Geo

As I said I asked for one in GSF and the guy in there didn't know what I was talking about. Got a Quinton Hazel one in a motor factors, looked up the number on the box and it's QTH 329 (80 deg C stat)

I have a jetta TD for driving around in when the rest of my cars are broken :D (ie most of the time then :roll: ) You can turn up the fuel and turbo boost quite easily to give more power (and smoke) They are not exactly frighteningly quick but can keep up with the traffic and are very economical. Mine is capable of an indicated 115mph 8) pics: http://cars.vage.ie/invision/index.php?s=67b84fefe7f442940d03b36474198eb7&act=ST&f=29&t=5780&st=0

I couldn't get one of these in gsf a few months back. They told me they didn't do a low temp one. Got a QH one in a motor factors instead. I can look up the number of that if you want.

I've done this job several times to my mate's 1.8 16v over the past few weeks, (long story for reason see here)and I reckon the best way to do it, particularly if you don't have access to a ramp is just to take down the subframe complete with rack, wishbones etc attached. In addition to the list you have above you also need to split the balljoints. Take the bolt out of the steering column shaft with the rack in the car. Don't take the pipes off at the rack take them off at the pump and reservoir and take the whole lot down. Then it's dead easy to pull it out from under the car, swap out the racks and lift it back into place.

Suppose they can mark on the hub where the shock is bolted on and put it back in the same place again. But surely after replacing the top mounts you should get the camber set up anyway.....

This happened a friend's 16v corrado a while back, after he put in a new high pressure sender (old one leaked) the oil light started coming on intermittently, swapped it for a secondhand sender from an engine I had lying around and it was fine, new sensor was bought in gsf.

I have only had first hand experience of 2 Vr6s, one is the vento, which had the tensioner fail at 119k making shit of the engine and the other one was a golf with 100k on it and the top end was noisy when I sold it on. This suggests to me that there is a problem with the tensioner and that it does need to be replaced at around the 100k mark. I know the chains never snap, if I was doing another vr I would only change the guide rails, tensioner and tensioner pad I wouldn't waste my money buying new chains. The only reason I put new chains on the vento was that the previous owner had already bought them when I bought the car off him with the engine in bits in the boot. I'm glad your car is still going ok after 169k on the original chains, have you had the upper timing cover off for a look at the guide rail? If not then I would suggest that you are the one who is speaking from no place of experience ;)

And what Kevin says about cranking the engine over to build up pressure is spot on, also I find that when using silicone as the sole sealer between 2 mating surfaces that ordinary paint thinner cleans the oil and dirt off the metal really well and allows the silicone to seal properly. Also, I use a sealer called dow corning instant gasket, which is kind of like a super-silicone sealer. I got it in my local motor factors it comes in a white tube with green and black writing on it. Works really well for stuff like that......

That's bullshit mate check out the link to my vento vr6 in my sig to see what happens when people have that attitude :roll: Exactly the same thing that andy describes above happened the vento at 119k on a one owner car with fsh. And a vento is unlikely to have been driven as hard as a corrado. Needed new valves and guides and a complete engine stripdown to remove all the bits of tensioner pad. And just looking at the pictures of the worn one at the start of this thread I reckon it wasn't much worse than that when it let go. It looks to me like the lining is ready to seperate from the rivets at the top of the pad and when that happens it's only a matter of time before the chain catches the lining and fires the whole lot down into the sump, and then it's time for a big repair bill. Do it now is my advice, nothing good will come from leaving it on the long finger :wink:

I would be shitting myself driving that car with the tensioner looking like that. Could let go at any time and then you'll be faced with a big bill. Can you not get a lift/ take the bus to work for a week or so?

Oh that is nasty. Never saw that happen a spark plug before. I reckon you should have some comeback with them if you can get in contact with them.

Reason I asked if the clocks reset when the car is turned off or when it is restarted is that I had a mk3 golf once and the clocks used to reset themselves almost every time I started the car up. Turned out to be the ignition switch causing the problem.

Is it every time you switch off or every time you restart the car?

How about the fact that your alternator seems to have been removed as well dec? I'd be more worried about that tbh :D ........

Have you had the ignition timing set up? The cam timing could even be out a tooth has that been checked out?

New tappets can be noisy for a while until they get fully bedded in. How long have you run the engine for? When I rebuilt the engine in my vento VR6 the tappets were noisy for a few hundred miles afterwards, they are fine now though.......

Nothing like hitting the middle pedal at speed safe in the knowledge that your front brakes will work perfectly due to the washers you fitted to the system earlier ;) You want to throw in a few cable ties for good measure? :lol:

I know someone who tried to fit a 288 setup from a mk4 to his VR6 and ran into problems. I think you need a spacer or something as the carriers are slightly different to the mk3/corrado ones. I'd just like to add that I've no personal experience of this it's just what I heard. So something to watch out for.....

Yes.

Lovely looking car. Looks mint! Throw in a G60 now and away you go :D :-P

not yet you don't :lol:

The inner and outer bearing shells are different sizes. I can't really remember what socket sizes you need but I think it's something like 27mm for the smaller one and quite a big one for the larger outer one, maybe 34/36mm but I'm not sure.... @ kebabman, it has happened me a few times (though not with corrado bearings) that the old shell gets wedged in tight when you use it to bash in the new one, and it is a complete pain to remove when it does happen, so I don't take chances any more.....

Speaking from experience I've found that to be a bad plan. If the old ring gets stuck it can be a bitch to get out. Better off using a suitably sized socket IMO

Can't be done cos there isn't room for it to go in the usual place. The VR6 one is mounted where the standard airbox should be afaik so if you put the G60 charger there it would be spinning the wrong way.

I think to make the 16v calipers work you just have to get 2mm or so machined off the slider pins so the caliper can slide back far enough to clear the thicker disc with the new pads ;)