zak

i only put the wanted advert up to keep my options open, i'm going to strip the engine down tommorow and assess the situation and decide from there what to do. If i wasnt so busy with work i wouldnt hesitate to go 24v but its not really an option for me as i need to get the car back on the road asap as i need to drive it.

after two years of faultless running its one thing after another right now, too annoyed to work on it today so will strip it down tommorow. Shouldn't take too long to do as i know where everythng goes off the top of my head now.

i took the car for a drive this morning, it drove well and picked up nicely from the bottom end. After the car warmed up it started smoking again so i took it for a short blast stretching the legs of the engine up to about 4-5k. This didnt make any difference really it was still smoking as it was in the videos i put up so i decided to come home. On the way home the engine jolted and cut out, i feared the worse as yesterday the engine had developed a tapping noise from the chain side. I managed to coast to a stop in to a petrol station where i tried to crank the engine as it span so freely i could tell there was no compression so i called my brother who towed me home. Once home we cranked the engine and you could see the cam was not spinning through the oil cap so it seems that the someting has happened to the chain. I will have to strip the engine down again to find out what the problem is but im sure there will be a damaged/snapped chain and some bent valves involved. Not sure how this could have happened as i torqued the chain guides and tensioners up correctly and i turned the engine over by hand a good 5 - 6 times to ensure the timing was correct. When i first started the engine after the rebuild and the oil had built up pressure the chain was silent it only became noisy yesterday. The question now is should i stick with this engine, what if i build it back up and i have the same smoking problem?

you should be able to clay it out

heres my compression test results Cyl 1 2 3 4 5 6 Dry. 151 160 152 161 154 154 Wet 158 166 165 180 170 170 Figures in psi. I warmed the engine up untill the fans kicked in, pulled the fuel pump relay and fuse and disconnected the lv wiring to the coilpack. After which i removed all the plugs and took readings for each cylinder one at a time while cranking the car over. Does this confirm the head gasket has sealed? i dont have the tool to analyse exhaust gasses from the coolant expansion tank, will i still need to do this? While i was out working on the car i pulled the wiring to the lamda and ran it for a few minutes and i have the same problem, When i get time i'll go through and check out the values in vag com see if i can spot anything there. I'm pretty stumped not sure what to do next, If i can i'll take it for a spin early tommorow morning or later this evening and see if it makes a difference.

heres a pic of the of the skimmed head, the engineering firm skimmed it 7 thou, there are two bits of corrosion i was concerned about but they advised it shouldnt be an issue i dont have pics of the block but i did scrape all the old gasket material off and rub it down with emery paper slightly

I only ran the car for a few minutes without coolant, after which i filled up the system and ran the engine with the heaters on untill the fans kicked in. I'm going to spend some time this evening an recheck that there are not any splits or vacuum leaks then take it for a run first thing tommorow morning. I'm also planning on doing a compression test tommorow and will see if that brings up anything. I did use a gsf headgasket which was made by victor reinz, maybe i should have just gone with vw as i did with most of the other parts.

well the maf didnt work.... next :brickwall: i put my hand up against the exhaust and the fumes felt wet, not sure if that makes any difference? Regarding the head gasket i was thinking the same, where can i get a tester from?

James no not had it on the road yet its still in my garage, if i did it would leave a smokescreen behind me so don't think its possible unless i wake up early and do it while the neighbours are asleep :lol: But the smoke is similar to before, this is when the car is cold and this is after 5-10mins of running :eek: Dr Mat I'm going to pick up a maf later so will try that and see if it makes any difference, ive already swapped the ecu to a known working one. Hassan. the head was torqued correctly, i used the sequence i found on here and that was the same as the russian technical site. Will the fpr make a difference? do you know how much they are? I haven't changed the plugs but i did clean them up when i replaced them. As for air leaks i can't see anything obvious and theres only so many places there could be a leak. I'll be doing a a more in depth fault finding investigation tommorow so hopefully will be able to to trace the problem otherwise :brickwall:

Pete i'm confident that the wiring is all correct now, regarding the injectors i have a few spare that antonio_b12 lent me so i might try them but i don't think it will make a difference. I fitted a new vag lambda earlier this year so i can't see that causing any issues its just he maf left really. Will cleaning it really help? it may just be operating out of its range and thats why its not coming up on vag com. I have the 6 pin maf which is quite expensive so i would like to confirm its the maf for sure before i change it. Its quite annoying now as the cars been of the road for a month now!

this post should be stickied, i was wondering myself last night but then remembered this thread :lol:

it was only running for a few minutes at most without coolant, nothing substantial. Could the maf be faulty even though its not coming up as an error code on vag com? Something is causing the overfuelling and theres not much left to change!

I have changed the head gasket and got the car up and running, i ended up doing a comprehensive freshen up at the same time and also completed the following work: Rebuilt head including news guides, stem seals, relapped valves, skim and new tappets New chains, guides and tensioners New Clutch New crack pipe and oil cooler hoses After starting the car for the first time there wasn

im tempted to go for a set now

nice how does it feel on the road?

The alternator is from a golf vr6 and is a direct fit to the corrado i just needed to tap the sleeves out so that it would fit on to the corrado bracket. As for the terminal © above this is just used to secure the cable in place.

if you're gonna do it sierra cossie vents ftw lol

congrats, its nice when the old vr's running sweet! Did you drive the car after you changed the pcv or only after you had changed both the pcv and the fpr? Im curious which of the two were most responsible for your results.

heres a another pic so you can see there are no other termials on the top

i got a spare alternator of my friend, below is a pic, where do i connect the blue wire to? In my old alternator there was a small terminal that went to the plastic casing, on this it looks like ©in the pic below but that just screws in to the metal casing and does not seem connected to anything.

although the difference is 1" only half of that is on the outside as the offsets are roughly the same, im not sure difference in arch specs you'll have to have a search of the forum. but this guys running rs003's which are 7 x 16" et 25 on an early body rado and he looks like he has plenty of space so with the rs070's sitting 7mm further out they will be flush or just inside the lip of the arch. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=70803&hilit=rs003 edit just realised thats a late body, i would say check out g6ogreenys car hes running low offset rs's on his early body corrado.

Heres pics of my old 16v, i ran it quite a bit lower after these pics still without any issue. As i said these were 8's but your 7's will sit roughly the same in relation to the arch on early wings. I'd say if you ran a tyre size like 205/50/15 then you might have problems but if you run a 195/45's then you will have plenty of space in the arch, you can see below that the car is quite low by the position of the 50mm spoiler from the ground but theres still plenty of arch clearance. A complete set of centre caps second hand usually go for £100 over here but they very rarely come up, you can buy them brand new from a seller called pw motorsport on ebay who is also a member on here but they will be £50 each.

they should fit fine with 195/45/15 tyres. I had 8x15 et 18's on my facelift 16v an ran it low on standard arches without any issues. RS070's are 7 x 15 et 16 so you have an extra half inch of clearance on the arch side so despite having the narrower wings it should not be an issue. Are you just missing the centre cap badge or the whole cap including the weave, nut and badge?

okay now i read it again it makes sense.

heres the link to the document i got the settings from incase anyone is interested http://volkswagen.msk.ru/engine/aaa_pg/aaa_pg_cylinder_head_valve_drive.pdf