seanl82

If your only after basic fault finding, download VCDS Lite from the Rosstech website - its free, and get a generic ebay lead for less than a tenner. :thumbleft:

Where are you based? Maybe someone is local and could give you a hand to save you some pennies?

Just stumbled upon this so sorry to interrupt, but that digi gauge looks the mutts! Green LED counter would make it look quite OEM too!

288mm were on the all mk3 GTI from 95 onward, so you will be able to get them from the 8v versions too. :thumbleft:

I did the engine on my golf with that when the old one died a horrible death. You are right, it was very chalky, and didn't quite go off. I've recently done the rear drums on the missus's Fabia with a tin that was left over though, and used Acid Etch as a base coat (even though the VHT says you don't need it) and it went on really well, and is now nice and solid without chalking off on your finger when rubbed. I put it on top of the Etch Primer within 10 minutes to kind of wet mix it, and its adhered much better. :thumbleft:

When is the wedding, and how much are you expecting to get for the Corrado? I'll be in a position to buy in March/April. :silent:

Don't think its worth it, with the amount of work required, even if you can fit an additional gear into the box. Much more common thing is to fit a lower ratio 5th gear, to drop revs down a bit.

It was pretty awsome! Some seriously mental cars on there! Cant believe there are young lads that go from all over the country to film them though!

I know it probably won't make an awful lot of difference, and won't be noticable to the average person, but proper crimp tools are precision made. Like anything, you get what you pay for. They should be specifically set for American Wire Gauge or British Standard, (AWG in almost all circumstances now though), and therefore set to provide a firm grip using decent quality connectors without crushing, or being too loose. If its for low current cable runs, it should be ok, but anything that could cause problems, I wouldn't go near it tbh.

^ Well put. Obviously extreme care needs to be exercised, but seeing as the OP may have to consider this anyway if it doesn't work, and the wet sanding is focused on new paint being put on, I think he may as well throw caution to the wind. Its obviously his call though, and anyone else reading this must seriously think about what they are doing, and do lots of research before attempting anything like that! - In fact, I wouldn't recommend doing that at all unless you are confident you can achieve the desired result.

Just come across this which made me first aware of how safe wet sanding paintwork is, and how much paint it will remove in comparison to machine polishing alone. Obviously bear in mind VAG paint is very hard! http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=244507

Not a pretty sight, feel for you mate. It's gonna take a bit of work, but will cost you far less than going through your insurance or getting a full respray and let's face it, worse case is you still need a respray. First off, get a local reputable body shop to colour match and make you up a small amount of paint. Don't use the halfords style touch up kits. (Although paints4u actually do very good paint matches off the shelf from experience!). Anyway, apply the paint with a cocktail stick, and do it in very small quantities. It may take a fair amount of time, and it may take five or six coats to fill the scratch, but it will be worth it. This will obviously protect it from rust etc too. Give it a couple of days to harden, then start going over it with a small backing pad (slightly larger than your thumb) and some 800 grit wet and dry. follow the scratch line, don't rub it up and down if that makes sense. keep doing it until it is level with the surrounding paint, then fill in any parts that have come away or you missed, and repeat process. Once you happy with the level, go over the area again with 1500, then 2000 grit, then machine polish over. You can do it by hand if you don't have a machine, but may be worth going 3000 grit too to make it easier. You will honestly be surprised at how well it comes out! Most people brick it as soon as you mention sanding paint, but provided you are wary, it no worse than someone with a rotary polished as it takes off far less paint than you would imagine.

Post number 16, I think Porsche wheels look awsome on a C. Bright Lambo colours are for young lads and people who crave attention imo. Colours I also mentioned in post 16.

I forgot to mention shes pregnant with our second! She due beginning of April though, so will be a good summer project for you! Bodywork may require a bit of work after the birth though for obvious reasons! :lol: Also, can I add a set of 312mm brakes up front, and 256 rears please!

1 x Rado as mentioned above. She's worth it, honest........................:scratch:

Something that is realistically achievable and can be/has been done for not a huuuge amount. So; R32, or Supercharged VR both with Haldex or mimimum lsd and final drive mod, in either Black, Silver, Ice Grey, or Blackberry. Heated leather, and blue or red LEDs on interior switches/clocks to bring it up a little. Again dependant on colour, all red or slightly smoked rear lights and crystal or smoked repeaters. KW V3 coils with a set of either Porsche 928, Teledials, or D90s, or Schmidt Modernlines. Anything else costs little, and can be done as and when. That would be my absolutely perfect Rado, and I'd sell the missus for that!!!:lol:

With you reporting 25mpg being very poor, I'm assuming this is a 16v?. First of all whats happening? I'm assuming again that its turning over, if you can smell fuel etc?, although saying about your starter motor has thrown me a little! If my assumptions are correct, first of all check you have spark. If oil from your dizzy has dried around your rotor arm, or on the contacts on the dizzy cap, that could be a good place to start. There are two seals for the dizzy. One for the dizzy itself into the block, and one for the rotor shaft. Could be either that has failed causing the leak, and both available very cheaply from Heritage, although the shaft seal is a bit more work as you have to dismantle the distributor. There is a guide somewhere though (possible in the wiki section)............. If you still have nothing, and assuming its an early valver again, (is the 2.0 16v dizzy or coilpack??:shrug:) anyway, check you've not knocked something around the metering head, as this could cause a fair amount of problems. Otherwise, its a case of using the search function, and seeing the cajillions of threads regarding non starting, and the even more problems that could cause it. (Aftermarket/factory immob, ignition switch, blah blah.....). Good luck with sorting it mate.

Yeah by checking for spark at the plug, your proving the coil, dizzy, rotor and leads. Yeah should have mentioned that you could get a belt if you're holding the plug itself. I usually just position it in a way that it supports itself against the block, with the electrode facing the back, so when you turn it over from the drivers position, you can see it sparking through the gap at the bottom of the bonnet when its up.

If it stink of fuel, at least your getting it, which is one thing in the long list. Next check for spark. Remove a plug and earth the casing out by placing it on the block, then turn the car over and check your getting spark. Its then time to start guessing unless you can plug it into vcds. If you have an aftermarket alarm and immobiliser, that would probably my next port of call mate

If you click on the link and look on the picture, there's a great big caption on the bottom right that says ' now with roller bearing drawers' or words to that effect.:lol: Fair enough though for those that have experience with them and their quality, I was just throwing it out there. :thumbleft:

More important than the turkey imo! :lol:

Fair enough both. I don't have either the funds, or space for any or them though unfortunately. I have a reasonable amount of tools, but they're all thrown in a couple of large stanley tool boxes! I have a Halfords trade card too which I could get a decent amount off, and MachineMart offer 20% discount to Forces Personnel, so again if I desperately need anything, I have that to fall back on. I was under the impression the MachineMart bundles had the foam inserts to keep the tools in order etc though............... Hey ho, again happy to be corrected. :)

Or you can have one similar full of tools for not much more................ http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cht624-mechanics-tool-chest-and-tools-p

Kids in bed, mince pie and glass of milk out for santa, and a carrot for rudolf! (kids didnt think santa would like cider though for some reason!) Guess Ill have to drink the cider myself ay! Lol

The difference in the bonnets are that the early C's have a recessed bonnet, so looking from the front its -_- whereas the later bonnet is raised in the middle, so _-_ If you can make sense of that! ---------- Post added at 6:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:26 PM ---------- The difference in the bonnets are that the early C's have a recessed bonnet, so looking from the front its -_- whereas the later bonnet is raised in the middle, so _-_ If you can make sense of that!