seanl82

Not really mate. It's a touch cheaper but that seems to be the only real difference. I was well into detailing in the past, but I've grown tired of spending hours and hours doing it all every 6 months, and waxing every few weeks. I moved onto nanotechnology to ensure I only have to do it every 18 months to 2 years hopefully.

Thanks all, really happy with it now and can't wait to get out in it! Sean, I've used it in the past but I've got Carpro Cquartz this time. I've not used it yet as I wanted to give it a finishing polish before applying. Alas, I've run out of time before I want it back on the road, so I've just put some collinite on for the time being until I get a chance. Should be back on it before show time so it'll look it's best then! The exterior plastics have been sealed with Carpro Dlux though so only paintwork needs doing.

No I got you mate, was just being fickle.

It came up on here a couple of months ago mate. Good price, so I took it! Fingers crossed this is the end of my woes then! I do have another that came still attached to a second hand servo and lines to the abs pump I bought. I'd imagine it still works as it came from a working system. I'll take mine apart then if it's electrical problems that occur and I should be able to refurbish that one as well. Cheers buddy!

Would the servo throw up this fault if it was duff Sean? I have a brand spankers pedal sensor so it should work. Shouldn't take long to fit and test it but I won't get the chance til at least the 27th now.

Good new Chris! I take it they are a local company?

Thought I'd pretty much finished so gave it the first wash and protection since paint. Scuffed my brand new bloody splitter getting onto the ramp before it had even seen a public road. Grrrrr! Then went took it for a quick spin to make sure everything was OK. Apparently not! As soon as I passed about 10 mph, the friggin ABS light came on again! Is this the one on the servo below the master cylinder, or the one behind the dash? I have a spare anyway luckily, but busy until after Xmas now so it'll have to wait. Still awaiting my scuttle clips from Classic parts anyway. This will mean I have replaced the entire ABS loom, the pump, ECU, both rear sensors, and soon the pedal position sensor. The only thing that hasn't been knackered are the two front sensors!

Which Town centres do you know that open their doors at 0600 Kev!? :scratch:

Have been getting the kids stuff here and there, but just been in the get the missus, mother and Brother. Bit last minute but thats how I roll......... Anyway, left the house at 6, back by 7.15. Pretty quiet in town, Whats the problem!

Maplins is your best bet. If you can take a section of the wire in, the staff are generally quite knowledgeable and will advise you what's best that they have.

It's the most common problem. If you have a multi meter, check resistance at each connector which will tell you if it at fault. Intermittent problems though are better checked using vagcom if you can.

Welcome along! Good car that, and many helpful folk here to help you out with any problems that occur. Here's the members gallery from old for a bit more info on the car. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=54525

I can't remember the diameter of the copper pipe sorry. If you measure the inner diameter of the hose that should give you an idea. It'll be OK running it short term I expect, but I'd change it out before too long. If the matrix fails, it'll spill hot coolant all over your feet and will steam up your windscreen pretty sharpish! If you have confidence in your matrix go for it. In the short term it's worth a try even if it just pinpoints your problem.

118d M Sport Bimmer. In all honesty, probably less practical than the Corrado! Certainly less boot space, and not much more room in the back. Apart from the Climate control, MPG, and tax (£15 per year!), its not a patch on the Corrado. Maybe a touch more comfortable on a long journey, but I'm quite happy driving the C for a few hours at a time and don't feel drained at the end. I've said it before, unless you can appreciate the Corrado for what it is, then you'll end up disappointed when you get back into it if you go for a modern quick car. It'll never match the refinement and build quality, or the speed of a modern hot hatch, but you look cool a F**K and get lots of thumbs up driving a Corrado, as opposed to one of the other fingers driving some other performance orientated car nowadays.

They were added years back as the matrix could sometimes fail and spill hot coolant into the cabin. The valves are pressure relief valves so should the water pressure become too high, it was diverted from the inlet pipe to the outlet pipe. (not flowing through the matrix). Newer matrixes are much more reliable and better put together, so the valves were not needed. To test, just remove both valves and the pipe that connects the two, and run some copper pipe directly to the matrix in their place. This obviously ensures the water passes through the matrix. Found a pic of my old valver when I did it. Remove these.

Ok it sounds like the thermostat is doing its job. Start by bypassing the bypass valves with a bit of copper pipe straight to the matrix. Its quick, cheap, and easy to do so worth working through the possibilities in stages. At that point you could also try flushing the matrix through in both directions but tbh, if its well past its best then flushing won't make a great deal of difference. Once the above is done, replace the heater matrix. If there is no history of it being replaced relatively recently, then its worth doing. To change it, you have to remove the heater box anyway. At this point, you can replace the foam on the directional flap. The directional flap is the one you will be seeing the foam from. A separate small solid plastic flap provides the switching between hot and cold so that will not be the cause of what you're experiencing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corrado-G60-Vr6-Gear-Knob-Insert-Genuine-/221638514819?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item339aaf5883

You mentioned in a previous post that it got warmer when sat in traffic. Right, read the previous post where I said about testing if the thermostat has failed. Once that has been done, we can advise further. It just seems we're going round in circles at the moment..........

I think that rules out 003 being Storm models at least.

Whilst driving yes. As I mentioned in a previous post, if the thermostat is stuck open (the failed state), the water is constantly being cooled by the radiator. When you stop in traffic for a while or sit at a standstill, there is no cold air flow over the radiator, so the water temp will increase and your heater should get warmer.

Turn the car on from cold. Let it idle on the drive. When the top radiator hose starts getting warm, check if the bottom one is as well. The bottom hose should stay relatively cool until the water temp gets to 90 degrees as seen on the gauge. If it gets hot well before, your thermostat needs replacing.

Haha, sorry, but theres a Yaris enthusiasts club!? :lol:

Correct resistance should be around 1.1k ohm. I'd suggest testing again at a lower scale but that seems quite far off. Generally faulty sensors give readings very high or open link, very low, or they fluctuate considerably between the two.

Probably a typo. (well, a hand written one!). My delivery inspection is 31/1/95, with a delivery date of 1/2/95. It's matters nor a great deal to me anyway tbh. I'd like it to be a Storm but I'm not desperate for it to be. They're not a great deal more desirable or worth more in value, so I'm happy with my lot regardless.

What we need is someone with an 8 or 16 valve registered around the same time to check their VIN. If any have 002 or 003 then we'd have a better idea if it was true or not.