davidwort

Now every one with web access can find out you leave your car running unattended for 5 minutes every morning, hope it's still there tomorrow :lol:

Cheers guys :) I'm thinking injectors as from what I understand, poor atomisation is made worse by low ambient temps, just not familiar with the digifant injectors and don't want to make things worse, I suppose I could call an injector cleaner specialist and see if they do digi squirters

Digifant 8v (2E engine), it runs smoothly, good power excellent cruising mpg, timing set correctly, recon head, new cat and lambda sensor, good plugs, new leads etc but one small annnoying trait. When the car is cold (ambient temp under about 10 degrees), if you start and drive away immediately it's jerky on the throttle, give it 20 secs driving, or idle for 20 secs after starting and it's fine. I've also checked and renewed earths, ignition coil to head etc, even checked the 4 pin water temp sensor is showing within-range resistance and swapped to a spare I have, problem still persists. cleaned throttle body, ISV etc. It's not major, just annoying I can't get to the bottom of it. I'm currently thinking injector spray pattern/delivery as it's on 150K, any ideas anyone before I take the injectors off for refurb/replacement? The only other possible culprit is the schrick cam it has in it, it's mild and doesn't really affect idle, but perhaps the standard map isn't suitable when the ambient temp is very cold?

yes, I agree, just buy a VR6 in the first place. the only reason I can think of doing it would be if you have a mint bodied 16v with a blown engine and a rusty and battered but mechanically sound VR.

I'm definitely in an fm radio dead spot near me, up until recently DAB was also so bad I didn't bother replacing a little home DAB set I had bought bought a dirt cheap FM one instead (I think it's because I'm in between 3 main transmitter areas), with the turning off of analogue TV some other signals have been boosted which seems to have affected some transmissions, might not be your issue Jim but I do notice major stations vary in signal strength from location to location a lot. I think my aerial amp might be fried again too though, reception also not helped by the crappy head unit in my 8v, you could try disconnecting the power to your roof aerial amp and seeing if the same pattern of poor reception comes back? Oh, and I listen to 4 a lot in the car too Jim, commercial radio is appauling and Radio 1 has too much pointless and poor talking, at least with 4 in the morning and evening commute I get to hear something about the world that's usually interesting, program on fracking the other day on the way home :)

Nope, he didn't fit a mk4 rack as far as I remember, I do remember him posting about the quite different input shaft angle and how it wouldn't fit the Corrado.

it says 'used' on the ad

£165 !!! ...my headlights are now worth more than my car (with headlights) then :scratch: never thought I'd be thinking about getting glass etched with the reg number again

general advice I've been given by mechanics is not to use flushing agents on old engines, there's always the possibility of blocking the oil pump pickup with dislodged crud or worsenening leaks from seals and gaskets, if it's that bad that frequent oil changes don't help then buy some new tappets, it's not very practical stripping and cleaning them. I was also once told that you can tell the dodgy tappets from the OK ones by pulling out, sticking on the bench and seeing the ones that collapse.

you've been hitting the acid again??? my brain is extremely limited, so anything infinite is a real problem for me, but I suppose there's always the possibility there's another forum in another world in another galaxy where the Corrado isn't the best car on that planet?

our's always have, 2 polos, 3 old golfs, a jetta, a passat, an Audi 80, a6, 2 corrados, a mk4 and a MK 5 golf, the only one that didn't/doesn't is the modified 16v which likes a good flow of air and some revs or the gauge rises a little higher. I find my handheld IR thermometer really useful, you can check sump temp, head temp, water inlet and outlet temps, different parts of the radiator, it's shown the Corrado oil temp gauge to be quite accurate and also inline with the mot testing sump oil temp probe, but I've no doubt that old wiring, especially in the engine bay, dodgy earths, sensors and even gauges/ clusters can give some variation.

arch liners in the way? from what I remember from last time, the metal strip underneath holding the back lower edge of the bumper cover and spoiler to the radiator support panel needs removing too, it act as a sort of 'U' clamp right along the bottom of the bumper cover

No, the search isn't the greatest, google might be better! gear oil on the manual gearbox is easy, no filter, magnetic drain plug catches some stuff from the old oil, just drain from the 17mm plug underneath and fill (nearly 2 litres) from the front 17mm plug, redline mt90 is similar to the correct spec vw synthetic gear oil, or castrol smx-s, now called 'syntrax'? is another alternative (here in the uk) vw mineral gearbox oil will be good, the correct vw synthetic will be good too. All vw petrol engines of this era prefer 10/40 engine oil, pay for fully synthetic if you want but a reasonable 10/40 semi synthetic regularly changed will do you well. brake fluid is just your regular stuff and pas fluid is green hydraulic fluid (absolutely NOT ATF red fluid!), general stuff like Citroen LHM suspension hydraulic fluid or preferably vws own, febi-bilstein also make a similar vw fluid. Fuel filter is the canister under the back rear of the car, easy to change.

Radio 4 had a good programme on this yesterday, I didn't realise for instance that we have been extracting gas from underground in the UK (up to about 1200 metres) for over 50 years, and any gas leaks into groundwater are caused by the drilling and not the fracking at depth, fracking goes down lower to about 3000m, and tremors triggered by fracking will reduce the likelyhood of a larger 'natural' tremor that might actually do damage years later in the same location.

Get a kr mk2 kit and then buy separate hose lengths and elbows to complete.

To be fair your description paints a pretty bad picture, with bad corrosion and a blown engine you're not left with much, someone with the time, space and inclination could strip it and make a few hundred quid or alternatively attempting a restoration could be a bottomless pit, sounds like near 500 quid isn't such a bad offer.

welcome, and take a look here first: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html

vacuum leaks usually, check all the vac lines and the inlet rubber elbows for splits/leaks, is the breather from the engine to the airbox OK? it's generally an air metering problem that causes this (i.e. a problem after the metering head airflow plate in the inlet route) as the ignition and fuel delivery don't usually give a problem unless they've been messed with. Inspect everything carefully and check the idle circuit is being switched on by the microswitch on the throttle body.

if you do take the headlight out, which I agree is by far the easiest way of changing the bulbs, put some cardboard or carpet on the ground in front of the car, you don't want to be dropping the light unit on the ground if it slips while you are trying to unclip the loom from the light, ideally you need 4 hands to do this.

you need to remove the power steering pump to get at the 90 degree plastic elbow on the bottom of the water pump, the hose connected to there goes straight to the bottom of the radiator. all you need is a new thermostat and the O ring that seals the elbow to the pump, and new coolant as virtually all of it will drain out. It's a fiddle to change the stat as you have to hold it up as you put it and the sealing ring in place and bolt up the elbow again, much easier with the water pump off, but if your water pump is fine there's no need to disturb it. Just be careful not to overtighten the 2 10mm bolts that hold the elbow on, they only need a very low torque. When refilling the coolant, do it very slowly onto the header tank, an upturned 2L fizzy drinks bottle with a small hole in the cap is ideal, this helps reduce trapped air, make sure at least 3 Litres of new coolant goes in bfeore running the car (full capacity is about 4 Litres ) and top up after running the first time if necessary, squeezing the top and bottom radiator hoses helps to force some trapped air out as you refill.

Does sound like a stuck open stat.

It's definitely a different part number, it might affect fuel pressure but I don't know for sure Pl also uses the smaller diameter fuel pump so I'm assuming the kr is higher pressure as it uses the larger one

yeah, made me laugh, so it's Safe For Work now then :scratch:

that's interesting, and I'd say keeping relays inside the car is a much better option to under the bonnet, improving the voltage and adding higher output (new) bulbs will make a huge difference, does that mean you'll keep dim-dip too?

I've taken a few pics of my early and late wings, HTH