zak

Just to update this, i fitted the replacement engine i sourced after i changed the tensioners and chains. The engine was supplied complete head and block without the ancillaries so i have used my old sensors and ancillaries. I got it running earlier this week and its still smoking as before but maybe not as bad and the smoke looks a little more black. Today i changed the cat and it made no difference. Really stuck on what could be the issue only thing left to change is the fpr and the spark plugs which i will do in the morning. Anyone have any ideas, i'm usually good with fault finding but this has got me stumped. Could it be a split downppe drawing in air and causiing the lamda to mis read and the engine to overfuel? On a side note the engine seems to run quite smoothly :)

in terms of clearance ride height and wheel offset is just as important as size of wheel you fit.

im interested to hear what it sounds like if you get a chance can you put up a video clip?

your engine bay looks really good! Im trying to bring mine up to scratch now too and have also painted my manifold black although ive gone for a matt finish and painted the vr6 dohc plastic in the same colour and finish. Yours works well! Looking at your bay has given me a few ideas i think im going to replace my expansion tank and bring my hoses up to scratch!

Nice car and spec, looks like you have the gauges in the lower centre console too. Theres a thread on here with the corrado colours listeed, have a search.

theres your problem, you need to lower the platform to lower your car, The way you have set the platform on the coilover now means you are at maximum height!

nice, hows the drive?

yes it does look good, how much camber have you got on the front?

mike how much clearance do you have between the wheels and the struts front and rear? Have you stuck with et25 or are you running spacers?

i missed this thread, the rolling shots on page 9 look hot!

standard fit on slc's

i ran 8 x 15" et 18 wheels with 195/45/15 tyres on my old 16v without any problems, you will be fine as long as you dont use the bmw 205/55/15 tyres

have a read through of the timing chains how to in the knowledge base, it has a comprehensive list of parts to change while doing the job. Off the top of my head in addition to the parts you have mentioned i would also change the lower crankshaft seal, the clutch lever arm and inspect the thermostat housing and coolant transfer pipe and associated hoses and replace if necessary.

i would trust elring, the gsf bolts i had were some unknown company which is why i swapped to febi.

I used febi bolts from GSF came to about £25 for the set from what i remember, previous to that i bought some from gsf but didnt recognise the manufacturer so i returned them as someone told me that they have had cheap bolts go soft when they have been torqueing them up. As for head gasket preffered one would be an mk4 style gasket from the dealers.

congrats Bally car was looking tough today even more rated since its your daily!

wow, thats cool to have a bit more history. Seems like the previous owner didnt hold back. Its looks well on the abt rims

the nothelles look hot! Are you keeping the skirts on? i think it would look better without them. if you want to sell your wiper setup let me know.

thanks for the in depth reply it does seem you had a very similar problem to mine. I guess i will find out when i get the new engine up and running but it certainly gives me something to consider if the problem is still there, is your car running fine now?

bigpants usually has a setup available

cheers for the offer i saw your thread already, ive sourced a 90k abv engine and will be swapping my new tensioners etc across and putting that in at the weekend. If i'm still getting all the smoke then i will know for sure its something other than the head and block. Atleast i will have the car back on the road soon.

i'm still not sure what to do, only thing that is playing at the back of my mind is the smoke issue. It will still be there even once i have it back up and running.

no it wasn't pressure tested, if i knew there was such a test i would have asked for it when the machine shop had the head, how much does it roughly cost?

tandino thats exactly what happened, that particular day a mate came to help me out and i guess it wasn't torqued correctly. heres the damage 6 bent valves and a few marks to the pistons, the bottom end seems fine, turned it over a few times and the pistons all come up to the same level. I'm thinking of replacing the damaged valves and putting the head back, but this wont solve this smoking issue so not sure if this is the way forward. How expensive are valves? Hassans already offered to let me use the spare ones from his spare head, is there any issues with this? I hear you guys on the 24v route but i have a business that eats in to a lot of my time and i will be starting evening classes in september so really do not have much spare time to take on a conversion that might drag on.

when i crank the starter it is definately engaging and turning the engine over, No i didnt fill and bleed the upper tensioner, i didn't read anywhere that was necessary, how would i have done that? When i first had the car running the chains were silent after the oil pressure had built up so i don't know why it would suddenly fail.