Project Plum - The Plan of Attack

[boost monkey 0]

Ah thanks Judith! I'll pop down there then. Need some brake cleaner before I put the discs on anyways :salute: :D

[Guest]

No probs, am just relaying what kip says :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

Thanks you guys!

 

I still have a massive tube of steering rack grease. I wonder whether it is suitable for high speed bearings - probably not.

 

Oh well, anyone need a rack refurbing?! :norty:

[pete_griff 0]

Thanks you guys!

 

I still have a massive tube of steering rack grease. I wonder whether it is suitable for high speed bearings - probably not.

 

Oh well, anyone need a rack refurbing?! :norty:

 

 

i have that same tube! :lol:

 

i used castrol LM grease on my bearings - also available from halfrauds - just depends on what the store has in stock i guess.

 

keep us updated as usual pal :)

[KipVR 1]

Yeah a lithium based (high temperature) grease containing molybdenum disulphide (reduces friction) is what you are after mate. Dark grey colour.

[boost monkey 0]

Thanks you guys!

 

I still have a massive tube of steering rack grease. I wonder whether it is suitable for high speed bearings - probably not.

 

Oh well, anyone need a rack refurbing?! :norty:

 

 

i have that same tube! :lol:

 

i used castrol LM grease on my bearings - also available from halfrauds - just depends on what the store has in stock i guess.

 

keep us updated as usual pal :)[/quote:394zew7j]

 

The steering rack grease tube from VW?! I had to special order mine from Munich! Maybe you got the last UK one :censored: :lol:

 

Ah yeah, LM sounds good to me, cheers!

[boost monkey 0]

Yeah a lithium based (high temperature) grease containing molybdenum disulphide (reduces friction) is what you are after mate. Dark grey colour.

 

Cheers matey :salute:

 

I got my PM issue sorted out now too, you should see my new wishbones - they're custom :norty: :grin:

[KipVR 1]

Pics please :D

[boost monkey 0]

So, my 2nd year is over and it's time to get another crappy temp job before going overseas (possibly) for my placement.

 

Hopefully will get the bearings and discs on this week, although I've lost all my guide pins for the calipers :bad-words: so look out for a WANTED post soon!

 

Updates as and when :salute:

 

p.s. check out my design coursework teaser:

 

 

[boost monkey 0]

Got out and put the stone shields and stub axles onto the beam today. Tomorrow will be drifting the bearing race into the discs and getting those on with the bearings too.

 

 

The bits for each side: stub axle (febi) with stone shield and axle bolts plus spring washers (genuine)

 

 

 

Painting the mating faces with POR was not my best idea ever :cuckoo: bolts took a bit more effort to go in.

 

 

 

Everything on in order. I would have thought the shield goes behind the stub axle but Bentley told me otherwise, plus the carrier mount arms foul on the shield moulding if you try it that way. Note orientation of sprung washers (|

 

 

 

Bolts tightened up to 44ft lb as per Bentley.

 

 

 

Bit of LM slapped on to keep the surface nice before I can get the bearings and discs on. Hopefully tomorrow!

 

 

 

Protective cover for the lube... Ahem....

 

 

 

Same procedure on the other side.

 

 

Both axles covered over with tesco bags for the ghetto look. Should win some show awards with those this summer :norty:

[boost monkey 0]

On a more engine related note, I was speaking to a guy recently who said that my low compression on that one cylinder (20 ish pages ago) may actually head related (valvetrain) and NOT piston rings as I first suspected.

 

Thoughts?

 

J.

[Kempy 0]

wheres the camber shims :D lol

[dirtytorque 0]

On a more engine related note, I was speaking to a guy recently who said that my low compression on that one cylinder (20 ish pages ago) may actually head related (valvetrain) and NOT piston rings as I first suspected.

 

Thoughts?

 

J.

 

 

did you do a leak down test?

I thought you did..?!?

[boost monkey 0]

wheres the camber shims :D lol

 

No camber shims on fabricated uprights; they're for cast ones! Camber adjustment is done via the threaded camber pin in the upper wishbone. It allows infinite adjustment to be performed.

 

On a more engine related note, I was speaking to a guy recently who said that my low compression on that one cylinder (20 ish pages ago) may actually head related (valvetrain) and NOT piston rings as I first suspected.

 

Thoughts?

 

J.

 

 

did you do a leak down test?

I thought you did..?!?

 

Yeah I did, it's on the forum somewhere. The fact that it never smokes on overrun makes me think that it may not be rings.

[boost monkey 0]

70 pages, that's right! (God, I can waffle :nuts: )

 

I washed the car today, first time in *ahem* eight months *ahem*, but it does look good! The layer of dirt by the wiper blades was immense!

 

Hoping to get to the discs and bearings tomorrow, then it's very quickly on with the carriers, calipers, handbrake cable, refill with brake fluid and all done! Hopefully... :clap:

[boost monkey 0]

I washed the car today, first time in *ahem* eight months *ahem*, but it does look good! The layer of dirt by the wiper blades was immense!

 

 

:oops:

 

 

 

So, I managed to grab a couple of hours (plus tools and bits) to do the rear discs and bearings today. straightforward jobs really. Yes ladies, that IS a Mk2 Golf Bentley 8)

 

 

 

Started off by using the white spirit to rub down the bearing race faces on the inside edges of the discs - inner and outer.

 

 

 

Shiny fresh with no swarf. Nice.

 

 

 

Inner wheel bearing and race.

 

 

 

The race is the tapered ring. This is pressed into the back of the disc. I don't have a press, but I do have tyte skillz.

 

 

 

This is where it goes, fatty end in first (edge with writing on).

 

 

 

LM Greasage should always be nearby! :luvlove:

 

 

 

Grease that puppy up a little.

 

 

 

Use your "pressing" skills to push it all the way down to the ledge.

 

 

 

More grease.

 

 

 

Pop the bearing in, make sure it's seated well and spins freely.

 

 

 

More snot.

 

 

 

This is the seal that keeps the bearing in the back of the discs and keeps gank out. It is your friend.

 

 

 

Grease it up and push it in. *waits for this line to get quoted later*

 

 

 

The top of the disc. This is where the outer bearing and race go. It is a fair bit smaller than the inner one.

 

 

 

Mr. Outer Bearing and his friend Race. Well hello! :wave:

 

 

 

They, too, must be seperated.

 

 

 

You guessed it: Push that race bish right into this bad boy hole, all the way down to the lip. You'll know when you have pushed it far enough cos your hand will bleed.

 

 

 

Shot of pressing process. Interesting stuff.

 

 

 

Race pushed in fully. Sling some more grease in there, just for fun.

 

 

 

 

Pop the bearing into the race, and grease it up until you can't even see it.

 

 

 

The other bits and bobs that come in a febi bearing kit - funny jaggy nut hat, cotter pin and shiney coverer thing.

 

 

 

These are the other 2 parts (with part #s!) that you will need from VAG - the special washer and retaining nut. I am well good to you.

 

 

 

This is the disc located on the stub axle. Fresh.

 

 

 

The order the last parts need to go on, from left to right.

 

 

 

Washer - on.

 

 

 

Nut - on. Only finger tight remember!

 

 

 

Cotter pin - on. Hmm, have I forgotten something...? :scratch:

 

 

 

Cotter pin being useful! Bend the legs back round on itself to lock the nut and jaggy hat in place.

 

 

 

Grease up the shiny cap. Really hope that's not a euphemism. :pale:

 

 

 

Didn't go on quite as easily as expected, but did go on eventually :D

 

 

 

Cool! That's one side done. Now to tidy up....

 

 

 

....Shank. :brickwall: Ugh, back off with the shiny cap...

 

 

 

jaggy hat in place.

 

 

 

Good job I have spare cotter pins! :grin:

 

 

 

All back together, phew.

 

 

 

And the other side! This was a lot harder than the first one; the inner bearing kept catching on a lip on the stub axle but it's done now :clap:

 

 

 

Next up: many caliper issues! Still need to find guide pins, a handbrake spring (to replace the one I lost off the caliper I sprayed) and a few other bits and bobs. And yes, I will get some brake cleaner on those discs! :nuts:

[CazzaVR 0]

Brilliant! :notworthy: You should submit that to the Wiki, apart from the part about not washing your car for eight months...

[colinstubbs 0]

Looking as good as ever!

[Timbo 0]

Nut - on. Only finger tight remember!

 

You'll probably find the bearings slacken off after a little use, and you'll need to take it all to bits again to tighten them. Just keep this in mind if you literally have only tightened them with your fingers :).

[davidwort 0]

virtually identical post to my recent rear disk change :) viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=15

those febi caps are crap, I used the old ones which are a perfect fit and tap in tightly without needing to be partially crushed :lol:

[boost monkey 0]

Nut - on. Only finger tight remember!

 

You'll probably find the bearings slacken off after a little use, and you'll need to take it all to bits again to tighten them. Just keep this in mind if you literally have only tightened them with your fingers :).

 

The Bentley said to tighten them until the bearings were juuust touching the races, which seemed a lot less than finger tight so I just nipped them up as best I could with my digits :confused4:

 

I think the jaggy hats actually lock the nuts in place, as they can't turn without the cotter pin shearing.

 

virtually identical post to my recent rear disk change :) viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344&start=15

those febi caps are crap, I used the old ones which are a perfect fit and tap in tightly without needing to be partially crushed :lol:

 

Yeah I used the old caps on my Jetta, shame i didn't have any olds to use this time!

[dutchboy 0]

this is the best build thread ever!!!!!!! Such detail!!

[davidwort 0]

The Bentley said to tighten them until the bearings were juuust touching the races, which seemed a lot less than finger tight so I just nipped them up as best I could with my digits :confused4:

 

I've found over the years that the best way is to nip up very gently with a spanner, back off and then nip up very very gently again, this seems to help the grease squeeze out and them to settle in place, and then as Haynes says the washer should be able to move slightly with a gentle levering with a screwdriver.

either way, don't overdo it and then simply check after a few miles and re-tighten if necessary.

these bearings never hold the wheel tight and should have a small amount of play or the bearings will overheat, you wont feel the play with just the disk bolted up, but it will be evident once the wheel is back on.

[Timbo 0]

I think the jaggy hats actually lock the nuts in place, as they can't turn without the cotter pin shearing.

 

Yup, but I don't mean the nut is going to slacken, I mean the pressed bearing race and the bearings themselves will bed in a bit with use and slacken accordingly. Just something to keep in mind, that's all -- you don't want to be driving around on a slack bearing for too long, and it's impossible to tell if the bearing is slack unless the wheels are off the ground.

 

The "jaggy hats" and the nuts effectively make up what is known as a castellated nut, by the way :). (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castellated_nut)

[Critical_Mass 10]

Shouldnt it be finger tight then put a socket and rachet on it and rest your hand on the rachet - the weight of your hand is how tight it should be.

 

If that makes sense.

 

Anyway...

 

Good work Monkey.... been following this thread and im looking forward to seeing it finished. :D