seanl82

Theres no K-Jet either though!

Tensioner is too tight would be my guess. I know its a chain so I can't talk from experience but when I did the belt on my Golf3, and over tightened the belt/tensioner, it sounded like a supercharger from the mad max films! Get your head under the bonnet to try and narrow it down slightly more where its coming from mate.

Crank sensor possibly???

Id second the above. I did my own last time, and as said the hub bolt only needs to be nipped up. I did mine too tight, and as soon as the bearing got hot (pretty quickly with alot of friction due to being too tight) the bearing expanded due to the heat, had nowhere to go outwards, so pretty much imploded and disintigrated the bearing! Arse end started wobbling all over the place! Needed a new stub axle in the end too as it had scored it so much. Take it back and demand they do it again free of charge, whilst also pointing out that its a tapred bearing therefore not to be done too tight!

Chains, tensioner and guides. Not cheap though! A good inspection of chain at least, tensioner and mk4 guide upgrade almost certainly as they all have to come off anyway, so seems silly not to change em whilst your at it. Or you could do it all yourself for not much more than you would pay a garage to change the HG alone anyway.........

Blue caps are the updated version. The old black one were renowned for not venting, or venting too early. Worth upgrading to the blue if you dont already have that one as its a common cause of failure

If its the one further down, It bolts on to the front engine mount/start motor

Runs up the chassis leg, then the bracket I think your talking about bolts to the underside of the slam panel I think

Looks like its been put there by someone previously mate. Cap has a seal further in than the thread iirc. It seals over the top of the hole on the tank, rather than the threaded part iirc

No MAF on 1.8 Valvers. Clean out the ISV, but Id say cold start injector possibly as well. Start with the cheap stuff though like the temp sensor, and cleaning out tb and isv. Probably wont help with fuel consumption, but may help with lumpy idle and isolate the problem a bit more. Fuel additives wont make much difference to clean the injectors though. It either replace, or send em off to be ultrasonically cleaned. If u go for a cleaner though, BG44k is the best of the lot imo.

There is a how to in the wiki section. You can manage it without removing the dash, but its a ******* of a job all the same. Good luck with it!

Hes quite a prolific poster on there, and is a member on here also although doesnt frequent this forum very often. He too is converting a Corrado with the abf, but I thinkhe has hit some hurdles too. He has a massive barn with a four post lift so he could be very useful. He knows his way around a car too so thats a bonus. Just dont upset him as he can have an acid tongue at times! lol

If the ISV is out of tolerence, no amount of cleaning will help tbh. If you can get your hands on a known good one from someone local (all engine types use the same iirc), swap it out and see if it cures it. As far as the water temps go, does it get to temperature when stationary, then go down when in motion, or is it constantly low? If its constantly low, then thats more likely to be a sensor problem. Otherwise its more likely to be the stat. Might be worth changing the stat anyway if you have no history of it being done, as they are pretty common problems.

As above mate, Cheap fix and eash to do.

Its held onto the oil pump pickup by 3 or 4 clips. If you drop the sump, you cant miss it. Its just a flat piece of plastic running forward to back inside the sump, but connected to the pickup. It stops the oil sloshing around the sump and starving the pump when cornering. The clips become very brittle with age and easily break loose.

Yeah the black is an updated version of the old brown. I think its set at a slightly higher pressure too. (from 1.2 to 1.3 bar iirc). May be worth checking the baffle then mate.

Back to the pads and polishes, I use 3M and rate them very highly as well. The fact they are colour coded is great for a simplton like me too! The Green Fast Cut Plus polish is very harsh though. It dries out very quickly too, so you need to use a very small amount, and keep it lubed up. Start off with a small panel (front wing), and figure out what best gives you the required cut. Start with a finishing polish with finishing pad (3M ultrafina with blue pad). Then work up the pad to a yellow if required. If you still require more cutting, go for the extra fine compound (yellow top) and blue pad. Then yellow pad if required, etc etc, you get the picture. Once swirls are out and if you have gone to a more aggressive cut (remember to be very very careful with how much paint you are taking off!), you may need to refine it anyway by going for a second pass using a finishing polish and pad.

Are there any of the obvious indications of water in oil, or oil in water? Thats the most definitive test you can do at home without a compression or sniff test.

Maybe worth dropping the sump again. I had it for ages on my KR. Changed everything I could think of, cleaned pickup, renewed oil pump and all seals etc, only noticed the second time, that one of the clips on the sump baffle was broken off. Turns out as the pump was sucking up, it was making the pickup pivot a little and block the pickup very slightly, but enough to reduce pressure below the limits. Mine was happening when cold, when warm, below and above 2k rpm,but always randomly. Thinking back, it only really left the the pump and associated parts, and the clocks. Do that to yours to narrow down the possibilities, as there are two sensors for oil pressure. One for below 2k rpm, and one for above. Try it with the engine up to temp too.

Check for any dampness at all under your drivers side mat. The channels run back so any water that comes in the front will drain to the rear, hence creating the puddle in the rear footwell. This will give you an indication as to how far forward the water is actuallt coming in. Also, do you park facing downward on a slight incline? This could be why you dont notice it as much when the car has been standing......

Great cars but parts and servicing cost an absolute fortune. Friend of mine has a V, and the cam pulley sheared off as she was pulling out the drive! Lucky for her it was only pulling off at v low speed and nothing was seriously damaged! They are looking a bit aged now I think though, but still a belter of a car imo

Alright mate, sorry for late reply. I'm not sure if thats it, its hard to make out in the photo and I cant remember tbh. Its basically a damper with a rubber boot. When the throttle returns to idle on the tb, instead of snapping shut, it hits the damper and closes to idle gently. It was underneath towards the back of the tb iirc. It had the locking bolts that I can see on your pic though, and it was set too low iirc. A turn outwards sorted it.As said above, I think I inadvertantly turned it (or was just curious and fiddled!) when I took the tb off to clean it. You may have nudged it when cleaning I suppose. Hope this helps mate.

I had this on my KR so dont know if it will make a difference with yours being a 9a, but mine turned out to be where Id fiddled a little with the throttle damper. A turn forward and locked in place sorted it

As stonejag said, either a loose connection at the battery, a bad earth, or ignition switch.

I can vouch for poor quality from GSF for the droplinks. They should be offset, but when the arrived, they were not. I knew they needed doing, and changed them the day before MOT so had no immediate alternative. They passed MOT fine, but it looked a bit of a bodge and Im not surprised they fail within a couple of years either. Bushes seem poor, the welds were shocking, and without the offset, the sit at an angle slightly causing uneven and premature wear.