Yandards

The G60 rad is unique to the G60, the standard non-aircon one is part number 535 121 251 B and is 430mm in length (core size IIRC) the other part number you have quoted with the 'C' suffix is the G60 aircon radiator - this is the largest radiator you can fit into a Corrado at a whopping 675mm (core) this is also the reason it is another 71 Euros. Annoyingly a quick search of the VW Heritage throws up this page: linky. I am going to assume this is a VW classic parts supplied item which they sell in Germany for just under 300 Euros including VAT, however Herritage are charging £310.96 inc VAT, so once again the UK is getting fecked over by importers charging the same money in pounds as items sell for in Dollars or Euros - fantastic :( Be cheaper to pay the rip off IBAN charges than buy it from Herritage - I really hope this is not going to be the same for the rest of the parts....

Nice but they need to get the search linked up to the Classic site. Humn what do I know I need that I couldn't get a week ago.... Oh yeah :)

Cheap as. Looks ok in the photos too so worth fixing but I suspect it will get broken :(

It's not the ECU relay. Relay failure is characterised by a sticking contact within the relay preventing any power from being transfered/made available to the required circuit. The ECU relay within the G60 setup powers the ECU which in turn provides a power signal to the fuel pump, if the ECU relay was failing you would not get the fuel pump to run and the engine would also cease to run as the injector open command comes from the ECU. Poor running at idle when trying to set the CO(0.7% Vol + or - 0.5%), idle speed(800 rpm + or - 50 rpm) and timing (4-8 degrees BTDC, timing mark on flywheel is at 6 deg and one at 0 deg) is not unusual. I would check the following: Earth points, gearbox to chassis earth, battery negative to chassis earth, coil lead to cylinder head - all of those tend to gunk up overtime and digi requires a good earth to function well. Vaccum hoses from TB to ECU and carbon canister - the one to the ECU needs to be exactly 1 meter in length and of the correct VW made hose, try swapping the 2 vac hoses over on the TB as these when fitted around the wrong way can cause some of the symptoms you describe. Next move onto the timing, the BTS will need to be unplugged to put the ECU into timing mode, you also need to rev the engine 3 times above 2500 rpm to activate this mode. You are looking for around 6 deg BTDC at 2250 rpm - the full range is 4-8 BTDC at 2000-2500 rpm. I would then tweak the idle down/up to 800 rpm. Finally try to get the CO to 0.7% by volume, you will need a gas annalyser to do this so your best bet is a decent local garage with the correct kit. All the other sensors (coolant temp, air temp, lambda etc) are all there to adjust the fuelling for efficiency and smooth running, so whilst they do have an input (notably coolant temp on cold start) the car will still function. Do not under any circumstances add extra earth wires to the sensors - it messes with the signals into the ECU and makes the car overfuel. Have a search on the internet for G60 self study guide, it will be in a PDF format and contains a lot of good information about how the various sensors work and what effect they have on the car.

Interesting on the Passat heater box, have you double checked the mounting points on the Corrado? The main reason is that the heater blower mech in the Passat is a lot better than the Corrado item as it lives on its side. How would the 2 x bolts that sit in the scuttle air filter housing mate up?

Newton commercial were good enough to send me a drivers side bolster out to try and see if it would fit. The answer is without some foam cutting I don't really know. The bolsters are very similar in terms of height and shape but the mk 1 item is wider and around 15mm shorter. I have emailed Newton again asking if they would be interested in producing the bolsters for the Corrado - if that answer is no then I will try the folks KipVR suggested.

Holy crud, he is lucky.

Yes it should. Guessing the only way VW will supply these now is with a radiator (but not a G60 one as you can't get them from anywhere except classic parts). Gruven item is good be beware that ally does transfer the heat a lot quicker, so that previous warm feeling you got when you lent on the rad elbow will now be a '******* hell that's hot' moment instead :)

Had a reply from classic parts, no luck with bolster from them :(

Nice work, I assume you will be adjusting the TDi dash clocks to make them a little more Corrado like? As I have run a B4 Passat estate for the last 3 years they are pretty solid cars and whilst the running gear is the same nearly all the body panel fitment etc is an evolution on from the Corrado in terms of manufacturing techniques, the dash as already mentions is more Mk 3 Golf than Corrado, the door membranes are the moulded foam type stuff, there is a lot more plastic on the underside to protect the car from salt and stones etc. Only snag is that they don't seem to be massively durable when it comes to tweaking more out of them - the turbos are quite weak and the ECU loves to detect an overboost condition and dumps into safety mode. How are you getting around the drive by wire throttle, I guess it's just a straight bolt on job, it does mean you can fit the VW cruise control kit (about £60 from the stealer including the stalk!) as a bolt on option, you just need VAG-COM to enable it. As for the cupholder, these were an optional extra hence the reason you don't see many about - they were also about £50 when you could still buy one. I have a friend who fitted the same conversion as this to a MK 2 Golf, it was very quick indeed so well worth the effort. As for the intercooler, the 1Z engine uses the standard G60 style intercooler in the standard G60 location on the Passat for the 1Z engine (90 bhp) and the AFN engine (110bhp).

It would be interesting to get a number from him so we can work out the relative costs. Neil, not emailed Jurrasic Parts but we could do with a long term supply solution really; it's likely any stock they have will be the odd bits that are left over and then we would have to try to get them to re-manufacture some new ones - couple that with the hassle of paying for the bloody IBAN fees and it becomes a pain in the bum. I know from previous use of Newtown that they make good quality bits and if the MK 1 item fits that would be the easiest solution to the problem. I will drop Thorsten an email just to see what his information is though.

Cheers Paul. I think the Mk 1 ones are not quite high/long enough. Have emailed Newton commercial to see if they are interested in producing some items for the Corrado and if I order a Mk1 bit and it's no good will they have it back. Will keep you updated.

Especially when I picked mine up for a lot less, yeah it needs work and no leather but at least I knew what I was getting into..

Got up this morning to find it wet outside :( Not chucking it down but enough it make it a bit of a plop day car work wise. Decided to crack on anyway so after a brief trip to Halfrauds to pick up some bits I started modding the numberplate. Picked these up in Halfords with the aim of doing something like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]45765[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45757[/ATTACH] Measured the new plastic screws, 4mm so out came the drill and a pair of 4mm holes were put in the panel using the remains of the old plastic lugs. Slight issue with the back of the plastic screw as it has a chamfer so I needed to countersink the number plate panel slightly. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45772[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45775[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45771[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45764[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45774[/ATTACH] Used the wheel arch liner captive nuts to give the plastic screws something to screw into. Trial fitted it and whilst it looked ok it also just look a bit too much like it wasn't supposed to be like that to me. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45755[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45761[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45766[/ATTACH] Some head scratching ensued as the guide sleeves in the Halfords kit were too small to just put in the holes in the boot; digging through my spares I found some grommits that are used with the door sill retaining clips - they fitted a treat and are also a nice tight fit on the Halfords guide sleeves. I also wanted to use a pair of screws to retain the numberplate panel in the middle area using the same technique as my first test - these will sit behind the numberplate when fitted so needed to be pretty close to a flush fit. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45758[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45768[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45759[/ATTACH] Quite pleased with the overall look, panel is nicely attached, shouldn't get water coming through into the boot and it looks like is supposed to be like that (in my eyes anyway). I also have the added bonus that I can remove the panel at will without needing a new one (which are only available via Classic Parts now :(). Rain was easing off so I wanted to get on with changing the heater matrix whilst the weather was ok, opended the passenger door to see a now familiar sight. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45762[/ATTACH] Some tell tale drips and a wet ABS ECU told me all I needed to know, the heater scuttle foliage cover seal was shot. Luckily I had already picked one up from VW as I was going to replace it as part of the heater matrix work. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45769[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45763[/ATTACH] During this the postman arrived with this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]45773[/ATTACH] Yay foam! So in an effort to stop having to keep mopping puddles out of the car I started replacing the passenger door membrane which was in a bit of a state. Cleaned up any signs of rust with the usual treatment of some Jenolite jelly and then painted with Zinga; bottom 1/3rd of the door had a good attack with some waxoil too. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45767[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45770[/ATTACH] First shot with the self adhesive foam saw it end up in a crumpled mess, used the old membrane as a template only to find it was too short. Finally ended up with a slightly ghetto looking door membrane but I have finally got the hang of working with a large sheet of self adhesive foam that has a tendancy to stick to itself!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]45756[/ATTACH] Final job for today was to remove the centre console and heater controls, got loads of pictures of what goes where but will update that little lot tomorrow. Going to be getting some practice in with the plastic welding kit that arrived on Friday, centre console is a usual late Corrado disaster with more cracks than a builders convention... Oh and the bloody sound deadening is still drying out...... [ATTACH=CONFIG]45760[/ATTACH]

Spent yesterday making up and fitting the other brake line that needed replacing - it's in kunifer this time as VW couldn't get me the OE pipe quick enough. Not a bad compromise, 90% Nickel and 10% copper - I still think it's too soft and I found a patent for the original stuff when looking for a supplier on the web, it's a very interesting design with all sorts of different metals in it and with a selection of layers to ensure durability and corrsion resistance. Anyway moving on, bumped into the VW parts bloke while picking up the brake line in Partco, he confirmed that the seat bolster I had ordered was no longer available. After getting annoyed with myself for not ordering any beforehand I set about ripping the Mk 2 Golf seat I had in the roof apart. A comparison of the seat cusion confirms that there is no way it is ever going to fit a Corrado seat even if you trim various bits. Next plan was to try one of the Recaro seat bolster covers I have spare onto a standard 'rado bolster - again the results were not promising (You can get new Recaro Mk 2 bolsters off ebay for £35). Finally I looked into what other items in the VW range might work, no luck. So it's going to be either canabilise a good passenger seat or buy a block of foam and cut it to shape - going to try the block of foam first. I was going to ring Newton Commercial today but failed miserably, they may well be able to produce some as they are making Mk 1 items. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45711[/ATTACH] This morning the priority job was to get the front wishbones off so I could get the bushes replaced, cue various amounts of swearing at the stupid plus suspension and 'what idiot put that sump there' issues that are only associated with VR6 ownership. The use of a 22mm spanner as a lever locked onto the 18mm spanner gave me enough room to get the damn bolt undone; when the car is built the engine is bolted directly onto the subframe assembly which already has wishbones etc on it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45715[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45713[/ATTACH] It was then into unbolting the front and rear engine mount so I could jack the engine to get the bolt out, front one is easiest and I can recommend the use of a very very long extension bar! For the rear one you need to remove the nut that retains the lambda and rear knock sensor connections prior to getting at the mounting stud underneath - again the long bar is handy. You can see just how much you need to jack the engine to get at the bolt, beware that the gearbox mounting bolt will restrict your movement so it is also worth backing that off a few turns. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45720[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45719[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45716[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45714[/ATTACH] I then had a go at splitting the lower ball joints and track rod ends, my balljoint splitter won't fit on the bottom ball joint and is slightly bent so keeps falling off the track rod end one. So that was one item on the shopping list when I dropped the wishbones in. Finally I bagged it all up around lunchtime to give me enough time to get the wishbones into town and back today. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45712[/ATTACH] Dropped the wishbones off complete with new bushes, rear ones are the R32 items obviously, went to Halfords and bought myself a new ball joint splitter and a new airbrush as my old one broke. Got back and started preping the old coil springs that I got (thanks Mark!) for a couple of coats of Hammerite. That soon went wrong as the new airbrush uses a can of propellant, I didn't have an adaptor so I could use my compressor. This problem was swiftly followed by finding my tin of black Hammerite had gone rock hard :(. Went back into town to collect my wishbones and pick up a new tin of Hammerite, got some smooth stuff in Satin black so it should be the same finish as the Sachs dampers I have. Wishbones were collected but they had not done the front bushes as they were not sure if they were the right ones, normally most garages have the complete car to check :) Prepped the coil springs and the first coat is on one of them however, the tin of propellant is icing up causing the airbrush to have reduced airflow :(. Not too bad overall and I have an airline adaptor on order so I can use my compressor. For a set of well used springs they are coming up quite nicely, no idea on the durability of the finish but it is being applied very thinly so should be ok. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45717[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45710[/ATTACH] I then checked to confirm that my new wishbone bushes were the correct item, they were so it was into the garage to improvise a bush fitting tool. A long bolt, a load of washers, a 36mm socket and some Fairy liquid soon saw me armed with all the bits I needed to push in the front bushes. Quite pleased with the result and very easy to do, shame I would need a huge socket for the rear bush to do the same. [ATTACH=CONFIG]45721[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45722[/ATTACH] Collected more shinny new bits from VW today and 100ml of blackberry paint arrived in the post, so the plan tomorrow is to rip out the heater matrix, refurbish the heater box and rebuild that. Then move onto tackling the rear inner arch corrosion and prep that and the number plate panel for painting.

Varies and is weather dependant. 16vG60 has not seen water since September last year, nugget could do with a wash and I washed the VR last weekend when I got it back home.

You can't get them new in that material, what you can get is some self ashesive foam stuff like they use on the mk 3 onwards in a 2x1m sheet. I have got some stuff on order from fleabay that is a 2m x 500mm sheet of 3mm thick self adhesive foam that is waterproof, so it will be the job, cheap too at under a twenty quid delivered for 2 sheets: linky

If you could get some photos of the mk 1 items and dimensions that would be brilliant Paul, it not I would be interested in the passenger seat from the rally spec raddo as a donor item :). Going to give Newton a bell this morning and see what I can get out of them, they should be able to tell me the dimensions of their cabby bolsters and I can give them some sizes for the rado ones over the phone.

Humn, interesting I had completely forgotten about Newton. Stripped the drivers seat of the VR6 down and had a good dig through ETKA comparing various part numbers to see what's close. I have also stripped down a Mk 2 Goof GTI passenger seat that I had laying around (don't ask). The Goof seat base is a 1 piece molding, however the 'rocco and early Mk 1 goof stuff is much the same as a Corrado in terms of seat base design, the MK 2 backrest panel is the same item on a Corrado so that is an easy swap and they are still available new as well. The Mk 1 item on the Newton site looks a little too chunky and appears to short of depth in the bolster - the mounting for the side is a lot lower that the Corrado which has very high bolsters. I actually think this might be the best bet in terms of fitment, although trying the spare set of Recarro bolster covers on the 'good' side of the drivers seat is not too promising. Might just be easier to give Newton a ring and see if they want to start making some new ones!!

Right, ordered one yesterday, drivers right hand one, and they are now obsolete. So given that most folk has front seats in varying states of repair does anyone still have a brand new one in a bag? The reason I ask is that there are quite a few companies around that will make foam bolsters etc from a pattern, no idea on prices but there is a German company that will do a production run in batches of 100. It's either that or I am ordering some seat foam that is 24" x 6" tube and making my own with an electric carving knife..

Not quite true on the master cylinder type as the LHD specification ABS is a very different set-up. However, ETKA (VW's parts catalogue) is showing the the RHD ABS master cylinder, part number 358 611 019D, was dropped without replacment in 2010. There are a few options browsing the internet but ATE themselves have stopped making the RHD ABS part hence the lack of supply, there also seem to be no replacement items available from any other manufacturer as a direct replacement. Euro Car Parts do have a TRW one that they say is suitable for a Corrado (VR6 selected but all RHD UK cars use the same ABS system), be worth giving them a ring first though linky

It's just not a durable as the Nickel steel pipe and I prefer the steel line, it's not like the copper won't take the pressure it just always seems a bit rubbish to me, personal preference only I guess :) Internal screw wise the main ones that are used to hold all the dash shelves etc in place are N 902 412 03. As for the 16v, yes it is but I am also waiting on a tensioning kit from RPM prior to ripping the engine out.

Yep, it's not too bad for access as the lines run on the passenger side of the car ok, you have to remove both solid lines as they cross over each other at the bulkhead end making it a right pain to get them out. Worst thing to fit on axle stands is an exhaust, I hate doing those and when you add in a drive that is on an incline it get really fun; best thing I bought was a highlift jack means I can get my axle stands to full height which really helps when trying to work under the car.