seanl82

I used a set of right angled circlip pliers. Turn with one hand, push with the other. Worked a treat!

If you unplug the MAF and go for a spin, it should be immediately obvious if its at fault, as performance and response will be far better! Your MPG will nose dive, and it may cut out eventually when the engine warms up, but you should get an idea. Idle should be fine with it disconnected. I think crank sensors generally give in when the engine is warm too. If you can identify it, give it a little wiggle on the connector where it enters the lump. This is the area that has the most stress, and with constant hot and cold exposure, they get very brittle, and the insulation breaks down causing the wires to short.

Probably worth changing all the gear linkage bushes. They are really cheap and pretty easy to fit, and as its only a couple of gears, and also the same movement on the selector mechanism as it being 3rd and 5th, this is most likely the case imo.

Does it rise when in traffic or stood still? If it does, but drops down again when in motion it would point to a faulty stat.

You need to go the opposite way with this! smaller wheels, New coillies but to raise it up a bit, and remove the r36 badge and put on an sdi one or something! You can really show the young uns up at the lights then, and keep them thinking "WTF!" :thumbleft:

Here is a guide I did for my golf3, it's all the same though. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=204972.0

Don't think you can get a paper one tbh. Jetex do cotton ones if you don't want foam though. had a Jetex panel filter in the valver. I Check out their website, worth a look at least. http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/jetexfilters.php

Yeah I had a CAT2 preclusion fitted to my valver, but couldn't find and didn't realise the certificate was mixed in with the paperwork when I got it. Originally insured through Adrian Flux without it being certified, then updated and amended when I found the Certificate and posted them a copy of it. :thumbleft:

Have you tried jumping it? Click could just be the battery proper dead! If it is, it may not start even with a jump, but it may turn over. At least then you can diagnose it a bit more accurately.

Halfords is easy to get a trade card from. Anyone in the engineering trade be it motor or not, can get one with proof. I got one with production of my forces ID card, and just had to tell them I was an engineer. (I am, but if I'd lied they wouldn't be any the wiser.)

I wasn't under the impression that the account numbers were branch specific? As I've mentioned above, if they are available to other forums, an admin could hold the account number, and we PM them asking for it when required, to quote over the counter for cash sales maybe.........

Not sure if its the same on the VR, but on the valvers, there is a vacuum pipe on the bottom of the TB. Its hard to locate by feel alone, and you can't really see it. Might be worth checking it out, or getting someone to turn it over whilst you stick your hand where the noise seems to be originating from. Radio removal shouldn't affect immob, and even if it did, the car would start but cut out after a couple of seconds if the immob was cutting in.

Its always worse underneath! It looks pretty bad as it is from the outside, so I definately think its gonna need repair work.

I've no idea tbf. It's kinda second hand information, one forum saying that other forums have it. Even if its 8% discount, the fact that most won't sell to the general public any more anyway would be a blessing. Trade discount would be better though obviously! Being a relatively small community may be advantageous though, as most owners are now enthusiasts and would do their own spannering. This could only be of benefit as it won't be like every man and his dog will be using it. Figuratively speaking, if one of the Admin hold an account Number for the forum, and we have to PM him to get the number, this can then be regulated so as not everyone can get access to it through a google search. Its an option at the end of the day. I'd do it myself but as there isn't a branch too local to me and I don't hold an account, it may be better coming from someone face to face, who's familiar and has a good rapport with the staff. All that's mentioned here could be said to kind of twist their arm maybe............

I've read on other forums about the Forum holding a cash sale account at TPS. Anyone have a local branch where they could enquire about it to offer to this Forum? Seems like a great thing to utilise as a community if we could get hold of one, as most now are very strict on selling to Trade only. May have to come from one of the Admin staff possibly....... Any thoughts?

You could get on mortgage on a 3 bed semi Oop Norf for that! :lol:

Its because most dealerships are not fully run by the manufacturers any more. Most are now franchises, and operate solely to earn as much cash as possible, whilst living off the brand name.

Early interiors can fitted into late cars and vice versa I think, except for door cards. Door handles and electric window switches are in a different place. Yeah some late interiors made it into earlier cars too. Late model leather is better, but earlier cloth is better imo. Earlier leather is harder to find though, and late cloth doesn't always have the hump, which looks odd imo. I prefer the pattern and colours of earlier ones too.

1.8 16v and G60 have the early interior, 2.0 16v, VR6 and 2.0 8v had late interior, although there was a crossover where some earlier interiors were fitted to late cars (all that was left in the parts bin I suppose.) Changeover period was 93. Everything else was an option anyway apart from the Storm which had it all.

I would have thought it would be fine. I know what you mean about pricing though, I always get prices from the Dealer, TPS, and GSF/ECP/CP4L, and if there isn't too much in it, I will get genuine. When it costs this much, and there is such a difference though, I'd not hesitate to use GSF. They are a big company at the end of the day, therefore will have the resources to re-supply (and pay for fitting) should it go within the warranty period that usually matches VWs own anyway.

You will find that with 99.9% of brand new cars will have orange peel and various other polishing swirls from the factory. iirc from the Top Gear episode, although it says "hand crafted in England", they are shipped in as a top spec aygo, and Aston then just basically bolts a few things on, and doubles the price!

Only a handful of 16v-G60s were ever made I believe. You'd be extremely lucky to find a genuine original one for sale anywhere in the world!

Cant really offer any advice, but the £264 you spent buying back the scrap head, would surely have paid an independent to fit a brand new genuine belt anyway. Seems extremely finicky to me.

Indeed, CG Jetseal 109 is a fantastic sealant for wheels and exhaust. A couple of coats will last 5-6 months.

If the battery voltage gets too low, it wont start even when trying to jump it.