fine, and the only symptom I had was poor pickup. I really did struggle for power. Luckily I had a spare and its literally a 2 minute job to replace. Is there anyone near you that could read the fault codes? Seems that even if you have to pay for it to be done, you'll save a few quid with the amount of parts your having to buy in the hope of fixing it.

C&R enterprises do them, but last time I checked their website I couldn't find them. They list them on ebay though, and if you give them a ring they usually have them in stock mate.

Filters are obsolete, as are the only aftermarket ones which were the Jetex ones mentioned iirc. If you're desparate, I've known some to cut up some cooker hood filters, and secure them with rubber bands. Nothing going that would look OE though unless you fancy getting creative with the hood filters and a glue gun? :shrug:

Not weird that one mate. There are 2 oil pressure sensors, one high, and one low. Obviously as revs drop the oil pressure drops. Cant remember off the top of my head which colour the low pressure one is, but if you google it, it'll probably come up. My bet would be on the sensor as they are relatively common failures, but worse case it could be oil pump. Edit: doh, didnt read it properly!!! Possibly wiring then, or worst case as said, oil pump. Definitely worth looking at the spade connectors and re-terminating them as that is also a problem area mate.

You say there was no seal on the old one, but did you have a good dig around in the area it fits into!? I'm not sure what you mean by plastic cover though. The main part of the sensor should be encased in plastic, with a bare metal probe that fits inside the crank area. And yep, its an utter nightmare to do in situ! Hope it sorts your problems though mate. :thumbleft:

Its good stuff Chuggs. Definitely brings it back to life, and although doesn't look quite like new, it certainly makes a good deal of difference. I've used C4 before, and I've currently got Carpro Dlux which is on at the moment. Exactly the same thing and fingers crossed will last just as long.

Whip the rear card off and have a gander at what the culprit could be. Relays are no longer available and apparently like rocking horse poop, but if you're confident with a soldering iron, they can be fixed sometimes if its just a dry joint from age. May just be the relay isn't seated correctly though...............

Its not permanent as it says, but will last a good 18 months - 2 years though before you'll need to re-apply it. Its good stuff but won't give quite the deep black you get from new plastic.

Get someone to try starting it whilst you have the bonnet open mate. Sounds like arching from the HT Leads to me, and if you start it in the dark, if that is the issue you'll probably see a nice little fireworks display around the culprit from the arching. Thats my first thought anyway mate.

I'm at work Richard, (literally live here atm!) and most image hosting sites are blocked, so I don't see many of the pictures posted on here. Not something you've done wrong if others can see it mate.

Can't see the pictures, but I'm assuming its the anti-vibration damper. It should be a tight fit, and help stop any vibrations at speed. If its loose and you're having no noticeable vibration, just cut it off mate.

Get a multimeter on the mech when in situ, and get someone to operate the button. That'll rule out the switch and wiring for sure, which will only really leave you with the mech or motor as the culprit. Does it seem stiff retracting it on the manual butterfly shaped nob thingy?

Glad to hear its all sorted and no one was injured Max. Good to see the garage being fair too, there are too many that will just turn their back on you regardless of if they are at fault or not, in the hope you'll just go away.