seanl82

I'd go with the dealer one for not alot more mate. Could be that a piece of the impeller has snapped off and wedged itself in between itself and the casing, although I'm only speculating there. Does it still spin freely and with no end float now you've removed it?

Yeah £500-£550 in good knick, polished, with tyres is about right, and their ceiling price tbh. Still a reasonable price imo, and don't think you'd have too much bother shifting them. Good luck! :thumbleft:

May broaden your market, although I'd expect them to shift relatively quickly regardless. Depends how much your after I suppose, and personally I'd clean take them back and polish em up if you have the means, equipment and patients.

As Cazza said, just twist off anti-clockwise. They are notorious for being a PITA getting undone though, you just have to be a bit forceful with it and persevere mate.

Don't think so, but not 100%. Pretty sure they just slot in though. Could be that your throttle cable is binding on the outer sleeve and not releasing properly, so there's slack when your up and down on the peddle causing it to fall out the slot. Have you noticed any problems with it holding revs a little too long?

Stewarding, on site ambulances, clerical admin, etc etc......... Not saying that would cost more than their income, but there are obviously expenditures there.

Exactly. This is why I suggested as above.

Change the header tank cap for a newer style blue one first, the older black ones are a common ploblem in that they fail to open and vent excess pressure. If this still doesnt solve it, do as C M suggests and bleed it all through again. Very straight forward to do, just remove the cap and run the engine stationary until up to temp. rev to about 2.5k every 30 seconds, for 30 seconds. In between, massage the water pipes to force the air out. Do this a dozen times or so, until coolant rises to the top of the header tank. Switch off, top up the coolant, job done.

Someone mentions about their car not starting, then being fine when after a bit of a temperature drop iirc. I didnt look through the whole thread again sorry mate but I think its in there somewhere.

Here you go bud. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41192-For-those-with-hot-start-problems-lil-update Do a search.

Most put it in front or on the side of the battery stuck with sticky pads or similar mate. Depends what motor you have with regards to space, but inner chassis leg is even an option. Just in front of the battery would be my reccommendation though, as you can route and hide cabling in existing runs if its all wrapped up nicely.

You should be able to tell just by moving the panel switch. If there is resistance there, it should be fine. If you take off the lower dash parts in the footwells, you should be able to see mate.

They're in the right place/order but don't bet on them working properly. They look to have been replaced under recall by VW - originally both were metal. When I got my valver, I had the same problem. I ran a hose through my matrix and thought all was good, put copper pipe in to bypass the bypasses..........., and changed thermostat, seal and housing, and still didn't get warm air. Changed the matrix, and got nice toasty heaters. :cheers: I put the bypasses back in, but it didn't work again, so just left the copper pipe on there. They are obsolete from the dealer as well I believe, and as I used a genuine mk3 golf matrix to replace, I didn't really need em anyway.

I was gonna say possibly Dizzy cap, as the rev on start up sometimes "sparks" it into life on an individual cylinder. You then mentioned cutting out and stalling etc so I'd say probably not on that, although rotor arm would possibly cause it.

And by doing a bit of work on a Valver, enhances confidence in carrying out work yourself, thus reducing Garage bills when the time comes to get a VR, making it that bit cheaper for what is a more expensive car to maintain!

Yeah sorry mate, if you were taking the engine out totally, obviously a crane would be ideal. No need though if your gonna just replace the gasket though. You won't need the multi spline bits for the clutch if your not doing that, but will need the multi spline sockets for the head bolts. May as well change the Cam belt and tensioner as you'll need to take it off as well anyway.

Could it not be engine mounts? Obviously you would have movement all over the range, but at low revs when the engine struggles pulling away a little, I think it would be all the more obvious. I'm just speculating by the way, I've never had duff mounts so don't even know the proper symptoms of it, but it makes sense in my head!:nuts:

Glad you've decided to do it mate! You'll need minimum 2 axle stands, trolley jack, hire an engine crane or buy one if you prefer, torque wrench, multi spline socket set, clutch alignment tool, and lots of basic tools. Not sure which manual you'll need. Passat workshop manual iirc. It will tell you in there of specific tools you need. It also gives good tips on how to fabricate your own tools for certain jobs so you dont need to buy expensive stuff you will never need again! (hopefully!). I'm sure someone will be along if I've missed anything. Good luck mate, and look forward to the outcome!

Mine were through TSR motorsport.

I had no auto mechanical knowledge when the oil cooler went on my mk3 golf, I was on the motorway at the time and didnt realise until my water temp was in the red. I checked oil temp on mfa straight away, and it was at the upper limit. I tried to make it from Exeter to Bristol (my destination), but only got as far as Taunton before it finally gave up the ghost. Massive engine temps, resulted in blown HG too so it was bye bye. I hired an engine crane, sourced a new lump for £50 and did it all myself, replacing loads and painting up the block like new! New clutch, lightened flywheel, new water pump, all gaskets and belts, and it all cost me less than the garage quoted me to skim the head and replace the gasket! Internet forums really are a massive wealth of knowledge, and I did it all with a haynes manual, and a forum, and some basic tools! Honestly, worth a go yourself, you'll grow in confidence with every step mate!

You need to check where its leaking from first. When you switch off, stay with the car. Pop the bonnet, check the header tank, and check under the car to see if theres any evidence of a leak. You may be able to see a leak, by looking for white crystal deposits around pipework, block, or radiator etc. By the amount thats going each time though, it may be that its just water left and very little coolant. Put some coolant in otherwise it may be just evaporating with the heat under the bonnet where its leaking. There is another possibility, but you've not mentioned rough running, and I dont wanna scare you yet!

It depends on the local authority. I did one about 18 months ago, and it was £60 for the course, or £60 fine and 3 points, so it was a bit of a no brainer at the time. I was doing 36 in a 30. Unfortunately 2 weeks after the course I got caught in Bristol (again) on the ring road by a mobile camera doing 69 in a 50, (in my defence parts of it are 70 and others are 50 so I was unaware). It should tell you, or provide a web address to where the centres are located, prices for the course, and ask you what dates are best for you. Your not treated like a crim on them, at the end of the day you were just speeding. They are very informal, with tea and biscuits, bit of a powerpoint presentation, group discussions, and a few very basic questions.

Nice! Love the fact the stickers are on the toilet, probably more for the fact you'd throw up if you open the lid than not to use the water!

What was paid for it shouldnt matter so long as it wasn't high end. I paid £550 for my valver, and the history was phenomenal. All that needed doing was a heater matrix, and the immobiliser packed in a month after I got it. As said, its far mote hassle than you'd think breaking it, and you can guarantee there will be tons of stuff you just wont shift cluttering the place up! If your confident enough, do it yourself for very little, or get a recommended garage to do it for whats actually not a great deal more. All the best.

As you say, I believe that the majority of VW Dealerships here are now Franchises, therefore Customer Services will vary from place to place.