davidwort

yep, same pads, front and rear, I don't mean you fit the rear pads on the front BTW :lol:

err, no, it won't, the mk1 is far shorter than the corrado and the hangars are all different, even if you have an early hook type corrado system. I'm also pretty sure the Corrados all use a larger bore system than mk1's.

early mk3 GTI's use 280 fronts, same caliper and carrier mk3 rear calipers go on with no mods or hose changes on the back

do you have cruise control or something on that car? any chance of a wider view to see what's what?

7 sec 1/4 mile Corrado, nearly PMSL :lol:

to the flaps that direct the flow of air, you can see them if you remove the passenger side under dash tray and look up behind the centre console.

my advice would be to look for the best condition car, put the engine choice to one side, the 1.8 and 2.0 both have their pros and cons, you've got the complication of emissions controls on the 2.0 but gain ABS and the later exterior and interior (there are a few changeover 2L cars with early interiors) on the 2L. Generally the later 2L cars will have more solid bodies, but at all of their ages it comes down more to individual vehicles. As standard cars, the 2L has better mid range torque but the 1.8 revs higher and pulls for longer, the result being they are roughly the same flat out, the 1.8 needing a few more gear changes in general driving.

well ther's only the pump, filter and pressure accumulator, so I'd imagine it was the accumulator.

I think they were one-offs or special coachbuilt aftermarket jobs, like hearses :lol: There's one or two older XJS's built as estates too, just wrong, jags should be big saloons or coupes, not mondeo based either!

to be fair Kev, I think you probably service/change not too mention use your rear brake components more than the average owner, rear disks tend to sit on people's cars for years.

I wouldn't like to run them without for long, especially over the winter, the rear gets so much crud thrown up at it you're bound to get problems.

there's no valve in the matrix itself so it could be a couple of things. 1 no water in the matrix, i.e. air, the water is down on level for some reason 2 blocked flow through or to the matrix, could be faulty by-pass valves from the recall work feel the hoses to and from the matrix at the bulkhead, that'll give you a clue

have you had a new lambda?, also, pattern generic ones can be a iffy on the 2L 16v.

can you post up those graphs? would be interesting to compare.

AFAIK mk2 top mounts are weaker than golf 2 G60 ones (the passat/early c type) so you could probably fit a pair but only as a temporary measure. In fact quite a few mk2 owners use the corrado/passat/G60 mount as an upgrade :)

not as far as I know, they are so cheap, especially as aftemarket items, that they always get thrown away and totally replaced. It's a passat item, so should be quite widely available?

whatever they were they appear to come with the new panel only ,not a separate part, no use anyway if the lugs are bust off though.

your's sounds much like mine, although my self tappers and washers have lasted years :lol: once the lugs on the back have bust off there's not much else you can do but double sided trim tape them on really I don't think, rubbish design for such an exposed large part of trim :roll:

vibration reducing counterweight for the subframe, it isn't needed but like various refinements on the Corrado it's a development of the mk2 golf chassis.

a long time ago (like 10 years lol ) I wrote this up: 4 * 15A relay dip beam left dip beam right main beam + driving lamp left main beam + driving lamp right 4* inline fuses + holders rated at 15A (relays can be purchased that contain a fuse mount) red and black cable rated at up to 15A, alternatively red + 2 other colours(dip,main,driving) + black or brown (relay earths) depending on location of relays etc., more than 10 metres of red (or 4m of each colour) and a couple of metres of black/brown cable is required spade end connectors: 16 female for relays 8 female for fuse holders 6 female for relay to light bulbs 4 female for switching feeds (i.e. existing loom +12v feeds to bulb filaments) TOTAL= 34 6 male for light bulb to relay join 4 male for switching feed to relay join TOTAL= 10 Note: get far more than you need, you always make some mistakes/bugger some up. plastic sheaths for above (usually male and female ones) 1 earth terminal round connector (roughly 4 times duty of spade connectors) 1 +12v terminal round connector (same as above) cable wrap or heat shrink tubing, couple of metres small tie-wraps box to house relays (keeps things tidy if you go for a 4 relay setup) good quality crimping tool Phillips screwdriver (longish) - you will need to remove both headlights - easy. As an alternative to the connectors above, you may be able to source male and female connector blocks and connectors (three-way), I've seen them in body-kit headlight setups, but they may be expensive and difficult to find, the connectors are a larger, less common size. The advantage of using these would be not having to cut any wires in the existing loom.

Until I started tinkering with my valver it used to warm up to bang on middle of the gauge and pretty much sit bang on there even when driven hard, Like all the other old and new VAG cars I've had or driven, but that was when the car was under 10 years old and with all original components in the cooling system. Since then I've had different rads, different hoses, a couple of different blocks, a different water pump, thermostat and the wiring and sensors and the dash are obviously ageing, not surprisingly it doesn't read exactly the same as it used to. But, with a standard new VW rad in there now it does run a little hotter on the gauge than it used to years ago, which I tend to think is down to a slightly different engine capacity. I do however tend to put more faith in the oil temp and I've checked the gauge to be fairly accurate with an IR hand held sensor and an MOT sump probe temp sensor.

it certainly looks like you could only ever order a complete bumper with cover and iron for each of the early/late models, or just the cover, not the iron on it's own, which makes me think the iron and brackets are universal, it would seem odd if they did alter them as the rear bumper was just a cosmetic change whereas the front was designed to fit the wider late front wings.

the chassis/inner wing and hub are identical on the 1.8 and 2L, differences are all in the springs, spring top plates, top mount etc, although the spring rates are probably all wrong I've seen more than one 1.8 16v running on coilovers from a VR6. so at worst I'd imagine all you'd need fopr the coilovers would be new top mounts, which is probably a good idea anyway.

it's only the inlet cam that is any different, the exhausts are the same, for even more lift look out for a pair of lumpy sticks from a mk3 16v or ibiza cupra with the 2L 16v 'ABF' engine. The odd Passat even had this engine in around 1995/6.

where exactly is the leak from, the favourite problem is where the flexi part of the pressure hose joins the metal pipe section before it goes into the rack, duff pump pressure relief valves can over-stress the union here and start a leak.