seanl82

I've heard of people using it wheels actually. Its more robust in the whole than powdercoating, but shows scratches much more iirc. Depends where your using it I suppose, but I'd ensure the bits being done are 100% clean of any rust, as it doesn't adhere to the actual surface so much as mould around it, therefore giving breathing space for rust to oxidise and spread underneath.

More than likely just the seal, but its gearbox off to replace it obviously. I'd be more concerned about the damage that could have been caused by running it dry. Do you have any grinding or engagement issues when selecting gear?

More likely you have an earth somewhere mate. Do an earth check to eliminate that, as its free if you have a multimeter. Mine used to go flat after about 4 or 5 days, and it transpired to be my uprated headlight loom had been catching of the rad fan, burning through the insulation, and shorting out on the fan cowling. You can also check your alternator wiring with a multimeter. :thumbleft:

God I wish I had the cash right now. :sad: Search goes on until the money comes through, hopefully within the next few months though.

Not me. I've just put a deposit on a Fabia 1.4 MPI. Yes I know its slooooooow, but its mainly for the missus to run around in. Its absolutely mint, 38k, FSSH, 12 Months MOT, and 5 Months Tax. Was a PX at the dealership, and cost £1500. Not too bad considering the milage I think. The insurance is seriously low too! Thats the best part as not many young chavs drive them to death, and who steals a Skoda! :smug:

Have a good look for all earths that may have been removed whilst removing the immobiliser. If they're all at points, ensure they're nice and tight.

Probs just the mk2 boys, or even the mk4 boys as they have to try to shift focus from their fat arsed lardy cars themselves! :lol:

You can still get them from the dealer. About £55 per side iirc mate. Are you on GolfGTIforum? Usually very helpful in there. Alternatively do a search in there as it comes up a fair amount. :thumbleft:

I'd go with the dealer one for not alot more mate. Could be that a piece of the impeller has snapped off and wedged itself in between itself and the casing, although I'm only speculating there. Does it still spin freely and with no end float now you've removed it?

Yeah £500-£550 in good knick, polished, with tyres is about right, and their ceiling price tbh. Still a reasonable price imo, and don't think you'd have too much bother shifting them. Good luck! :thumbleft:

May broaden your market, although I'd expect them to shift relatively quickly regardless. Depends how much your after I suppose, and personally I'd clean take them back and polish em up if you have the means, equipment and patients.

As Cazza said, just twist off anti-clockwise. They are notorious for being a PITA getting undone though, you just have to be a bit forceful with it and persevere mate.

Don't think so, but not 100%. Pretty sure they just slot in though. Could be that your throttle cable is binding on the outer sleeve and not releasing properly, so there's slack when your up and down on the peddle causing it to fall out the slot. Have you noticed any problems with it holding revs a little too long?

Stewarding, on site ambulances, clerical admin, etc etc......... Not saying that would cost more than their income, but there are obviously expenditures there.

Exactly. This is why I suggested as above.

Change the header tank cap for a newer style blue one first, the older black ones are a common ploblem in that they fail to open and vent excess pressure. If this still doesnt solve it, do as C M suggests and bleed it all through again. Very straight forward to do, just remove the cap and run the engine stationary until up to temp. rev to about 2.5k every 30 seconds, for 30 seconds. In between, massage the water pipes to force the air out. Do this a dozen times or so, until coolant rises to the top of the header tank. Switch off, top up the coolant, job done.

Someone mentions about their car not starting, then being fine when after a bit of a temperature drop iirc. I didnt look through the whole thread again sorry mate but I think its in there somewhere.

Here you go bud. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update Do a search.

Most put it in front or on the side of the battery stuck with sticky pads or similar mate. Depends what motor you have with regards to space, but inner chassis leg is even an option. Just in front of the battery would be my reccommendation though, as you can route and hide cabling in existing runs if its all wrapped up nicely.

You should be able to tell just by moving the panel switch. If there is resistance there, it should be fine. If you take off the lower dash parts in the footwells, you should be able to see mate.

They're in the right place/order but don't bet on them working properly. They look to have been replaced under recall by VW - originally both were metal. When I got my valver, I had the same problem. I ran a hose through my matrix and thought all was good, put copper pipe in to bypass the bypasses..........., and changed thermostat, seal and housing, and still didn't get warm air. Changed the matrix, and got nice toasty heaters. :cheers: I put the bypasses back in, but it didn't work again, so just left the copper pipe on there. They are obsolete from the dealer as well I believe, and as I used a genuine mk3 golf matrix to replace, I didn't really need em anyway.

I was gonna say possibly Dizzy cap, as the rev on start up sometimes "sparks" it into life on an individual cylinder. You then mentioned cutting out and stalling etc so I'd say probably not on that, although rotor arm would possibly cause it.

And by doing a bit of work on a Valver, enhances confidence in carrying out work yourself, thus reducing Garage bills when the time comes to get a VR, making it that bit cheaper for what is a more expensive car to maintain!

Yeah sorry mate, if you were taking the engine out totally, obviously a crane would be ideal. No need though if your gonna just replace the gasket though. You won't need the multi spline bits for the clutch if your not doing that, but will need the multi spline sockets for the head bolts. May as well change the Cam belt and tensioner as you'll need to take it off as well anyway.

Could it not be engine mounts? Obviously you would have movement all over the range, but at low revs when the engine struggles pulling away a little, I think it would be all the more obvious. I'm just speculating by the way, I've never had duff mounts so don't even know the proper symptoms of it, but it makes sense in my head!:nuts: