dinkus

Yum :)

Bear in mind torque is the destroyer of 'boxes not bhp. So even though even the older turbo diesel goofs et al are pretty weedy on the bhp front, they've got oodles of torque and the 'boxes are designed to take it. Having said that - I know nothing of gearboxes and which one would fit to what :lol:

I think that Stealth charge somewhere in the region of £700 for timing chains and clutch. If you've already got the head and gasket, then it wouldn't be much more work to fit that at the same time, so call that £750. VT mounts are probably 2hrs to do, 288mm brakes and bleeding are probably another 2hrs so call that another £100. Re-maps are about £300 with the chip, I think? Add at least another hundred quid cos you never know... No idea on the Samcos or Raceland, but I'd guess an overall bill of £2k or so isn't far off.

Are the front speakers running through the same amp too and are they ok? If so, have you tried switching cables over and seeing if the nosie follows the output on the head unit or the input on the amp? If not, it's useful to try an mp3 player or similar with an RCA lead hanging out of it - turn the volume right down on it first, plug it in, turn the ignition on and then play something at low volume and see if you get hum. If you don't, then try it again connecting it to the long cables you've got running through the car (would also need some RCA barrel connetors to plug it all together) If that works, then it's most definitely your head unit. Have you got a 3 year old or so Pioneer head unit? There's a known issue with them (mine being one of them) that means the bugger whines like hell even though everything's earthed properly because the head unit isn't properly earthed inside.

I thought this was gonna feature a picture where you'd polished clean through your paintwork :lol:

All engines need a means of generating a spark and there are two main ways to do this. 1. Single coil and a distributor This is the way it's been done since the dawn of time - you have a single coil that generates a spark which is sent along what's called the 'king lead' into the distributor. A distributor is just that - it distributes the spark to each spark plug. Inside the dizzy is a wheel with a point on the edge of it that spins around with the engine. The centre of the wheel is connected to the king lead. In a circle pattern around the edges of the dizzy are the 6 (or 4 or 10 or whatever) connectors that go to your HT leads to each spark plug. The coil and the dizzy are linked together so that the coil generates a spark just at the same time (near enough) as the wheel in the dizzy is reaching one of the connectors to the HT lead. Thus the coil generates a bunch of sparks and the dizzy sends them in order to the spark plugs. 2. Coilpack Later on, the cost of the coils came down significantly, so it was easier to have a pack of coils which replaced the original single coil and distributor. This had the advantage of remove the mechanical distributor which needs maintenance and could be relatively unreliable. The coilpack has six coils in it - each one connected to a different spark plug via the HT leads and each coil fires when it's needed. It's actually a bit more complicated than that, but it gives you the gist of it :)

As far as I know... Pros and cons of fitting each type of ECU: Stock ECU Pros Cheap(er) Lots of people have done it More OEM VAG-COM will still work Cons Modify the pedal box to put sensors on them for the DBW lark Fit the Mk4 clocks Haul apart most of the fusebox (I think). Modify the loom to bypass the built-in immobiliser Modify the loom to tidily fit the engine bay After market ECU Pros You can have a better engine map from the start Don't have DBW, so the pedal box doesn't need to be modified Don't have a stupid built-in immobiliser, so you don't need to fit the Mk4 clocks Can re-map it any time you like (even while you're driving!) Cons You need to swap the throttle for a non-DBW one (don't know what with, but it can be done) It's more expensive than using the OE stuff It needs to be mapped before you can use it (you get a base map from the supplier which will work, but it won't be optimal) Need to make your own loom (not as hard as it sounds and you can buy them, but that's another £160 or so to buy, £75ish to make yourself) VAG-COM won't work (but you do have a laptop interface to the ECU to tell you most things) It's not as OEM As far as manifolds go - I don't think you can fit the 12v ones, but even if you could, you'd be mad to. The 24v manifolds all have the Shrick style dual inlets with flap on them. You're going to need to get some kind of hybrid thing going on for coolant pipes and moving the resevoir to the left does seem to make sense (not a huge task). I'd be tempted to see what standard pipes you can use, or just get a set of Samcos made up instead. (not cheap at £150 or so, but no more expensive than a set of new VAG ones). I think the battery can stay put on the right-hand side though.

Go pop down to uncle Vince - he's got the bits you need to re-attach the pins into the plug :)

The wheel and tyre bible is also linked to from the wiki :)

Have you checked the element for continuity? i.e. does a current get all the way from one end to the other? There's a heated seat repair guide in the wiki, but I'm not sure how much help that'll be if there aren't any breaks in the elements.

Don't see any reason why not, but you can take a look at the MOT manual here to double check :) Even if you have 16s on the back and 17s on the front, the rolling radius should still be very similar.

Yeah it is a pea-roast, but we'll let you off for now :)

ROFL, that's funny :lol:

Ah well there ya go - I don't think Karmann even know when the change over was because it all depended on what part came out of the big parts bin first :lol:

I'll have a gander tomorrow, but surely thats quite hard to spot? It all gets a bit snug around the air box. I'm toying with the idea of sticking a k&n on it that i have in the workshop, just for that noise.... :roll: Would be a good excuse to do it. Yup, and I'm not even 100% sure that's where it is :lol: And mine's a dizzy 2.9 VR, they changed over to coilpacks sometime in 94.

Cool stuff, but pea-roast :) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57763

The engine code will give it away - AAA is the 2.8, ABV is the 2.9 I think it's stamped on the engine down on the driver's side by the airbox somewhere, but could be wrong.

Cam position sensor would be my bet, but you really need to get the old girl on VAG-COM...

It'll almost certainly be the fuel pressure regulator. Have a search and you should hopefully find :)

That pulse under the pedal isn't the ABS - it's the servo pressurising. Mine did that even when the ABS was completely disconnected from the power. The pulse that indicates the ABS is working happens when you first go over 15kph I believe. I'd guess the dealers want more than £20 for a new light, but I'm sure if you put a wanted ad up on here someone would have one you could use.

"only" 59€ plus shipping?! There's a few threads on doing it on here - have a search and you should be able to find them.

I'm pretty sure the chromed ones are discontinued from the stealers, but the primed ones are still available for £15 or so.

Heh heh, nothing like a bit of plug and switch syndrome. I had the same thing with my ABS last week... works so much better when all the sensors are plugged in :lol:

Well if there's no ABS pump under the bonnet and no ABS light in the dash, they should be able to work it out...

:salute: :)