Yandards

Yeah behave or it's going to get a NSFW tag... :hitler: :D

Whoever makes this waffle foam should be fairly easy to find, it's not like this was a special material run just for Corrados and most of the cost goes into the cutting to shape. Anyone had any luck locating any foam suppliers? I have tried on numerous occassions but never got anywhere.

Jim look at this above first, I know 2cc's VR does/did the same thing when reversing although not as loud as you suggest.

Tell me bout it Andy, Its like some venting cut into the dash, bit of a bummer but it can be replaced i guess :ignore: Shame- i've got a mint early grey dash you could've had. What makes someone cut a vent into the dash?! :cuckoo: :lol: Rest of the car looks seriously mint though- look forward to seeing it in the metal at some stage. Presuming you'll show this one as well as the VR? Yep wierdos, it does look like quite a good quality job though. It is too nice to use as a daily and I guess the BBSs are the wheels that were specified as an option when the car was bought, seems a shame to change them given the originality of the car. Not worth doing much with it as given the mileage and condition you will struggle to find a 2nd hand dash without the sun bleaching and that's before the hassle of swapping the thing over. Be interested to see how original it is, you should have a load of angled foam shoved in the back of the dash centre console area.

I suspected you might well have a look at that one. It does seem to be in superb conditions and comes with all the choice extras, would love to get hold of some black leather for mine.

It does but at the same time the reduction in gunk coming into the heater system will help preserve the life, and therefore effectivness of the blower motor, a new motor also makes a massive difference in terms of flow.

Yeah have a closer look at the lip on the early car Graham, you'll see what I mean - it's very apparent on anything before 1990.... Yep, although there are no other dimensional differences between the two aside from the lip change.

Right just got back home again after meeting up with the folks on the road trip yesterday afternoon. Took them out on some of the more colourful local roads and I think they all enjoyed it, good to catch up with you all. Brilliant to meet up with some fellow Corrado owners without having to drive 1000 miles and spend £150 on fuel. Unfortunately I failed to turn my mini video camera on so I don't have any rolling footage but here are some shots from places we were driving through. For future reference we travelled from Forres down on the A940, turned off onto the B9007, left at Duthil onto the A938 then onto the A95 until Grantown on Spey and right onto the A939 to Tomintoul.

That's very good indeed! I wonder what the extra mileage from the Super unleaded can be attributed to? With the same tank volume and driving style, I don't see how it's possible personally, but I'm not disputing your findings, that's very impressive :D Super should burn slightly faster/hotter producing a little more power for a given quantity of fuel when compared against a lower octane rating.

Best one of the nugget and taken today..

My last fill in the G60 was with Tescos normal unleaded as they had run out of super. Filled up yesterday with their new 'Momentum' labelled 99RON, not sure if it is any more use or not but my oil temps are now sitting 6 degrees higher on an identical pre-super run so it burns hotter. The only real advantage of a higher octane fuel is a reduction in the tendancy to knock, unless your ECU can add a shed load of advance you won't see the full benefits of the higher octane stuff.

Said this many times before so I will say it again :) Poly bushes are ok on a track car that gets trailered to races, for fast road use fit genuine VW supplied bushes using (as already mentioned) R32 front rear wishbone bushes as an uprated item) Poly bushes do feel tight to start with but due to the fact they don't flex the rear beam won't passively steer and the front rear wishbone bush which need to flex wont and will wear the metal of the wishbone. There was a VW Vortex thread that showed the damage post polybushes but since their re-designed site launched none of the old links work. Finally when you have finished make sure you get it four wheel aligned by a place that knows what they are doing (you should get a before and after print out) that extra £60-150 you spend on this really makes the difference.

Pat looks wrong without the tache.

They mostly sell Febi branded parts which I think are the best of the aftermarket stuff. However, all the rubber bits don't last a fraction of the time the VW stuff does (12 months for top mounts, disbonded rear beam bushes in 18 months etc) so I would just save up the extra and go genuine.

Yep trading standard, assuming you have the bills for the work you have paid for and the car is still in the same state (cambelt etc) then it should be an easy one to sort out.

Brake callipers are almost a gold colour new, mix up some smoothrite silver and gold at around 50/50 and it should be about right.

Assuming you have a late bonnet...

Had a good go at the paintwork yesterday, attacked it with a rotary polisher and some G9 cutting compound. This was my first proper go at using the rotary and it took me a while to get used to the way the G9 worked. By the end of the process I had shifted a lot of the oxidisation that was coming through and learned a lot about the use of the rotary. Unfortunately it rained overnight so I didn't get to carry on with the job and had to pick off all the damp masking tape. Ordered some different polishing/finishing compounds to try out as well as a more appropriate selection of applicator pads for the rotary to use. No pictures as of yet as it's not finished and the weather is dire but I am reasonably pleased with the work so far, just need to get another good weekend to finish it off.

Nice one David, just watch the daily divert your time from jobs you were going to do on the valver though :)

Go with the F suffix Jim as you did not have a factory fit alarm system. You can still get aux gauges from ARZ for RHD if you are quick and want to pay the price they are asking..

That's just taking the p1ss, it's not that good :roll: The wrapping doesn't combust, it's glass fibre. I've never had any issues like that on my downpipe and it gets a lot hotter than a 6 branch ever will :D What it can do though is absorb oil if there's any leaks down there, and that can ignite when hot enough and cause fires. Leaving it exposed is fine, so long as you retain the factory heatshield. That is damn expensive. Wierd that Drew paid £200ish inc VAT for a 4 cylinder exhaust manifold (factory) but this 6 branch comes back at nearly double that with the VAT. How much cheaper is the slightly lower spec coating they offer in black? It gives about 25% reduction in temps but is aimed more at Civics and Golfs according to their website.

Thermal plasma coating is the stuff you want. It is like a ceramic coating but better, the testing carried out shows drops of around 30% surface temperature on a Rover V8 manifold under test conditions. As others have mentioned the more you retain the exhaust heat the faster the gas flow, this in turn will lead to more power through increased effectiveness of cylinder scavenging on the exhaust stroke. It's not cheap stuff but looks way better than a wrap and should last a lot longer: Zircotec I know Drew on here had his exhaust manifold coated by them about a year ago for around £200 for the coating in warm grey pics here, I don't know how much a complete stainless downpipe would be but I can't see if being a huge amount more. This is on my list of 'fings to do' on both cars, although I would love to get the entire system from cat bypass back done in Diamond black with warm grey on the manifold and downpipe.

Aerospace 303 protectant. Very high quality product, although not that widely availble. Another vote for Aerospace, gives a very nice even matt finish that lasts for ages.

Er, not very. Have a read of my thread in my signature.

Hallo, Crank shaft seal is a bit more involved as you will need to loosen the sump to get the aluminium plate that holds the seal in place off. Cambelt tensioner is self explanatory if you have done some before. Without wanting to discourage you but if are struggling with the guide I have posted up on page one then perhaps get a friend who has done some cambelts to have a look here and see if you can get them to give you a hand.