seanl82

The only real way to make the revs drop quicker is to get the flywheel lightened. With less weight there is less inertia so it will slow quicker. If you've got a spare belt, well worth changing it. Less than a fiver for a new one from ECP/GSF regardless. I have a KR, and I found second gear to be seriously looooonnnnnnnnngggggggggg! lol! First is quite short tbh, but 2nd will put you past 70 til the limiter kicks in! Mine takes a while to drop off revs, more so when cold for some reason though?. :shrug:

Sounds like an earth somewhere. Could well have been bought on by water though. Worth checking all engine bay earths are all clean and secure as a first step.

I have vibratech mounts on mine, with the front being solid. They were on when I bought the car, and receipts show they were fitted in 2008 at TSR in Bridgewater. All is well, and I think they are pretty good, with no excessive vibration at idle. They aren't cheap though iirc, but you may be able to get a good deal on them. Also never heard of any problems with pattern parts from GSF/ECP if your sceptical about them.

I just used circlip pliers last time. Remove the fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. That was on a golf 3 though, so not entirely sure of the setup as I've not looked at my 16v. If the pistons have 2 holes, you should be hot to trot. :smug:

Went to Bristol in it over the w.end. Performed faultlessly there and Back (Plymouth), and showed up the mk2 focus, and 3 series beamer that were trying to get up my sisters road on Sunday Morning! They were struggling to get up it, and as I came down and saw the ice, I thought "oh no, I'm gonna struggle getting back up". No such problems on my 205/50/15 budgets though, and left them merrily spinning away! :smug:

As you've said, a compressor and air lines is a v.good idea. A plain workbench with vice is a good idea too, as well as a shelving area etc...... Maybe a hydraulic press either freestanding or bench mounted would be a good idea, and can be had for less than a ton for the keen diy'er. Get a machine mart catalogue and go through all of it. Ive planned my dream garage out a million times on paper, now just have to find about 30k to achieve it though! Lol.

Rowan, is there any chance you could post up a sort of guide or parts list required for stickying. As you said there's not much info about, and I'm thinking of doing it in the summer. I'm sure others will think this too in the not to distant future with KR's dying and ABFs readily available from rusty old mk3s! Would make a good knowledge base as to how you go about it, parts needed, apparent obstacles and ways round them etc etc...........

Water temps shouldnt get above the low 90's though. Rad fan will kick in before it reaches above that, so unless your engine temps are uber high, the fan should be sufficient to cool the water in conjunction with weather at the moment!

Sorry to hijack the thread, but with regard to the cheap looms through ebay, I believe this is what was fitted to my car when I bought it, and I have an earth somewhere although not investigated fully yet. The relays click as soon as the battery is connected, although the lights dont come on. All lights working as they should when switched on and off, but is it correct that the relays engage with power from battery only? or should they only engage when switched on? Thanks guys.

Dunno about the flush tbh, sorry! But 3 litres and the rest distiller water is all that VW use regardless. 50/50 with water will be good down to about -40, so a little extra water will see you good in our mildish weather (although it feels like the south bloody pole right now!). To fill, go from expansion tank with top rad hose slightly off to release air. Fill slowly, and disconnect coil and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times during filling to circulate a little. When water starts coming out of top rad hose, connect it back up, then fill to max on expansion tank. Carry on with normal bleeding routine and top up as required.:smug:

Cheers mate your a ledge, but how much!!!!!

Hi Gents/Ladies. The lower window seal type thing on my passanger door is perished, mouldy and mis-shaped. I've been looking for one online (fleabay) and can only find the door seal. :scratch: Does anyone know the actual name to help in my search. Its the one between the door and the bottom of the window that runs from wing mirror to past the door handle if that makes sense. A part number and price would be even more helpful too! :thumbleft:

You can get a Mk3 golf 16v flywheel and clutch if their the same as they use 02a boxes, whereas the mk3 8v uses the 020 box as well. I'm sure someone would know if these are compatible so you can widen your search.

I was looking at brushes a couple of weeks ago. There was only one set on eBay at the time, but may be more now. Get the part number off your alternator as a reference, as there are a couple of variations, hence the reason I could only find 1. There were a couple more for other variations than mine though. The one I was looking at was on an auction from a trade seller, and went for a fiver plus 3 quid delivery to give you an idea on how little you can get em for.

I've always found ecar to be cheapest when insuring for up to about a week, but never had to do it longer. Have you asked your usual insurer? May look favourably on you rather than using a comparison site as your obviously already a customer.

As above. And first up, give em both a wash!

The original in mine was one of the round bike lock type key switches inside the glove box. The last one thats just been removed was a preclusion immobiliser, and I had to wave the fob across the steering wheel shroud at the bottom. If your DIY'ing it, I'm sure some sort of key switch hidden somewhere, and fitted inline to ignition supply or even fuel pump would be fine. Would be very easy to do if you splice it in behind the ignition switch.

Sounds like the belt is too tight to me. Loosen it a little as a first step and see how you get on.

Finally got round to going over all panels with the rotary after being rained off so many times. This is my first full car so I'm deffo no expert, but I was really pleased with the results tbh. Just used some Megs Ultimate compound, and a 3M Green Compounding Pad. Exterior Trim plastics were done using AG Bumper care, and tyres using some Turtle wax stuff I had lying around - although its actually quite good imo. Need to go over it a couple of times again with a finishing pad and DJ limeprime, and finish it with Jetseal 109, and Collinite wax. Well thats the plan! For now though, it was just gone over with AG SRP, and DJ need for speed! lol. This was done like this as I'm going to the Southwest Dubs meet in Exeter tomorrow, so just wanted it looking reasonable for the moment. Anyway here are a few more pics, not the best camera but you should get the idea. Will try to get some tomorrow when its been washed and dressed again early in the morning. Alternator also arrived the day after the last post, so thats fitted and all good now after a quick clean and light polish up. Also exhaust has been sorted, all it needed was one clamp, but I couldn't see before due to the ton of Gun Gum covering it all! It was actually just some repair wrap with a couple of clamps by the look of it. :bonk:. Anyway, here are some more pics. Alternator old vs new Remains of old exhaust repair And a few pics after the quick clean.

Doh............ Will have a look to make sure its on properly. Cant wait to try reconnecting the speedo drive after. :bonk: Cheers bud.

Where does the MFA get its MPG feed from? Recently my 'current trip' (setting 1) only occasionally works. It just sits at 99.9 most of the time. I ran a tin of BG44K through it so expected it to improve slightly, and its happened since then, but dont think its that good! lol.

Not got round to tracking down the million and one knocks, squeaks and rattles yet but that will come hopefully! And I know mine is an early one (90 kr), and the interior has probably been ripped out and put back in a thousand times with the obligatory odd screw left over, but I thought the exact same thing as the OP with regard to interior build quality. Nothing seems to line up very well, and as above, lots and lots of annoying little rattles! I will get it sorted though.

The ones under the scuttle really are a PITA! I honestly almost put the ratchet through the windscreen in my rage at trying to get them off!

I got triple NGKs from ECP for mine, less than 4 quid each even without discount. I don't see the the point in quad titanium element and all the rest of that crap! You'd never know the difference, and neither would your motor. Waste of money IMO.

Couldn't find anything in a search, but I have replaced my alternator with a used one, and I was planning on refirbing the original. Brushes atm are both 6-7 mm. What are the minimum recommended for replacement, and what are they new? Cheers guys!