edd

anyone.......

Got a intermittent heat related ABS fault at the moment on a "good offer at the time" VR i picked up recently, the problem being ABS light will only come on and then stay off if the engine is very warm. when car is cold ABS light is on permamnently. Anyway running through the motions, currently at changing blake fluid using an eezibleed. Most nipples on the calipers all round were initially blocked if im honest but but with nipple completely off and an added bit of pedal pressure all have freed bar the nipple on the ABS unit located furthest from the bulkhead (1 of two on the unit). It appears to either be a flow or return back to the brake fluid resevoir. i suppose the questions are: a) should fluid come out - given its a bleed valve im guessing yes...... b) how do i unblock it - tried prodding with a paperclip, but paperclip appears to go in further than the bleed nipple would be when fully tightened up so im thinking a blockage elsewhere in the system (could this indicate a stuck, valve/) however no fluid will come out even if engine is warm and the ABS light working correctly) c) if i can't get any fluid out this bleed nipple is this likely to be a problem or is it normal, I don't have VAG COM and therefore don't want to remove abs pump if unnecessary. (Car is also of the road currently not insured or MOT'd so cannot drive to garage) d) why in the hell is my ABS ony working when car warm......... Hurry before i start breaking it Edd.

Hey up, was only having this coversation with my cousin today (the owner of moonlight blue VR in the household) mentioned to him i forgot to add the blue one i see every so often......yours; has it still got 72k!!?? wanna sell? I'll take first refusal. Just noticed the long standing aforementioned grey VR from the green dragon pub appears to have been exchanged for a red citroen.........

rod whats the condition of the paintwork like on the black wing. If krischen not interested i may be. would you post?

That'll be me been driving around in that green VR, for years and years, in fact the current household makes up most of the Malvern Corrado contingency; currently stands at 3VR's a green, a blue and a black. Know of two others regulars in Malvern town a grey VR and red 16V. Where you based Peebee?

received promptly, very well packaged and a described thanks Tim

car started 'hesitating' down the motorway on the way home from work, had to be air leak, got home took all the breather hoses off, reinspected and found a split had opened up in the cylinder head breather. installed new breather hose disconnected the battery for a while to clear any faults etc and restarted sat nice and smoothly at 750rpm. thanks for the advice all. Better get someone to VAG.com me now see if ive messed anything else up.......:)

had a good look/feel around but cant see or hear any form of leak, have swapped over ISV's over from the other vr6 (which idles perfectly with both ISV's). Made no difference to this one....

Ok so having had a bout of early morning crappy idle and associated stalling, i decided the vr was due some new plugs and an ISV clean Having undertaken said works i now have a car that runs lovely with the foot on the pedal and has a fairy smooth idle (most of the time). ....... However idle will not drop below 1000rpm (it is definitely higher than it was, i know this car having had it for 7 years). Have checked obvious possibilities such as air intake pipes etc no leaks evident anywhere. All clips well tightened I have swapped the MAF recently (1 week before this work) from another VR i have just to see if it made any difference to the stalling issue i was having before (it didn't resolve, but also didnt effect idle). Both cars are 1992/3 and stall upon MAF disconnection. I have also tried adjusting throttle valve sensor in case garage had adjusted to compensated for a dirty ISV in some way but could only get this to facilitate an increase in idle i did replace blue temp within the last 6 months but was a GSF one....bit coincidental if that was suddenly the cause though Any further thoughs - it was definitely straight after ISV and spark plug change that it started happening. doesnt appear to idle high on start then drop off either just always 1000rpm. Help, its annnnnoooyyinnngg me. Sorry for any bad typos. its late, im annoyed., im tired... Edd

ah cheers beaky, no, just bought the car off someone recently, tried all the connections, definitely temp related, i'll get the brake fluid done.

aye its certainly a bit annoying, any hunches regarding the cause Tony? ---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ---------- http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?47249-ABS-warning-light-ABS-pump-internal-wiring&highlight=abs+fault+cold

how about £30 for driverside fog light and surround... Edd

Hi Beaky So what do you think was the solution, i'm not clear from the previous posts, i have exaclty the same problem on a VR ive picked up recently, ABS light stays on after cold starts but once car warm can turn engine on/off and will they work as it should. definitely engine temp related. Any ideads? Edd

Yeah i checked this before as i poured water into the top of the rad via the top rad hose with a watering can and it came out the bottom rad hose that was disconnected at the thermostat end, so im assuming rad is not blocked Any more ideas?? Think ill but a new yellow temp sensor as a matter of course i.e. temp reading wrong but surely this would have no effect on situation of stat not appearing to open. AArrrgggg...

right so changed the stat but im no better for it just angry and less well off, im in exactly the same boat, water temp getting hot quickly so temp light flashes and bottom rad hose staying cold. I tested the old and the new thermostats in a saucpan of boiling water and both appeared to be working fine i.e. spring becoming loaded when it reaches boiling point. i have return flow back into the header does this mean i can assume the water pump is okay, i can also hear the auxilary pump with the ignition on. If i fill up the rad from the top water will come out the bottom so no blockages in there. Im stumped any ideas - the rado is off after this - after 8 years of rado ownership i think i have finally had enough :(

pretty sure it must be a stuck closed thermostat due to botom rad hose not warming up, if it has been in the closed postion for a 3 months without being warmed up is this a likely scenario?? Back on the stafge 1 fan not working though assuming wiring is okay from stage 1 and 2 thermoswitch and it is a direct link is this likely ot be a fault in the fan motor circuitry??

Hi All The VR has been off the road for the winter as i have been borrowing another car, now have to give it back so decided to test alls well........ and all is not. Temperature guage on the dash is exceeding 110oC with coolant light flashing (only once warm) and fans seems to be slightly tempremental. I.e. not always coming on but have seen them on when very hot Have checked all visible fuses from within the car - all fine removed the fan stage 1 and 2 temp sensor and bridged across them, stage 2 is working but nothing from stage 1 - does that mean a wiring issue here i.e. not sensor related?? Have bridged black temp sensor stage 3 fans come on Bridged across yellow temp and fans came on, can hear aux pump working when ingnition on too With engine warm i.e. guage showing 110 and coolant/temp light flashing bottom rad hose was still cold. Im therefore thinking yellow temp not working properly and/or thermostat stuck closed (what about blue temp sensor??) any other thoughts, is there any other reason other than wiring why the stage 1 fan did not come on when i bridged the connections. Need this sorted by Thursday aaargghh I also broke the plastic collar on the expansion tank return hose trying to get hose off to check return was working (it was) so got one of them coming off ebay. Boll*&ks Cheers for any help Edd

sorry mods can someone delete (can i delete?/) - i have posted this twice Edd

Anyone recognise this??? Its driving me round the bend My VR6 currently has squeaking/creaking/grinding noise coming from my front n/s wheel. The noise is periodic i.e. related to wheel speed and only happens off-load, when freewheeling with any degree of right lock or breaking straight ahead. It also seem to get worse as the car wheel area warms up (brakes??) as it often seems less apparent in the first few mins of driving in the morning Has been in the garage all week who have checked it out and cannot identify the source of noise but say all seems safe i.e. no apparent play in front bearings, no leaking CV joint boots, new brake pads, disc worn but not excessively. My thoughts were outer cv joint as my gut feeling was its that kind of creak however I don’t get classic symptoms like a knock when moving away on full lock and noise is always off load rather than on. (Completely disappears when on load!!!) I wondered about discs catching on carriers if there was some from of play but there is no evidence of that Disc guards or ABS sensors don’t seem to be touching disc anywhere. Front wheel bearing – no play at all but, noise on load does seem to maybe point to his Driveshafts?? Cannot replicate the noise with car on jacks! All thoughts/advice would be appreciated

Anyone recognise this??? Its driving me round the bend My VR6 currently has squeaking/creaking/grinding noise coming from my front n/s wheel. The noise is periodic i.e. related to wheel speed and only happens off-load, when freewheeling with any degree of right lock or breaking straight ahead. It also seem to get worse as the car wheel area warms up (brakes??) as it often seems less apparent in the first few mins of driving in the morning Has been in the garage all week who have checked it out and cannot identify the source of noise but say all seems safe i.e. no apparent play in front bearings, no leaking CV joint boots, new brake pads, disc worn but not excessively. My thoughts were outer cv joint as my gut feeling was its that kind of creak however I don’t get classic symptoms like a knock when moving away on full lock and noise is always off load rather than on. (Completely disappears when on load!!!) I wondered about discs catching on carriers if there was some from of play but there is no evidence of that Disc guards or ABS sensors don’t seem to be touching disc anywhere. Front wheel bearing – no play at all but, noise on load does seem to maybe point to his Driveshafts?? Cannot replicate the noise with car on jacks! All thoughts/advice would be appreciated

has this been resolved as i have exactly the same issue and it is drving me potty. squeak almost certainly from cv joint/discs/bearing noise from frone left. only apparent off-load and on dead straight or turnng to right. as soon as you accelerate i.e. on lad noise will disappear. Had though discs on carrier sbut have grinded down lip to no avail...

as a follow up, having tested all the sensors and finding correct resistance readings i had the ECU read which was throwing up a front right sensor error. replaced both but frustratingly found that the problem was continuing. i then discovered that the abs light would come on when the wheels were turned through full locks (i.e. stationary). upon rechecking the new sensor resistances from the strutt i was getting a continuity error when the light was staying on immediately after start up, turns out the cable from the sensor to the strutt had a break in but was only causing a break for a fraction of a second but enough to cut the abs operation and log an error. new cable all sorted.

Right i know its an old topic but havent found a definitive solution as yet by the search. ABS light comes on (usually) within a 30 seconds of making way. pump priming felt through the pedal okay on ignition etc. Sometimes when i move off and then brake slightly as the ABS light comes on I can feel the ABS activating through the front wheels (feels like front right but that could be just down to location of pump etc) I have checked resistance of the sensors, they are showing 1.06 rear right. 1.05 rear left. 1.08 front right. 1.09front left. i thought it should be a higher value but i dont believe all sensors have gone. so could be my ammeter. when this first started happening last year i just disconnected the ABS as im not a big fan of it anyway, alas now MOT time looms. I suppose next step is a ecu read, but what are peoples feelings on the sensor resistances.

Done a lot of searching on the forum but havent been able to fix this, Basically every so oftern the vr will crank over but not fire, replaced the coil a few weeks ago which seemed to fix the problem originally but has now its reappeared, it is an new original bosch item so would be suprised if thats the cause. Though it is strange that the problem seemed to have been rectified after is was replaced (coincidence i guess). I have now replaced the ingnition switch but still getting the intermitant problem, basically sometimes i can sit there for ages trying and trying and then it will eventually (hopefully if batt not already flat) suddenly fire up. Its an early vr dizzy model. there seems to be no relationship to heat or anything jusy totally random. Have checked earths and they are good. Avoiding using it now as can't be arsed to get stranded somewhere. any more obvious points i need to check. edd

Road camber?!