seanl82

I know it probably won't make an awful lot of difference, and won't be noticable to the average person, but proper crimp tools are precision made. Like anything, you get what you pay for. They should be specifically set for American Wire Gauge or British Standard, (AWG in almost all circumstances now though), and therefore set to provide a firm grip using decent quality connectors without crushing, or being too loose. If its for low current cable runs, it should be ok, but anything that could cause problems, I wouldn't go near it tbh.

^ Well put. Obviously extreme care needs to be exercised, but seeing as the OP may have to consider this anyway if it doesn't work, and the wet sanding is focused on new paint being put on, I think he may as well throw caution to the wind. Its obviously his call though, and anyone else reading this must seriously think about what they are doing, and do lots of research before attempting anything like that! - In fact, I wouldn't recommend doing that at all unless you are confident you can achieve the desired result.

Just come across this which made me first aware of how safe wet sanding paintwork is, and how much paint it will remove in comparison to machine polishing alone. Obviously bear in mind VAG paint is very hard! http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=244507

Not a pretty sight, feel for you mate. It's gonna take a bit of work, but will cost you far less than going through your insurance or getting a full respray and let's face it, worse case is you still need a respray. First off, get a local reputable body shop to colour match and make you up a small amount of paint. Don't use the halfords style touch up kits. (Although paints4u actually do very good paint matches off the shelf from experience!). Anyway, apply the paint with a cocktail stick, and do it in very small quantities. It may take a fair amount of time, and it may take five or six coats to fill the scratch, but it will be worth it. This will obviously protect it from rust etc too. Give it a couple of days to harden, then start going over it with a small backing pad (slightly larger than your thumb) and some 800 grit wet and dry. follow the scratch line, don't rub it up and down if that makes sense. keep doing it until it is level with the surrounding paint, then fill in any parts that have come away or you missed, and repeat process. Once you happy with the level, go over the area again with 1500, then 2000 grit, then machine polish over. You can do it by hand if you don't have a machine, but may be worth going 3000 grit too to make it easier. You will honestly be surprised at how well it comes out! Most people brick it as soon as you mention sanding paint, but provided you are wary, it no worse than someone with a rotary polished as it takes off far less paint than you would imagine.

Post number 16, I think Porsche wheels look awsome on a C. Bright Lambo colours are for young lads and people who crave attention imo. Colours I also mentioned in post 16.

I forgot to mention shes pregnant with our second! She due beginning of April though, so will be a good summer project for you! Bodywork may require a bit of work after the birth though for obvious reasons! :lol: Also, can I add a set of 312mm brakes up front, and 256 rears please!

1 x Rado as mentioned above. She's worth it, honest........................:scratch:

Something that is realistically achievable and can be/has been done for not a huuuge amount. So; R32, or Supercharged VR both with Haldex or mimimum lsd and final drive mod, in either Black, Silver, Ice Grey, or Blackberry. Heated leather, and blue or red LEDs on interior switches/clocks to bring it up a little. Again dependant on colour, all red or slightly smoked rear lights and crystal or smoked repeaters. KW V3 coils with a set of either Porsche 928, Teledials, or D90s, or Schmidt Modernlines. Anything else costs little, and can be done as and when. That would be my absolutely perfect Rado, and I'd sell the missus for that!!!:lol:

With you reporting 25mpg being very poor, I'm assuming this is a 16v?. First of all whats happening? I'm assuming again that its turning over, if you can smell fuel etc?, although saying about your starter motor has thrown me a little! If my assumptions are correct, first of all check you have spark. If oil from your dizzy has dried around your rotor arm, or on the contacts on the dizzy cap, that could be a good place to start. There are two seals for the dizzy. One for the dizzy itself into the block, and one for the rotor shaft. Could be either that has failed causing the leak, and both available very cheaply from Heritage, although the shaft seal is a bit more work as you have to dismantle the distributor. There is a guide somewhere though (possible in the wiki section)............. If you still have nothing, and assuming its an early valver again, (is the 2.0 16v dizzy or coilpack??:shrug:) anyway, check you've not knocked something around the metering head, as this could cause a fair amount of problems. Otherwise, its a case of using the search function, and seeing the cajillions of threads regarding non starting, and the even more problems that could cause it. (Aftermarket/factory immob, ignition switch, blah blah.....). Good luck with sorting it mate.

Yeah by checking for spark at the plug, your proving the coil, dizzy, rotor and leads. Yeah should have mentioned that you could get a belt if you're holding the plug itself. I usually just position it in a way that it supports itself against the block, with the electrode facing the back, so when you turn it over from the drivers position, you can see it sparking through the gap at the bottom of the bonnet when its up.

If it stink of fuel, at least your getting it, which is one thing in the long list. Next check for spark. Remove a plug and earth the casing out by placing it on the block, then turn the car over and check your getting spark. Its then time to start guessing unless you can plug it into vcds. If you have an aftermarket alarm and immobiliser, that would probably my next port of call mate

If you click on the link and look on the picture, there's a great big caption on the bottom right that says ' now with roller bearing drawers' or words to that effect.:lol: Fair enough though for those that have experience with them and their quality, I was just throwing it out there. :thumbleft:

More important than the turkey imo! :lol:

Fair enough both. I don't have either the funds, or space for any or them though unfortunately. I have a reasonable amount of tools, but they're all thrown in a couple of large stanley tool boxes! I have a Halfords trade card too which I could get a decent amount off, and MachineMart offer 20% discount to Forces Personnel, so again if I desperately need anything, I have that to fall back on. I was under the impression the MachineMart bundles had the foam inserts to keep the tools in order etc though............... Hey ho, again happy to be corrected. :)

Or you can have one similar full of tools for not much more................ http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht624-mechanics-tool-chest-and-tools-p

Kids in bed, mince pie and glass of milk out for santa, and a carrot for rudolf! (kids didnt think santa would like cider though for some reason!) Guess Ill have to drink the cider myself ay! Lol

The difference in the bonnets are that the early C's have a recessed bonnet, so looking from the front its -_- whereas the later bonnet is raised in the middle, so _-_ If you can make sense of that! ---------- Post added at 6:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:26 PM ---------- The difference in the bonnets are that the early C's have a recessed bonnet, so looking from the front its -_- whereas the later bonnet is raised in the middle, so _-_ If you can make sense of that!

I saw the documentary on it a while back, was quite funny really! And yes, their lack of understanding is hard to believe, but it is true. What they think can cure Aids is even worse though. :(

Oh and the mounting points are the same too!

Cant see there being a problem provided the kr alternator will provide enough juice, and the pulleys are the same or swapped mate.

Early valver bonnet dips in at the middle, the VR is too big, hence the reason it was changed when the vr's came in to a raised middle part. The clocks are different, as the rev counter is lower (7k iirc) on the VR, where as it goes to 8k on the valver, top speed is also different I think, so speedo drive will show incorrect speed. Not only will the revs be off too, but early valvers took revs via vacuum pipe at the back of the clocks, whereas the vr takes it electrically from the ecu. Thats also the reason for loom probably. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!

Been to manheim auction in Cornwall a couple of times, and all the cars are parked up and can be view prior to auction. They all have a sales note in the window (milage, service history, mot expiry etc) but are locked up. You can have a visual check before the start, but cannot start them up, or check under bonnet ect. As mentioned though, you have an hour window after sale to check everything I believe. I'm sure its the same at BCA too, and usually there is a seperate auction for traders and commercial on a different day. You do have to pay for membership now though, so if you want to bid, they have all your details. Think membership is about £15 so not gonna break the bank. As mentioned, go along and enjoy the day. Gives you a feel for the atmosphere and will help you relax in the place when it comes to the day you buy. You wont get carried away with bidding then! Lol

I had a solid front, and fast road rear and GB mounts in the valver. I cant recommend them enough! Almost no cabin vibration, but very solid feel and very little engine movement under heavy load. Worth every penny imo!

Whole front running gear, subframe, bonnet as well to your list mate. Clocks, ecu, wiring loom etc etc

I think it will need to be carefully managed though. Donations from CCGB to here must be where it stops, otherwise you run the risk of this forum offering almost everything that CCGB offers for free, and diminishing memberships further. They need to remain completely separate entities imo. I know thats what is being suggested, but in 2,3,5 years time, things may change, and the club would be up the creak so to speak.