davidwort

Cheers, yep it is, will bear that in mind :)

Cheers Steve, I replaced the steering lock and barrel recently but not the ignition switch itself, but it seemed good and there's never any trouble with the electrics coming on or it cranking. battery is new and I cleaned and securely fastened all the connections. seems like the hall sender could be past it, it's certainly original.

Mrs was driving the 8v this morning, it apparently just stuttered, juddered to a halt and died. After waiting a couple of minutes she managed to start it and drive home fine. It has had a few slow starts recently, turning over a good few seconds before running, whereas it usually starts on the button. Generally the car runs very smoothly, good mpg, just passed MOT/emissions very healthy. What do you reckon I should check? Fuel pump relay?

;)

Spelling and capital 'I's plus I don't think 'outraged' reads very well, how about: Hi I recently purchased the above item for my corrado vr6 from you. The top mounts were installed just over a week ago and since then the car has only been driven 80 miles. I was shocked to find that the top mounts have split and broken up with the suspension struts coming up through them. I think this is completely unacceptable, not to mention dangerous, and if I hadn't noticed that the rubber had broken up, my suspension and bonnet could have been damaged potentially causing an accident. I think it's unacceptable to sell a product so unfit and dangerous to install onto a vehicle. I hope you will make an attempt to rectify this fault and fix the product so no-one else has to experience this. here is a link to some pictures of what has happened: http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...6-28174516.jpg http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...6-28174602.jpg I expect a full refund, and that you re-evaluate this product.

Oops! I wonder where these come from, Chinese copies perhaps?, I picked up some for the mk4 from gsf yesterday and they look pretty good, garage has had no problem fitting gsf ones to some pretty heavy mk4 cars either

You'll feel the brake pedal pulsate if the abs operates, I think you need to take the front calipers off the carriers and check the operate freely, sliders and pistons

I'm sure yandards said the c130 Hercules uses taper bearings :) i can't see it's worth it, granted, changing the rear disks on my mk4 was easy compared to the corrado, but now I've finally mastered fitting and tightening the rear taper bearings all that effort and cost to fit (heavier?) sealed units seems a bit of a waste. I reckon it had more to do with weight of vehicles than anything else that vw moved to these rather than design a new larger taper bearing which would probably have ended up being heavier than the equivalent strength sealed bearing and disk.

Yep, I've had the same thing on ie for a while

Just add some slick 50 and some splitfire plugs and you'll have another 50 brake :lol: But in all seriousness, fuel companies spend a few quid on detergent research themselves???

Very sceptical, particularly for modern engines that have been run on decent fuel.

Dodgy wire to the sensor or loose connector or sensor, loose sensor caused this to happen for me.

I'd say it was injectors, the cold start injector doesn't help matters. On K/KE-jet it seems it's easy for the engine to start with too much fuel sucked into one or more of the cylinders and it takes a little while for the engine to balance out with a clean even burn on all four cylinders. K-jet injectors can give a pretty poor spray pattern at idle when they get old and with the poor fuel atomisation on a cold and/or starting engine the result is pretty rough running for a little while, usually helped by a few gentle extra revs.

In my experience you just fill the system up with fluid and turn it lock to lock with the engine running (preferably front jacked off the gound) until all the bubbles make their way out of the rack and it quietens down, this will also happen from regular driving eventually too. The pumps can be spun round by hand with the belt off and fluid in the system but that won't make any difference to the rack and they seem to fill with fluid fine whether you prime them by hand or not. I reckon you've done the pump in, but the noise of air in the rack has nothing to do with noisy bearings in the pump, the pump should be quiet from first start of the engine unless the belt is too tight or loose and slipping.

or you could buy a better looking and handling VW with a nicer driving position and interior with the same engine from the same year for half the price :)

have a good search on the forum, the windscreen and trim needs to be fitted 'properly' and is unfortunately bodged by most fitters not familiar with the screen and trim. It's not neccessarily difficult to do, it's just they don't follow the correct steps. This results in broken trim, leaking screens, corrosion and a visibly poor looking fitment.

what, the haircuts?

I think you misunderstood there, I think he's on about the scuttle cover the corrado never had, i.e. what's in the pic but on the driver's side, or perhaps just the passat small cover that goes over just the motor itself.

Same as any vw from the era, two little L shaped brackets should go from the top of the slam panel into the top ends of the rad. cover is just cosmetic and to keep fingers off the hot rad top

Whole thing is boring me now, so what people network and look to others in positions of power, tell me something I don't know. More important to us is the mess that is the euro zone, that could f # @ $ all of us up.

Current model or the last shape? Both good cars. My sister has a previous shape. Petrol. But the diesel is pretty good They are nice to drive and most have climate etc but some bits can seem a bit plastic on the older ones

My damp problem turned out to be a missing fixing plug for the rear corrado badge. Water ran under the carpet so the carpet itself didnt feel damp condensation especially on the rear screen was terrible until I found this, door seals were leaking a bit but the boot was the main issue

I'd do a 1.8t for the availability and potential, cost and simplicity plus it's not too heavy and will help retain the corrado 'poise' the only real negatives are sound and soul, 2l fsi turbo would be nice but there's way more installation and technical issues to overcome Or tdi it, you could get monster torque from a tuned 2l 16v tdi

Sounds like a ropey stat, should stay pretty much bang on midway all the time, radiator temp switch might not be behaving on both temp switching points for the two speed rad fan either.

I'd only use that stuff as a cheap attempt to slow a leak on an old run-around, not a performance car, much like rad-weld. But I also seriously doubt it would make much difference to a crank seal anyway, maybe a weeping head gasket, but not a main moving part seal.