dinkus

Mmm wibbly

Even I managed to swap mine, so it's not all that hard. The old one may need a little 'persuasion' to come out tho as mine had ceased pretty much solid in the block.

Nope mine are pretty much horizontal, if not slightly below... And handles just fine... TBH you'll only notice any difference right at the limit anyway.. You'll most likely notice it in the form of bump-steer. The suspension geometry isn't correct, so going over a bump will tug the steering wheel to one side, depending on which side of the car hits the bump.

I knew somebody would comment as I was writing that, I just expected it to be dinkus! :lol: Yeah sorry - the 8hr time difference to Hong Kong dilutes my witty retort response time a bit :lol:

Once you've got all the screws out and popped the light holder out it's just a case of hauling on it. The bottom of the glovebox is the bit that catches tho, so maybe trying to bend the bottom up a bit might help.

Oh dude that's harsh :( I'd definitely give your local chipsaway type guy a call (Yellow Pages should have a few listed) and get them to come and have a look. I'd imagine it's the kind of thing they can probably sort out for under £100.

Ohh shame, it was all looking so good until the crappy half-cage and the shot of the owner :roll: Nice car tho :D

The (3?) ABS relays are directly behind the glovebox (oh what a joy it is to remove) and as Steve says, ECU down behind the kick panel to the left of the passenger footwell. There's 3 nuts that screw down to hold it in place, then a metal clamp over the plug that holds that in. Use a screwdriver to lever the metal clamp up and it'll push the connector off as it swings open. The fusebox cover says the ABS is supposed to be wired into I think fuse 16, but mine (93 K plate) was wired into the same fuse as the sunroof and spoiler (no idea what is actually wired to fuse 16). I'd just check all of the fuses to make sure they're good, or at least test all of the 15A ones.

As above - I'd go for all-VAG bushes. There's a reason why the Corrado got such great reviews about it's handling... I don't think you can get Pagid FR pads any more (might be wrong), but from my experience using them - they're dusty as heck. Despite previous reputations of them being shockingly bad, the new EBC Greenstuff pads are supposed to be very good and far less dusty. Eibach ARBs are supposed to be better than the standard ones, but I'd have a search to see what you think. Brakes wise, I'd go for either VAG disks or alternatively the Black Diamond ones seem to get pretty good reviews. It would certainly be worth changing the brake fluid, as it's probably not been done for a long time. 5.1 is the best stuff to go for, but not hugely cheap, but even new bog standard DOT 4 will hopefully improve the brake feel a bit. I think you've got to spend a fair amount of money (£600 for the Brembos?) for any kind of upgrade to the callipers, but S2 brakes or Seat Brembos apparently fit. Without bigger brakes, there seems very little need to bother with braided hoses, but check what the hoses look like and get them changed if they're starting to look a bit ropey. If they haven't been done before, it could be worth investing in some calliper rebuild kits for the front callipers, which gives you a new set of seals and grease. Either way, I'd definitely get a set of carrier repair kits as the boots on the slider pins often split, which causes the pins to rust and cease - particularly on the back of the car. While you're in there, it'd also be worth checking that both of the handbrake cables still move freely as the boots can also split on them and also cause ceasage.

I would have said it probably adds about 30kg actually :lol: But it is totally pointless - it's not a full cage, it's not welded into the chassis and it's chrome plated, thus must also be the wrong grade of steel to be FIA spec :roll:

The sub enclosure looks like an Audioscape one, the same as I've got. There's a stud that sticks out of the chassis by the boot light and a hole in the back of the sub enclosure. So you put the enclosure onto the stud, put a washer and a wing nut on it, put sub in enclosure, put grille on :) They're sturdy as you like and look superb, but they are £130ish I think from Audioscape...

General rule of thumb seems to be about 40% off whatever they cost in Machine Mart, but it's just a ballpark...

The man knows what he's talking about :)

I believe there's going to be compressors included in the monster group buy that a guy on the Westfield forum does - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=57935 They won't be here until Crimob kinda time, but it'll save you a tidy amount...

Just don't put it on the belt itself else thou shalt lose an ear/fingers/face/other body part :lol:

I wouldn't worry about it too much - as the guys have said, if you stick to reversible stuff then it doesn't matter. The real dilemma comes when you see how much the genuine VAG parts cost compared with uprated aftermarket ones. I'd certainly avoid putting new VAG suspension on tho, it's rediculously high.

Doooo it! :D But does the fact that so many Corrados keep coming in to be fixed not suggest they may not be the most sensible choice? :lol:

Ooh ok, very interesting.

I'm sure there's a convertible Corrado about somewhere that's rear-engine, rear-wheel drive. But it begs the question of why? If you're going for something unique, then cool - knock your socks off. But if you're doing it to be a track weapon, then you'll be far better off getting a proper track car...

It's not actually too much of a bugger to do - the hardest part is getting the swine out and in of the boot. You'll need to unclip and unbolt the boot central locking actuator and remove it (can leave the vacuum hose attached) to get the main mech out, but it is a bastid. Sadly my motor's never gonna be the same again I don't think, so if I can remember, I'm gonna go pick one up from a guy this week...

Having disassembled mine twice in the last couple of weeks I can say that it's almost certainly not the plastic tube bits and you shouldn't need to grease them. However, as per the vortex thread - it is almost certainly gunk in the cables and in my case, inside the motor itself. Mine is now working again, but it's not very happy about it as the motor makes a fair bit of a grinding noise.

It sounds like it probably is one of the ABS cages, but get it on VAG-COM to be sure (yes it does work on G60s, but only for the ABS).

Pic removed - no need to provoke things...

Yeah, sadly no joy tho :( From the scattered bits of info I can find, the Pioneer one is sounding favourite, but it's a bit crap that you have to pay an extra £60 or so for the USB port.

Does anybody know of a decent website or two that do reviews of head units? I'm looking for a single-DIN video head unit with a pop-out screen and I've narrowed it down to the following three, but would like to read a few reviews before I blow a large wedge on one. Pioneer AVH-P5900DVD Alpine IVA-D105R Kenwood KVT-829DVD