Hairyarse

What I'd pay to be free of rattles!! lol Must be the regulator then. Any interior pics to spoil us with?? ;)

That does look a good price, and with a connector too, not bare wires to splice in.

I do miss my 944 Turbo, but not enough to give up the VR6. Given it's my daily, overall I prefer the C. MK1 MX5 is a great little car, such a great chassis. Had some fun in one last summer!

Sounds like you're making good progress then. Maybe it's worth just biting the bullet and replacing the lambda for peace of mind, then stick the timing back.

Welcome! That looks pretty tidy. At 41k miles is it free of trim rattles??

A VR6 breaker appeared on Gumtree yesterday for £300. As soon as I clicked through from my notification email to view it, it had gone! lol

Nice puppy!! :thumbleft: How big will it get?

Don't be too down-hearted Wayne. At least you've got answers to some of the problems now and the Prelude looks tidy :thumbleft:

Thanks Sean ;) I'm glad it's not leaking any more, but then I'm permanently 'clenched' waiting for it to blow! lol

Thanks for the feeback chaps ;) If I remove the sensor will I lose a lot of oil or is it just a weep?

The sensor on the front of the engine block by the filter housing and oil cooler seems to be weeping oil. I've nipped the securing bolt up although it wasn't really loose which may have stopped it. However, I wanted to check parts base to see if there's an O-ring or similar to seal it but can't find it on there. Here's a pic of it; Also, looks like there's leaks from the cooler. Does this remove with the filter housing and can you get a refurb kit or similar for it?

Oh no that sucks Toby :( When I bought the car and had the original idle/stalling issues (which was the poor connection to the lambda - think I told you that bit?) I did check the TPS operation. With the engine off you can hear it click quietly as soon as you open the throttle butterfly. It was working ok from that point of view. Maybe worth checking the lambda connections again to ensure they're ok. The garage opposite me stuck a chock-block on and taped up. It seemed solid enough so I didn't touch it again but you never know.

I got the car up in the air this afternoon and had a good nose around. The rad does look new and there's no signs of leaks. The only trace of coolant anywhere to be found is in the pic below. Just behind the alternator (I take it this is the crack pipe?) and also on the bottom of the alternator bracket. However, running the car, absolutely nothing is leaking out anywhere - and not here. Could there have been an air lock in the system that 'farted' it's way out? Saying that I've never had any temp issues with the car.

Ah ok thanks mate ;) I'm guessing this would have been replaced too but will check his build thread :)

....btw what's the crack pipe?? Didn't know these were used on cars too!! lol

Yeah I need a good poke around. The popping sound could have been rad but the drip didn't start from under the rad. I did think water pump but am guessing Sam would have fitted a new one when he rebuilt the engine - plus if that had gone it would leak all the time surely? It's gonna be a head scratcher I reckon! lol

That looks great! Shame it needs to go in the car, would like good left on the stand as a work of art!

One for the Wiki I guess :thumbleft:

definitely get an upgraded loom off the chap on here, makes a big difference. You will notice a difference if you just go from a standard bulb to s brighter one, just no where near as much as with the loom too. I found quality/price is best to go for an not wattage. My VR had some 80W bulbs in. I replaced with 55W but this type - http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/bulbs/ge-megalight-ultra-plus-90-premium-bulb-477-x-1 - and they were much brighter. Add in the loom and they're spot-on ;)

Ok odd one this! Fuel was weeping from one of the two small fuel pipes that come in to the fuel rail. I replaced the clip which sorted it. When I first turned the engine on to check all was ok, I heard a popping noise. I thought I was just hearing things and worried about it no more. A couple of minutes later after stopping the engine I noticed this; After moving the car you can see there's not a lot, but it's definitely coolant; However, I started the car and no coolant is dripping. I've since driven home, I've lost no coolant and none is still dripping. The engine wasn't stone cold but wasn't at full temp. Could it have been from a bleed valve or similar? But then wouldn't it just leak all the time? I'm confused - anyone wiser out there got any ideas on this one??

Bet it was good to see no rust when the old one came out! ;)

I think it's easy to come out. John and Karren (Fonzoroo) on here did there's and said it was a piece of cake. I think they re-covered there's in black or dark grey felt material. I wouldn't mind changing mine to black actually ;)

Where in the UK are you Georgia? Maybe someone nearby has a code reader and can scan your car for fault codes?

It's worth buying a cheap code reader off ebay like this one - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Diagnostic-Tool-U281-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-for-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-/290987216944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43c0309030 You don't have to be a mechanic to use it and the codes are very useful in pin-pointing faults before you even get to a garage. You should get your money back in no time Wayne ;)

Car porn!!