davidwort

Follow the lambda wiring back from the sensor to make sure there's no damage, but yes they just unscrew and plug in, access can be a pita though and old sensors can be tight in the exhaust/cat. You can cut the old lambda wiring to get a socket or ring spanner on, but you might struggle getting leverage especially if the car is just on axle stands.

it should slide silky smooth, if it's old then the inner cable may have worn through the outer sleeves plastic liner and you've got metal on metal, usually at the sharp bend in the cable above the inlet manifold, need a new cable I reckon.

unclip it from the throttle body (don't lose the little u shaped clip) and manually slide the inner cable in and out, does it move smoothly or grab and stick?

yep, same as Steve, Jason, just cut a ring off my new ones and they then worked fine on my 30-40mm lower springs. Some of the dust cover shroud things are shorter too, the mk3 ones I bought from GSF are shorter than the original ones and more suited to the lower suspension.

Think you're looking for chickens teeth with a high spec 8v, always worth keeping you're options open, but I have to say if you do find a tidy one, the 8v is very easy to live with.

thinking about it, I don't think the early 16v door cards had the cutout in the card for the door speakers even, I fitted some to mine though with not much effort, crossovers behind the dash and tweeters in the dash speaker locations like you say, not ideal as the tweeters will be reflecting off the windscreen, but the corrado isn't exactly ideal for top-end sound anyway :)

1990 16v won't have door speakers only dash ones, unless it had an optional 'AKTIV' system fitted, easy enough to fit some 5 1/4 inch drivers in there though, but you may have to be a little creative with fixings.

Best thing about the forum, always nice to see offers to help each other out like that :)

Be handy if someone local to you with vag-com could help you out, would help diagnose any issues much quicker. A friendly mot station might check your lambda signal for little, but unless you use a vag specialist it's unlikely they can check sensor behaviour and signal ranges etc., having said that, most garages should be able to do an obd1 scan for faults recorded.

Yep, it's all the same, only the mk3 abf inlet is significantly different

they're not that heavy, a bottom end can be lifted by one person into the back of an estate car and the head is heavy but you can lift one up and into the engine bay on it's own easy enough, I had a 2L bubble block (slightly heavier than 1.8) on a very small stand/frame on a workbench, nothing special is needed.

yep, just whack it on the KR bottom end and everything else will bolt up, if it has been gasflowed well it will make a few more hp at the top end so worth using.

Based on what they want it for I'd go for a mk5 1.6 FSI sport, slower, but simpler and a 6 speed box, parents have one and it's been very good, bar a glitch with the EBD switching off, very economincal too, not sure when it was discontinued though??? I wouldn't bet on the TFSI being as trouble free as an old mk3 when it gets to a similar age.

You need a 0-5 or a 0-10 bar gauge and the equivalent range sender to screw into the oil filter housing, the wiring for the sender should already be in the loom to near the oil filter bracket and terminate behind/near the fuseboard. you then need to fit the 52mm round VDO type gauge in a suitable location, either make a twin gauge panel to fit in the dash cubby hole or you may still be able to get (SWG?) air vent replacement for a single gauge in the centre of the console. Other than that a separate pod would be needed. Lighting, earth and extension from fusebox wiring needs attaching, power should be from an ignition switched feed and lighting from one of the existing dash lights. The gauges and senders pop up on ebay or various suppliers do them new, just do a few web searches.

You might get away without using the arch lip fixings to the wing, there are 4 or 5 8mm headed fixings holding the liner to the inner wing and two fixings to the brake ducts on early cars, that might be enough to keep the liner rigid. I've just had the passenger wing off again and it looks that way anyway, but you would get more moisture up into the inner wing area when it's very wet without that even join from the liner to the arch.

Yeah, filled for life but will have a lot of wear off the gears and synchros floating about in it by now :)

Drain from the bottom and fill from the front 17mm hex plug, make sure you can loosen the front fill hole first :)I have a 17mm Allen socket and small breaker bar which makes it a doddle on boxes that have never been refilled. A long tube for the gear oil bottle makes filling easier too, fill until it just drains out of the front fill hole, on level ground of course.

pop to a local garage and get them to air-gun the front top mount bolts loose (the ones under the bonnet), save you a lot of time and grief if you don't have the special slotted socket tool to do it with. Otherwise it's an easy job although the rear parcel shelf supports need to come out and the camber will need re-setting on the front afterwards.

should be one on both sides between wing and inner wing

I wouldn't buy the e-bay ones simply because of the problem of returning anything that is faulty or fails early, GSF and ECP have always been very good at replacing faulty parts for me if anything does fail, and I have had good and bad results with pattern top mounts of that type, ultimately though if you plan to keep the car or have uprated suspension, VAG ones may be a worthwhile investment.

Just changed the heater unit on mine, bottom fixing into engine bay was siezed, what a pita that was, but it was the first time I'd done a matrix and like you say it's really not too bad to do.

4 cylinder up to 1994, or vr6 and late 4 cyl? Pattern bits can vary wildly in quality but vag bits will be 4 times the cost for early one piece mounts.

Try to find someone who works for, or retired from working for Ford, just discovered my father in law gets 50% discount on most parts!, think galaxy v6 :)

Only 16.50 delivered for the heated ones from gpc too. Don't think any UK spec cars had unheated ones.

Then take off 10% for speedo inaccuracy :)