dinkus

Well I whipped the motor apart and cleared the ton of crud out of it on Sat. It now works, but is rather noisy (grinding noise rather than electrical straining tho). Oooh, now that could be very useful! I couldn't get rid of the boot lid from my old one either, but you should be able to shift the spoiler mech. Heh, thinking about it - I might even still have the mech in my garage... won't be going over to them parts of the country for another few weeks yet tho. If I could alleviate you of the spoiler mech that'd be superb - I don't have anywhere to put the boot lid, but I'm happy to pop around and remove the mech if thats ok?

Erm - isn't it supposed to be a second coat within 4hrs?

Yup, I did everything apart from the motor itelf, so that could well be the bit that's jamming. It still doesn't feel particularly smooth when moving it with the handle though, so I'm not sure. Manual crank handle is pushed in and doesn't catch on anything. coolrado - thanks for the offer - I shall see if I can sort the motor out this weekend, if not I might be getting back in touch :)

Ooh that could do the trick! - are you going to Stonor Park next weekend?

The light/buzzer is for low oil pressure rather than necessarily low oil. If the engine's ok most of the time, take the oil filler cap off with the engine running and check you can see oil sloshing about. If you do, then it's most likely one of the oil pressure sensors. There's one for low pressures (low rpm) and one for high pressures (high rpm) It's not unusual for the low presusre one to go - if it has, you'll notice that the buzzer goes off over about 2krpm and goes off again over 3.5krpm ish. They're about £8 a pop from VW, so not expensive. Pretty easy to replace on the VR, but no idea where they are on the valvers.

Yup, wasn't particularly fun... Sadly, I think it's the actual mech that's jamming - it goes up ok, but you can hear the motor straining when it tries to lower it again. Ho hum, might need to find another mech from somewhere...

You might be able to get the straw of a can of WD40 in the gap in the door and give the latch a good dousing? Give it a while to soak in and it migh free it up enough to open the door again...

I'm happy it was an easy fix, but now I'm annoyed that my hours of swearing at the stupid bastid spoiler mech were mostly in vain :(

If it's pulling to one side too then it could well be the tyre. Try swapping the wheels over to see if the noise follows the tyre... (bear in mind most tyres are directional, so make sure the little arrows on them are pointing in the right direction if you swap stuff about).

Nice find! Heh, I read that the first time as you managing to get a set of 5 for £41! :lol:

So I fixed it, but not because I was trying to. My spoiler has been jamming and popping fuses, so I had removed the fuse for it and left it be. Anyway, this evening I took the mech out, stripped it, re-greased it and put a new fuse in. Sadly it didn't solve the spoiler problem but the ABS light now comes on! :lol: It would appear that the spoiler, sunroof and ABS are all powered off the same fuse...

Ah good to know. I shall mostly be doing that this evening then. And re-greasing my spoiler mech (ooh err).

Yeah, it might work - I've never tried it, but I know a lot of people complain about other seats always sit too high when you put them in a C. I also remember how comically high the seats were in my Mk3 GTI, but no idea if the VR ones are the same.

I shall say nothing of the plans, because they are just that. Will obviously post up here if/when it turns into an actual project :). The fuses are all definitely good - you can see the metal running through them is in one piece. Cheesewire may still have his VAG-COM, but he's now a good 4hr drive away and I'm not sure who has a 2x2 connector round these parts.

From DTA? :) Or Emerald is also pretty good. That's taking the whole aftermarket ECU route though - it's not a straight swap (you may need to re-wire some bits) and they're not cheap (£700+ just for the ECU). It is the way I'd prefer to do it tho...

Surely that's not a real product name?? :lol:

Probably just as well - that's the oil filter housing! (You'd only have drained the 0.5l or so of oil in the filter housing itself rather than the whole car, but worth knowing) There's a plastic thumbscrew that screws into one of the flexible coolant pipes that's for draining the coolant.

I think that although the runners will fit, the seat will sit too high in a C and you will need to cut and weld the subframes to fit. No idea on the back seats tho...

Oh so it's you he was talking about! :lol: I'm usually around after 5 tho, so knock on the door next time you're about. I have been meaning to get VAG-COM for a while, but it's a lotta pennies and I have plans for the C over the summer that would make it redundant... ;)

I believe there's some way you can adjust the DBW throttle sensitivity, as I remember Vince talking about it... no idea how tho. Maybe worth having a look on the uk-mkivs.net forums to see if anybody on there knows?

Ahh ok. Will have a look tomorrow then. Thanks for looking it all up tho :)

Ah cool thanks for that - gives me a list of things to check out tomorrow. I shall let you know how I get on :) Edit: Err, do you know what it means by S16 etc? There are 22 fuses in the panel and number 4 is the one listed for ABS. Is there a cunning code I need to translate to work out which fuses it is?

Yeah, if only I could find my multimeter. Might see if I can pilfer one from work tomorrow evening and buzz it out.

I don't have VAG-COM, but as the light doesn't come on at all (checked the bulb too, should have said that in the first post) and that swapping the ECU with a known-good one hasn't solved it, I suspect the thing's getting no juice, thus VAG-COM won't help. It's all a lot of assumptions tho...

Still no joy, so started a new thread with a more relevant topic here in the hope that it'll get a bit more attention...