Yandards

Yep but the steering wheel is on the wrong side

It wont be available from the dealer even if you have a part number...

I keep getting a mk 2 twitch now and then; although I also still fancy converting a mk 2 'rocco in a 16v as that would be a very quick car given it's lighter and more aerodynamic than a mk 2.

Nice one Alex, good to see the wishbones fitted. If you wanted the wishbones leading edge crud deflectors then the parts numbers are 357 615 447A and 357 615 448A for the L/H and R/H about £5 each inc VAT, you will also need 6 plastic rivet pins to attach them with, 333 867 633 4FB a whopping 20p each (ish). They look like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]47197[/ATTACH] The 'ears' on the brake caliper are a different part.

It had more to do with the supplier to be honest, I ordered in February and it was only dispatched on the 24th of May after a lot of emails, shame as the parts are good and the items I have previously ordered from them arrived quickly. Belt routing was mocked up last night, all looks good and a rough guess at belt length comes back at 1600mm for now. Will check the length properly once its built up using the old string method but a quick flick through the gates catalogue shows a range of VW belts from 1550mm up to 1600mm so it will be easy enough to get one from VAG when a replacment is due. Managed to get the zinc electroplating kit to start behaving again after filtering the plating fluid through some coffee filter paper so cleaning up various bolts and replating them, quite disappointed really all of the bolts were new during the rebuild and the car has only done 1500 miles since then in the dry, aside from the coolant explosion over the engine bay, most of them are not looking good at all.

Looks likely, not even sure what the point being made is TBH. A certain Germany tuning companies belt tensioning kit finally arrived today, it is very well made but it would have been nice if it was here sooner. Few odds and ends on order from VW for the engine bay prior to engine refit and I have worked out how the new 'charger belt tensioning routing is going to work although I have not calculated the belt length yet.

and locked folks as we can't be seen to endorse software piracy. Thanks.

No worries, give me a shout when you know.

Feck off

Yep the impellor should not spin on the shaft so there is your fault. As for sheared bolt removal, is it flush/lower than the block or have you got some shank showing? I would always go for the path of least destruction in terms of removal; use loads of penetrating oil, then pump for the easy outs, you will need a decent size hole and try to fit the biggest easy out you can in there. Then whilst turning the easy out tap the back of the adjustable spanner (use that to grip the easy out) with a hammer to provide some impact shock to the turning force.

Need a potential passenger?

That is the aim right now, all achievable I just need to get my finger out! Should really take some pictures in its current state too :)

Long time no update. Mr Supercharged was up for the long weekend and the engine is currently back out and hanging on the crane, crankshaft bearings have been replaced, new galvansied and powder coated front console has been fitted and the new ASD(mk 3 diesel box) wit G60 3rd and 4th gears is now hanging from the side of the engine after a coat of paint. The engine bay has been cleaning up nicely and I need to replace a few brake lines whilst the engine is still out, although I also need to order some from VW! The tensioner setup I ordered from RPM is now finally on its way to me and I will mock that up whilst the engine is on the crane as it is a lot easier out of the car. Then its engine back in, head off(again) so I can change the stretch bolts on the conrods and replace the conrod big and small end bearings and then er, that's it engine wise aside from a spot of mapping. The electroplating kit in the roof is currently working overtime on the various gearbox brackets etc to get them cleaned up ok and replated and the aim is to take a week off work to finish it all off next week.

Heh, guess they need to ID them in the factory that made the electric mirror switch PCBs for VW. Had a mega geek out last night with reido whilst I was showing him the level of detail in the Corrado in Forza 3, we spotted the instrument surround cover caps are missing as you can see the screws and the steering column trim has a gap where it joins! Talk about accurate modelling! Still couldn't work out what market the car came from though as it has knee bar, speedo is in km/h, no side repeaters in the front wings or the front bumper and the rear parcel shelf does not match interior leather (black shelf, light grey interior) and thats before the mystery of the black headlining. I guess the car they used to scan for the game was not as original as it should have been.

Binding rears are less of an issue but binding fronts are a major problem due to the amount of heat that gets into the bearing and kills it. So unless you want to pay out for a front hub bearing replacement be very careful with a binding front caliper.

Heater matrix bypass if bust wont help but it is not the source of your problem. Sounds like either a stat failure or a pump failure caused the initial fault and it has then spread to the other component. IIRC the impeller on the pump is just a plastic one that is an interference fit onto the water pump drive so it seems more likely that this is no longer tight on the pulley shaft and therefore not moving any water around the system. Be interesting to see what the end results is!

Don't forgot for an alarm to be valid with insurance you will need to get it certified through a registered installer, this will cost around £100.

Alex, as you are on a budget then go for the Febi stuff, easily available through the VW spares site and not mega money either. It won't last anywhere near as long as the genuine stuff and fitting lowered suspension tends to increase the loadings on all the suspension bushes so they will wear out faster but the Febi stuff does fit and is not mega bad/nasty. Get some R32 bushes for the rear bush on the front wishbone as they track better, a decent garage will charge about £20-50 to swap the bushes over using your existing wishbones. I would also get some new bolts for the bits that look ropey and using the VR6 (and really late valvers) type of top mount is easier for the home mechanic to get tight.

How much for the windscreen wipers and arms?

Mental. Another great example of the VW group prices its varying model ranges for differing sections of the market.

Good luck sourcing them VW stopped producing them ages ago. Worth checking your screws are still tight as they come loose over time and that usually results in a snapped attachment point at the end of the handle. I would also recommend using some threadlock on the screws as well.

Another Corrado oddity, a quick x check on the mk 3 VR shows the items you need as you have found out.

You will need to reset the timing completely to ensure it is set up correctly. Guide on here, link Note that the ignition and CO are set dynamically at 2000-2500rpm with the blue temp sensor unplugged..

VW. Part number is 049 105 263 C

The engine is doing what it is meant to do when it knocks, pull back the timing and dump the boost. Who refurbished the supercharger? Check TDC as Wullie above states but I would use the flywheel 0 degree mark on a G60 as this is more accurate for checking the crank. More info on G60 specific timing and setup can be found in here G60s can munch the tops of the pistons and the bottom bearings (as with any forced induction car)if setup incorrectly due to the extra forces involved. If the knocking has reached a point where you can hear it from inside the car then it will be fairly terminal and it is likely that as you have driven it around since something has failed. First check the boost hose at the charger outlet for bits of debris and then move onto removing the sump to check the bottom end of the engine, a good garage should have a bore camera to look though the cylinder head onto the pistons for any signs of damage. It may be something simple like the crank bolt having gone but with the extra noise and continued use of the car it is likely that something has been on the end of excessive loading.