zak

from the russian techincal site i got the below details I don't get the last bit where it says two additional 1/4 turns are permissable, does this mean i should carry out this last stage or not?

i was going to say as long as theres some paint to work with you can turn the bodywork around without a respray

wow, looks really good. Red looks sweet when it clean and polished 8)

I managed to get it out yesterday with one of these I spent yesterday cleaning up my bay and prepping the inlet manifold, rocker cover and other brackets and covers for paint. Now im just waiting on the head and other parts to come back so i can finish the job.

Pete Just had a look at your thread, i wished i read it earlier then i would have stripped my head down myself and saved come cash. Ive just realised that the head bolts are an m11 thread, thats why the threads started to strip when i was trying to unwind it with two m12 nuts :brickwall: After a quick ring round it seems as though m11 is a size no one stocks so im stuck for ideas on how to get the sheared head bolt out of the block.

Pete just read through your thread, love the makeshift workshop in the kitchen :lol: I noticed that one of your head bolts sheared in the block, how did you get it out in the end?

I dropped the head to the engineering company, they will strip the head, fit the new guides and stem seals, lap the valves, skim and rebuild the head back up. The head won't be ready untill tuesday which delays getting the work finished, In the mean time i'm going to clean my bay up and paint my inlet manifold and rocker cover. I still have the sheared bolt in the block to sort, will see how that goes this evening. ive spent £240 in parts at GSF and £180 at vw, with the machine work on top, Its all quite depressing really. I still have the box to come off so that could potentially be a clutch on top too. I was thinking of selling the car soon but i think i will keep it for a while longer and enjoy it now. There will be nothing left to go wrong, in the last year ive allready done a suspension, brake and steering overhaul.

These things tend to happen to me it starts from a small issue and i end up doing other work along the way, hopefully it shouldnt be off the road for too long as long as the parts come in from vw tommorow. I'm not worried about the sheared exhaust studs as i can always get the engineering firm doing the skim to sort that out, its the sheared head bolt in the block im having issues with, Last night i sprayed it with wd40 and tapped it with a hammer a few times to shock it. Then i wound two nuts on to it and tried to undo it with a spanner, it wouldnt budge,in the end the threads on the nut and the sheared bolt started to strip. So ive left it and soaked the bolt with some freeze eaze this morning and will attempt to undo it later. Anyone got any tips on how to get it out, I think the heads never been off the block in my car in all its 182k miles!

okay cheers, i think i will do the guides myself then

The price quoted for the guides is just the labour. These were just prices quoted o the phone i'm planing on negotiating when i go to drop the head off. Whats the ice bucket for?

James i trust your knowledge so i'll drop the head in for a skim tommorow. The skim is costing me £60 and they want £10 a valve to do the guides,is this worth it or is it something i could do myself? Is there anything else i should do to the head? I have a few issues still to resolve, two of the exhaust studs have snapped and i need to get them out. I have to try to get the sheared head bolt out from the block. Lastly one of the bolts holding the thermostat housing has rounded its head. Im going to try and sort these issues out tonight. Im going to be changing the crack pipe and Thermostat housing, is there anything else worth doing? Im hoping to have the head back on saturday and the chains done Sunday so need to pick up parts tommorow.

The head is off but i can't seem to see a break in the gasket... Heres the pics Also whats this? looks suspiciously like the starter motor bush but it has a slit in it Heres some pics of the bores Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 6 Heres some pics of the underside of the head Does everything look as it should? If there is no break in the head gasket what could have caused the problem?

Thanks for the offer, i'm hoping to have it back on the road over the weekend. Is it worth getting the head skimmed?

Must be a great feeling to drive it again, you'll have to take me for a spin once its mot'd and taxed up. The scraping is most probably your cat heat shield, i removed mine as it used to catch even at moderate a ride height let alone when the car is low.

After a further strip down i was greeted by this Looks like i will be doing the chains and tensioners this weekend too :lol: I couldnt get the head of the block, i removed all the head bolts, one of which snapped and still resides in the block. I removed the tensioner on the left hand side on the head. I removed the upper chain tensioner along the upper chain cover, i have removed the cams. The exhaust manifold is disconnected. I also undid the dipstick guide from the lower inlet. The head will still not lift off. I have left the lower inlet on,do i need to remove this too? Is there anything i have missed?

i took the car for a quick drive up my road and it left a huge smoke screen behind me :eek: So back to base and heres a vid of the smoke. Decided to take the head of, this is where its as now, Theres a mark on the cam lobe, anything to worry about?

Good news, I tried Hassans ecu and im no longer getting any fault codes, bad news is the problem is still there. I also tried another coilpack and blue temp sensor just so i have elimanated all the simple stuff and no change. Is the head gasket the only thing left or is there anything else i can try?

James i think you are right, as its the only plug which is white under the electrode. It's hard to see but plug 5 was wet with petrol too.

That would be great, is it and ag part number?

Toe is adjusted from the track rod, to get it set roughly you measure the distance between the inside of the of the front wheels at the front and back.when the distance is the same you should have parallel toe. How easy it is to to is anothey matter. When i recently put my suspension back together i did it by eye tested everything out then went and got my allignement done.

remind me of the old skool x3ri alloys :lol:

The problem with injector 3 was my fault the connector was not plugged in properly from yesterday when i had the fuel rail off to swap the injectors around. I checked the wiring for injector 5 and i could not find any issues with it, i checked the supply wire for continuity from the engine harness plug on the right hand side of the cylinder head to the connector that connects to the injector and it showed continuity. I also checked the common earth for the injector wiring and that was fine too. I removed the engine ecu to check if there were any corroded terminals and all looked okay so i refitted it. Before refitting i rubbed the terinals down with emery paper and sprayed switch cleaner in to the ecu wiring loom plug. Not sure where to go now, i would like to reseolve the error codes before tackling the head gasket if i even need to. I think it might be worth trying a another ecu, my ecu is part number 021 906 258AG if anyone has one? heres the pics of my plugs Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 6

I swapped injectors 5 and 6 yesterday and rescanned for errors, number 5 still came up showing an error so not sure if the injector is faulty. Upon the rescan injector 3 was also came up showin the same error which could mean a wiring problem but there was nothing obvious i could see. The connections to the injectors were all good, no green corrosion so a little confused where to trace this Kev Thats a good tip i'll try that today Regarding the plugs, i'll take pics of each one today so you can see what i mean but it is confusing why the front bank are black anyone know what this error is about as its still coming up 01242 - Output Stages in Control Module 34-00 - No Malfunction Detected

ive no need for a can bus lead so i just have a standard cheapie usb ebay jobbie. Ive tried it on my t41 and my brothers t43 and on both it causes a conflict that results in the blue screen of death.

I fixed my starter issue today so was able to progress with working on the car. I think i will try to resolve the fault codes before i look in to the head gasket. To resolve the fault code with injector 5 I just removed my inlet and swapped no. 5 and no. 6 injectors around as i couldnt see any issue with the wiring to injector 5. Im just going to go back to my car and re scan for fault codes and see if it logs a fault with injector 6 as this will confirm the injector is faulty. If the fault remains logged for injector 5 then will have to re inspect the wiring. Pete i was just reading this thread of yours, my problem sounds remarkably similar, did you resolve the prob in the end? http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65640&p=762438&hilit=vr6+head+gasket#p762438 Karl thanks for the offer but if i need one i will source one locally Antonio i might just take you up on the offer, just going to rescn for fault codes so i can eliminate the injector as being faulty