seanl82

I would Jim. Moisture is paints worst enemy when spraying, and water traps cost literally a couple of quid.

Have a search online for reviews of the companies remaps on N/A engines. Lots offer the service but only some can do it to a good standard. There are so many variables due to different characteristics of different engines, and you may end up with poor or aggressive power delivery or throttle response, or power coming in in a smaller or unusable rev range. If done right, it'll reduce the flat area in the lower revs and give a smooth but quicker throttle response.

Hmmmm, 140k or 155k? No rust, or a little bit of rust?

Service history? Receipts for work? Chains done? number of owners? There are a huge amount of variables that affect the price. More info is needed than this I'm afraid. If you put some pictures up of the car with close ups of interior, exterior and engine bay, you're more likely to get a accurate value, and certainly more likely to get a decent price at sale. Look on ebay, gumtree, pistonheads, Autotrader, etc etc, and on here for cars similar to yours. That'll give you an idea of what to expect.

Hes on the spectators list. Will it be ready in time!...................... Mic, Sean_Jaymo and Hoffmeister on on there too. Its us four one after another!

Guys and gals, the VR6OC have organised a RR day as in title. It's a Sunday as thats the only day Stealth do these block bookings on the rollers. They seem to be struggling for numbers as there will be 25 slots with 5 reserve. There are currently 8 slots still available if you want to roll, but even if not there are a few of us from here attending, so would be good for just a general meet and to have a nosey if you don't. Get yourself over there and get those slots booked up! :thumbleft:

Oooh looks very tidy in that bay! Great colour too. :norty: The lead guides look custom though. I'd assume they split, or leads are accessed from below but it certainly makes the bay look very tidy indeed. Tons of work required to get an engine bay like that though and a PITA should something go wrong! Not sure what gearbox is mated to that one either but its not standard. Throttle body has been changed to allow for accelerator cable to be re-routed, and I'd certainly never put my air filter right above the downpipe! :bonk:

Cracking work there! Where did you get the hubs and abs rotors from?

Where are you located mate?

1.8 would be my choice of the two, but if you're handy with a spanner, fitting the 1.8 cams to the 2.0 makes a huge difference, and you'll up the performance to around 160 bhp going on what others have posted. I test drove a 2.0 when I first got into the cars about 4 years ago. I was left very underwhelmed if I'm honest. The 1.8 felt much more spritely although most performance is delivered higher up the rev range. The early cars (1.8 16v) are cheaper to buy parts for even though its harder to find them as there are less around. Late (2.0 16v) are far more numerous for parts, but they do command a premium to be honest. I'd suggest a drive of as many as possible different engine types, and see which suits your driving style best.

Have a search, (I can't be arsed) as someone else had this problem with their VR6 iirc. If you turn the engine off, then re-start it goes back to reading correctly I think it was. Very strange and I'm not sure they ever got to the bottom of it...........................

I'm off in April mate. I'll have to stop by before I go if its unlikely you'll be ready to take the car out before then.

Looks a cracker Daren! Never seen a picture of the corner plastics let alone seen them fitted! Look forward to catching up soon mate. :thumbleft:

Well backed up Sean. I agreed with you on the principle, and did have a quick look for my course handout for hydraulics to back it up. I couldn't find it, and I'll be damned if I could remember anything like to this level of detail without researching! Hats off to you Sir! :salute:

The securing bolts on the wishbones have a nasty and quite frequent habit of shearing. The wishbones themselves are readily available aftermarket. Lots recommend R32 rear bushes, although I have no experience personally. The wishbones are available with these fitted from veedubmachine iirc. Its your call to replace just the bushes and doing it in situ, or removing and/or replacing the wishbone tbh mate.

What do people plug the rocker with when it's removed?

You can get adaptors for the 2x2 from ebay for about £2! They will work as they should with vcds or Rosstech software. The Rosstech software is free to download, its the hardware you have to pay for. Ebay sellers advertise vagcom cables for varying prices that work with the Rosstech software, but are illegal as its copywrite infringement................

I think I remember when it was last below £1 per litre. 2007!

Hi Daren, sorry mate that was one of the parts I had to replace. I have the drivers side but no good to you I'm afraid mate.

I've got an aqua blue vr6 thats a bit of a project, but it's yours for less than half of what you're willing to pay........ Where are you located?

I've just fixed my mechanism. I got a cheap mk3 Golf replacement, but you can't use the original metal panel as the roof trim won't raise when you use the tilt function. Mine was doing the same thing as is in the link to the Corrado club of Canada in the wiki, and raising when sliding forward. I replaced the middle and rear locking parts with the ones from the Golf mech, and it now works perfectly. Well, it would if my motor wasn't tits as well! Lol

Fair enough mate, looks ace though! :thumbleft:

Brilliant! Welcome back Daren - although you never really went away! Look forward to seeing this mate! :thumbleft:

Bottom hose should stay cold until at full operating temp (90 degrees). If it was stuck closed, you'd have overheating problems. Just leave it running for 10 mins on the drive and it should be up to temp.

It's mk4 rear calipers used for upgrade chuggs. Discs and pads not strictly necessary, but worth replacing if your doing the calipers. There's a thread in the wiki section with part numbers of what's needed.